mark spit

Driven this lots recently, camera pretty much just after the end of every dual section and another just before the start of the next section, there is another in the middle of the longest single carriageway section. They also have the speed limit set down to 40 average through the roadworks as you approach Aviemore though there isn't (wasn't) a camera at the start of this part, there are a couple within it, so if your satnav does change onto average like my TomTom then it could mislead through the roadworks section. Good luck to all. mark

Connect the DVM as before, unplug fuses one at a time and see which circuit(s)  draw the current with everything turned off. Might give some pointers on where to look. I had a duff alternator on an old 309 that drew leakage current when everything was off, It's French, c'est la vie............ Mark

Don't think it matters wether rack or roll bar nut as long as it's to the chassis somewhere, unless it's for concours originality. Yours Mark

One earth strap across the flexi joint, the other one connects the rack to the chassis, so under one of the rack U-clamp nuts. Yours Mark

Cheers for the info/warnings Jim.  :) Yours Mark

Ok, can someone tell me what time it opens for signatures? Cheers Mark

Hi, A number of NE Triumph owners are wanting to watch the RBRR pass through Northumberland this year, and give out supportive vibes.  Presumably the route is still up the A68, but I gather there's a control stop around Hadrians Wall, anyone tell me where exactly? Cheers Mark

And from a bit further down that document. This is the rule that allowed the Herald into Bond Equipe GT4S to get a sensible plate.  Basically an original 1200 Herald with 'bolt-on' components replaced ie rear tub and bonnet. Mark 6. Reconstructed Classics The reconstructed classic category is intended to support the restoration of unregistered classic vehicles. Reconstructed vehicles must comprise of genuine period components all over 25 years old, and of the same specification. The appropriate vehicle enthusiasts club for the marque (make) must confirm in writing that following inspection, they authenticate that the vehicle is a true reflection of that marque and that it meets the above criteria. This written confirmation must support an application to the local office. An age related registration number will be issued based on the age of the youngest component used. Reconstructed classics or replica classic vehicles built to original specifications using a mixture of new and used components, will be issued a Q registration number. The vehicle must have a IVA, SVA or MSVA.

It rerally depends on what you tell the DVLA to start with. Putting the good bits of the donor onto your current car, can't see a problem and you wouldn't need to declare it. Putting your reg plate and  commission plate onto the donor vehicle as it's all better than the current one is effectively 'ringing' a vehicle. Risky. But only if you told DVLA or got caught. At some point you'd need to change the colour and engine numbers with them as well.  Mind if you've got two identical vehicle types registered to yourself and you started swapping engine numbers and colours between the two they might notice anyway and start investigating. There's a points sytem when building a car from a donor. To keep the original donor registration you need a certain points total accumulated from the original bits. If you were to rebuild a Triumph from a collection of previously unconnected bits, then you'd end up with a age registration relating to the youngest component, or more likely a q plate. I've recently helped someone who'd ditched his rotten '63 Herald tub from a car he'd owned 20 odd years and replaced with a Bond tub (64-66). DVLA wanted to give it a Q plate but we convinced them in the end and it got a decent age related plate. Best way, just keep quiet (shhh) as swapping too much may well be frowned upon by the authorities. Mark

They clamp over the seam where that the door rubber seal fits over. Not bolted to the frame. Mark

They clamp over the seam where that the door rubber seal fits over. Not bolted to the frame. Mark

timbancroft61 wrote:I think the sliding joint should be at the rear. Easily accessible as well. I had a chat with the long time served bloke in a commercial prop place a while back whilst getting a new prop for my Spit.  The view from there was that sliding joints should always be fitted at the gearbox end to protect them from road spray / debris etc. The other was that original Triumph pot joints were rather poor quality...... Yours Mark