I have seen some Spitfire MkIII's with European plates, that have modified front bumpers. Does anyone know who made them and if they can still be acquired?

Found it!

I read this post because I was looking for this. Then found it in an old folder on my PC.

Does anybody know, are the outer edges of the floor parallel? I measure 46" at the heelboard

I'll try to get some photos but the engine is stored elsewhere at present

My Stag had a PI engine fitted when I got it. There were some fabricated mounts off of the GT6/TR6 bosses on the sides of the block.

I'm in the 10CR Test Event. Anyone know when the real one takes place?

The option is to the left of the text not the right.

I put the Stag into E by mistake rather than D. Easily corrected though 😎

Looks like my daughters are going to be having a mini-competition to see who can beat me by the most time! 

The injection gear will be of use to someone. But in that state, only as core for refurbishment.

I prefer the anti-rollbar, a car without one can lean quite alarmingly when driven at speed into a fast bend.

Police cars and Estates got this before the S came out, not sure of the date, my 1970 PI did not have it but my 1973 PI did.

I believe some of MkI PI Estates were rolled in the past. It was suggested this was because of the higher CofG due to the lead  & glass, although the narrower track at the back would also contribute.

https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2018/05/20/classic-car-owners-warned-risk-fines-thousands-no-longer-need

Thanks Peter, I tried to pull the two panels together with self tappers, but there was still a gap.

The top is easy enough to drill and plugweld, yes i have a mig.

The sides will have to be tacked from the outside I suspect, and then a grinder to recreate the seam, unless anyone can tell me a better way? I find getting access to the seam from the inside is impossible. 

Ironically, the Stag pre-production code name was...

           Stag   

Has anyone changed a rear valance on a MkI or an Estate? Would they mind sharing thier knowledge?

I'm wondering how to get a good (tight) join by the inner valance/boot floor and whether to replace the part(s) by the rear lights or to cut the new panel and seam weld it as there are two awkward seams? 

It's too big for C clamps and there is no space for 'skin pins', unless I put slots in the new panel.

Through the multi plug, are you sure that the lucar connectors are plugged in to the switch?

I had a devil of a job getting the inlet manifold gaskets to seal. This could be your problem area rather than the pump. The two rear gaskets are the worst. Definitely not Triumphs best design...

The root cause of my problem was that the inlet manifold faces were not "True". I realized this, when the manifold would rock in-situ before I fitted the bolts. I had the faces machined and used Well-Seal on the gaskets.

I had a devil of a job getting the inlet manifold gaskets to seal. This could be your problem area rather than the pump. The two rear gaskets are the worst. Definitely not Triumphs best design...

The root cause of my problem was that the inlet manifold faces were not "True". I realized this, when the manifold would rock in-situ before I fitted the bolts. I had the faces machined and used Well-Seal on the gaskets.

Thats the one, sorry Durite not Duratec

I use a small tub of "No-Corrode", used to be sold by Holts, but I think is Duratec now. 

Works wonders on bullet connections.

Personally it will always look a 'bitsa with a MkII bonnet.

Why not go for a MkIII GT6 bonnet and keep it contemporary?

Tight wad trick is to put a shim between the circlip and the U/J. Coke tins used to be about 5 thou 

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RX1389

I think so, but 2000/2.5 is 1" diameter, TR & Stag is 1-1/4" diameter. Also Stag is longer than the others by about an 1-1/2".

I think Stag input shaft is 1-1/4" diameter. The shaft is longer than the bellhousing, unlike the 2000/2.5/TR boxes to compensate for the length of the gearbox adapter .

I'm not sure how you can tell the difference (externally) from the Sprint box 

When you add the extra costs to changing the box to a 1500 single rail. Getting your OE box replaced like for like or reconditioned is easier and cheaper unless you have one already.

Personally I prefer the 3-rail gearchange. 

Quoted from iomgt6

and the angle of the wheels looking straight on are I would say camber is wrong the wheels splay in rather than slightly out it drives horrible, help, can you please give me your thoughts

I always thought the sleeve was bonded to the rubber, not a press fit.

The bearing should rotate smoothly, but without play in the sleeve.

(Willing to be told I'm wrong)