Richard B

Then someone suggested I clean and paint the the front suspension. When I took the subframe off I found some more rust, hidden away!

Also fitted larger Drag-Strut cups, as fitted to the later cars. One Track Control Arm bolt did NOT want to come out. Some serious drilling required!

Had the seats refurbished. Not new leather as I wanted to keep the diamond patten. Heater refubished, D'Post Vinyls purchased off of eBay. Chris Witor now stocks them, but I had already bought them.

Thought it is time for an update, lots of bits of jobs.

Windscreen in. Reuseing waist trim clips, as the new ones require drilling the hole larger. (I found some 1/8"nylon rod that I could cut to size). To fit the 3/16" hole in the panel.

If they have the same profile, that a good idea. I'll investigate.

I use Chris Witor. he did still have some O/S Front OE seals which have the indents for the original style clips. Unfortunately the others you get use   different clips and are harder to fit, but still work.

I have found these seals shrink over age, so make them as wide as possible when fitting.

If the dust shield is loose then then the collapsable spacer is no longer preventing movement of the bearings. If this preload has gone, this 'can' mean the bearing is spinning on the stub axle and damaging it.

or anyway, thats how I understand it.

Anyone have some hubs spare with knackered U/J's etc?

Grumbly/rough bearings are ok, but not loose dust shields. Could collect at Stoneleigh.

Reply here or PM me.

Yes to 2.5, but you might need a 3.63 diff as it does not rev as high. Also the gearbox will be more stressed if OE.

Cheers Colin, I'll take a look.

Do we have totals for how many cars started and finished?

I have a set of 15 wheel nuts Duh! I am looking for one (or more). Just wondering if anyone has one in their odds n' sods pile of bits?

They are 7/8" AF on the head, 7/16" UNF thread (Stag, Saloon or TR), the sleeve is 7/8" long with a separate flat washer.

They are sleeve (not Taper) and fit my early Minilite wheels. I have been looking on Bay of Evil but cannot seem to find the correct one.

If I put the anti-rollbar on a level surface one eyelet is 1/2" higher than the other. Also there is a slight bend 1/16" in the middle.

Should I ignore it?
scrap it?
Try to get it repaired?

Would anybody know what the thread is of this?

Interesting. This is the registration number in the Ashley GT hardtop advert. Is the roof still with the car?

Buy it, store it, can't find it.

Then buy replacement item, go and when you go to store it in a safe space; oh look there's the original misplaced item!

Hi Tim, yes. My point is I think that is a stress point on the Bodyshell there.

PVA'd and painted the underbonnet sound deadening material (NLA) and then riveted the support bars in place.

This is a horrible corner to repair, where the inner wheel arch, meets the inner wing and the bulkhead. I think this is a natural stress point for the bodyshell.

Just found this photo from June 2020 where the daughters helped push the MkI out of storage into the workshop. Yes, that is my Damson MkI PI Estate tucked away there. I know Chris Bottle will be hassling me at Paignton "When are you going to start on that Estate?"

Also showing the old inner wing compared to the new.

I also had to do some fettling to the outer wing repair panel to get it to fit better.

This was some of the repairs I had to do which meant taking the wing off for access.

Ringo the Dalmation

Yes to helicoiling. I usually find that the flat surface of the aluminium block that is supposed to seal against the sump is kind S shaped if it has been installed for a while. Probably caused by people over-tightening the bolts to try and get a seal! Some time with Wet 'n Dry or machining is required.

Alternatively buy a replacement steel one.

About 50 clips on the rear screen  and 30 clips on the front screen. Another 5 or 6 clips for each door.

Mostly used 19mm (3/4") clips, as they fit the lip better and alow you to keep the tension whist pushing the clip on. I used some 25mm (1") ones, but they did not grip as strong and were not as easy to fit whilst pulling the headlining into place.

It is very much an iterative process!

Bayof evil, search for Mitre Shears Multi Angled Anvil Cutters UPVC Trim Tube Gasket Moldings 45-135°

You also need some good (proper) superglue to put the two sections together. I think we fitted the pieces on the door and then glued in situ.

Yes fitted to a lot of Big saloons/Estates 1970-1973 with inertia reels. The Stag are the only ones I know of with the white surrounds (same era).

I was not aware of a known inertia version but it makes sense.

These people maybe able to help if you get stuck   https://www.quickfitsbs.com/about_us.php

Earlier photo's of headlining