Richard B

Ok pm sent

Nice and methodical John.

Just to add over-tightening the sump bolts can also create a nice S curve in the aluminium bridge piece.

Either repair it by skimming or replacing. I think the after market steel bridge pieces are a better bet for a leak free life.

Thanks for the info. I've bought them.

Just had a reply from the vendor

Quoted Text

they fit 150cd and 175cd carbs both are the same these came off 175cdl

Brilliant!

Do you know are they for a 175, the listing does not say.

Does anybody know of a conversion to the bottom bowl of the 175 Stromberg, something that gives a non-leaky blanking plug?

(and if not, why not) I've found a Lotus site where an aluminium plug was sealed into the hole.

Why couldn't have Zenith brought out a plain bowl without the O Ring and hole for the later emission carbs?

Could the hole have a plate TIG'd in?

So a transverse system, knew there was a reason for Triumph to fit on to GT6 MkII & III.

Looking good, are you going to smooth that curve into a 90 degree on the MkII version? 🙂

I always use the rear of the diff.

Is it leaking from the water pump spill in the block, or from the inlet gaskets?

Is it leaking from the water pump spill in the block, or from the inlet gaskets?

I would not bother on a 4 pot, unless there are extenuating circumstances. But on a 6 pot or 8 pot, definitely makes starting easier.

and on a 6 pot there is more space for an extractor manifold.

Triumph 2000 / 2.5 same as for a Spitfire / Vitesse / GT6  

Quoted from Nick Jones

Other possibility is that the master cylinder piston is not moving freely and is not fully returning, which effectively reduces it's stroke.  Just had this issue on my car.

Quoted from domo

The barrel is marked 0 1 2 3 in roman numerals, like Toni says, aux is 1, ignition is 2 and start is 3.  When I turn back to 0 I don't have to push or anything like that, in fact it looks like the barrel can't be pushed, but i might be wrong, anyway on mine just turn right back to 0, and with the key still in, the steering will lock.  It is a leyland key, I suspect the car dated back to the mid 70's.  I'll look at it this coming weekend and let you know what is going on.  Thanks for the help 😉

LD Parts gets my vote for parts.

or you could fit a blanking plug and an EWP. You wont have to disturb the inlet manifold in future. Of course fitting an EWP leads to other work. (moving alternator, re-plumbing the  heater, wiring in aDigital controller)

On the plus side the EWP has other benefits.

LD Parts gets my vote for parts.

or you could fit a blanking plug and an EWP. You wont have to disturb the inlet manifold in future. Of course fitting an EWP leads to other work. (moving alternator, re-plumbing the  heater, wiring in aDigital controller)

On the plus side the EWP has other benefits.

and to confuse you even more.  Triumph used the larger T nut on 7/16"UNF which is 11/16" A/F  

The metric ones are after-market...

Just appreciate how much effort the Triumph Development Department went to modifying the body work to fit the engine and move the battery there  


Either put battery + lead cut out and/or and buy a battery trickle charger if you are going to leave it standing for a while. (not that you would)


I had a constant drain on my battery which was eventually traced to the all singing/all dancing pacet electric fan controller I had fitted. Fixed by moving the fan switch to the Davis Craig EWP controller.

I have a driveshaft you could borrow, but I'm in Surrey.

If a hub bearing is failing, have you tried checking for play in the wheel hub?

Also, if it is O/S, try swapping the position of your existing half-shafts?

Wire it to the input side of the full beam. As per OE installation.

The dip light is probably running it through the common earth of the light unit.

If you can get a single cable from a 2000, 2.5S or a Dolomite, that will have the fittings to take the choke light switch.

Not PI's as they have a twin choke.

A'Type was for over 1800cc
D'Type was up to 1800cc (Triumph pushed that up to 2000cc)  
J'Type replaced both types and is more robust.


I would not try fitting an A'Type into a Vitesse, you need a big saloon / TR type box. Can be don't but...

Small car box's (Vitesse, GT6, Herald, Spitfire, Dolomite (upto 1850) can take either D' or J' Types

(I have run a 2.5PI engine through a D'Type, but now have a J'Type fitted)

If you are going to do it, now's the time...  and yes I would say do it especially, as you say you miss not have a 5th gear.

Mike Papworth (UK) should be able to sort you out the parts to upgrade your existing box. Although shipping would cost.

You can have you existing prop-shaft shortend. If it was me, I would look for a Triumph D'Type or J'Type OD unit with as many of the ancillaries as possible and then build up a unit to suit. Vitesse/GT6 box straight fit, Spitfire/Dolly box a good source of bits.

Bear in mind the Mainshaft and the O/D adapters have different versions depending on what you have got, so get the O/D first.  


ps. just read your post, yes the OD is integrated into the gearbox. It replaces the tail-piece.

pps do some research and ask questions here before buying if you are no sure.

Well not permanently anyway, as the coil will be always live (resulting in a burnt out coil, and or dead battery). That's what the ignition switch is for.

If hot wiring then you need to either disconnect this wire or stall the engine to stop it.

4-pot or 6-pot?

If a 6-pot I can see the advantage of a hi-torque. Do make sure all your battery cables are good (power and earth inc the starter one). See if any are hot to the touch after trying to crank.

I've fitted them to all the PI's and the Stag. definitely makes starting easier.

I would say fit the wide ones and Chris Witor for the bushes.