Richard B

There should be three dowels.

Try James Paddock. What part number are you searching for as the MkI seats are softer than the MkII seats.

Nowadays I think you want MkII seats anyway.

If not a good machine shop should be able to source them. Bear in mind that it is not a DIY job to replace them.

Definitely a taper, If the pin is under size it can bottom out in the fork without gripping correctly.

I heard (somewhere about putting a parallel pin on the other side of the fork (horizontally not vertically like the taper) The two pins prevent the fork for twisting on the shaft and help stop the taper from snapping.

Drill into the fork with a 1/8" drill from the top of the Y.

Then use a drift to remove whats left of the pin.

Owwww   a Gloria  


"Between 1933 and 1938 Triumph made a large and confusing range of Gloria sporting saloons, coupes, tourers, 2-seater sports cars, drophead coupes and golfer's coupes. All these Glorias, apart from the final two models ( 1.5-Litre Saloon and Fourteen Six-Light Saloon) were powered by 4 or 6 cylinder Coventry Climax "


So we still don't know which one it is, or what engine it will have.... 😀

I know Alison is still struggling to get her details right before she can submit their (Ali & Bradley) entry.

Jessica & Stephanie (Team Fairy) are out on the town celebrating my nieces birthday with her. Hopefully there will still be a space for them when they have recovered tomorrow.

Managed to complete the entry on the second attempt, first attempt timed out...

I'm sure you will get in Dirk!

Keep getting the Leyland whirlpool of disaster on my screen "Waiting for..." 

Personally I would say get a D'Type, unless you have significantly more power than a OE 1147 Spitfire engine.

J'Type - 1500 Spitfire if its OE. Can also be fitted to late GT6  or with people mixing and matching bits Herald & Vitesse.

RKC0634  https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/adaptor-plate-rkc634.html?assoc=149113


ps change the adapter and the mainshaft and you can fit it to a 3-rail gearbox. (J'Type is stronger than D'Type)

Quoted from Martins Stag

So Mr Senior is suggesting I may like to participate in his Toledo  so next year may be my first year....

Good call. If the Toledo is not ready, your Stag could be the backup car 😎

Quoted from thescrapman

It is a faulty UJ I reckon,

I'm with Colin, sounds like a partially seized U/J in the upper or lower steering linkage.


https://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=145377RM

https://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=153049RM

Other suppliers are available.

James got someone with a Tig to repair my two broken brackets. There is one person at the Hants CT meet who can do Tig if you want.

You have to repaint the black on the grill though.

3-3/8" is 3.375 which is the same as a 2.5S carb combustion head (with low compression).


Can't see it fitting a 2000 unless with forced induction 😀

Quoted from Don Cook

Did you stop the leak? Float height needs to be set properly i.e. float under its own weight (carbs off and placed upside-down), then measurement set, not still fitted to the car and float propped up with a finger.

Yes finally. I had some distortion in the base of the carb bodies. A friend recommended "Blue Hylomar" as it is fuel resistant. A thin smear along both sides of the bowl gaskets has stopped it.

Its a problem in the Stag as the carbs are installed at an angle on the pedestal (about 30 degrees) so the gasket is always under petrol on one side.

I did check the float heights but the were spot on.

A fuel injection conversion is becoming attractive...

On old U/J's I think its 1/4"UNF. Try with a bolt to check.

I found for the Stag that I needed even shorter cap-Head bolts 7/8" as two per carb were bottoming out.

Hopefully this leak will now be resolved. 🙂

Correct, but all Stags have the CDSE with the top adjustment. As there is little space underneath anyway. As well as the emission requirements.

You should see the contortions required to get your hand underneath each carb to check for a leak! 😎

Ok pm sent

Nice and methodical John.

Just to add over-tightening the sump bolts can also create a nice S curve in the aluminium bridge piece.

Either repair it by skimming or replacing. I think the after market steel bridge pieces are a better bet for a leak free life.

Thanks for the info. I've bought them.

Just had a reply from the vendor

Quoted Text

they fit 150cd and 175cd carbs both are the same these came off 175cdl

Brilliant!

Do you know are they for a 175, the listing does not say.

Does anybody know of a conversion to the bottom bowl of the 175 Stromberg, something that gives a non-leaky blanking plug?

(and if not, why not) I've found a Lotus site where an aluminium plug was sealed into the hole.

Why couldn't have Zenith brought out a plain bowl without the O Ring and hole for the later emission carbs?

Could the hole have a plate TIG'd in?

So a transverse system, knew there was a reason for Triumph to fit on to GT6 MkII & III.

Looking good, are you going to smooth that curve into a 90 degree on the MkII version? 🙂

I always use the rear of the diff.