Freebird
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They look better on a Spitfire or a GT6 in my opinion. I took mine off my Vitesse and put them on my Son's Spitfire with only minor mods. It seemed to go a lot better for it too. When you advertise them you could say that they will fit a Spitfire or a GT6 but will need minor mods - gives you a bigger customer base.
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[quote=Nick_Jones] Then torque up the nut to the figure specified in the instructions, fit new split pin and dustcap. I also added a smear of fresh grease to bearing before final fitting. Hi Nick Resurrection of an old thread here. What happens if you torque the nut up and the hole for the split pin does not align with the castellations? Keep going 'till it does or back off? I guess it depends how close it is in either direction - answered my own question I expect.... Cheers Glen
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Thanks Guys I have had the flange machined flat, there was a 0.2mm bow in it between most of the bolt holes. No space for 2 lip seals Marcus, how does that work mate? Cheers Glen.
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Hi everyone. One of the diff stub shafts has been leaking for quite some time, so while the rear is apart to fit my CV Joint conversion, I am also attending to the leak. I fitted new seals to both stub shafts many moons ago and the one on the offending side still seems to be in good order having stripped it out, though I will obviously replace it again. I have got a feeling that the oil is actually leaking out of the joint between the diff and the flange - see photo below. The flange has been distorted by pulling on it to get the bearing off (by me I expect) so I'm having it skimmed flat. however, should there be a gasket in there? Nothing listed as far as I can see.
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Well, I got a Halogen conversion kit from Santa, so yesterday I fitted them using the £5.66 relay loom from eBay heavily cut about to suit the application. Seems to work a treat too, I haven't tested the lights at night yet though. Thanks for all the advise and happy new year...... Glen.
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Hi Wim Sorry for the late reply, but I have not been looking on here for a while. You couldn't offend me in a million year mate Good luck with the job. Glen.
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Waterless coolant is another option, albiet an expensive one. My Vitesse has a fan out of a Rover 400, it was the slimmest one I could find at the breakers yard and the shroud is a good fit on the back of the standard Vitesse rad.
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Fair enough mate.
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Hi Wim Being a cheapskate, I rebuilt Joe's overdrive myself. it is not terribly difficult and quite satisfying to do. I replaced the unidirectional clutch and the cone clutch, the bearings were fine so rather than risk poor quality new ones, I left them in. I got the parts from http://www.odspares.com/ for £163.20 including postage. They were very helpfull too. Glen.
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Glen's back, thanks for all the relpies.....I will take some photos and measurements of the bar at the weekend. From memory, the ends attach to the wishbones via holes drilled like the one Marcus has shown. The centre of the bar is bolted to the chassis behind the diff I think. It will be a long time before I get round to fitting it (if I do) still working on the CV joint conversion - the is should perk up soon as I've found some replacement VLs to get bored out to take the MGF wheel bearings. Glen.
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Hi I have had one of these hanging up in my garage for a couple of years waiting in a long line of jobs to do. It's NOS too. Has anyone got any expereience wiith them on a Mk2 Rotorflex car? Cheers Glen.
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What? a sucky sucky? good value I say.
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Nick_Moore wrote: I don't think a D Type overdrive will cope with the 2.5's torque though. A J type will. My D type has stood up to plenty of 2.5 abuse over the 8 years I've owned it. The gearbox is the weak spot I reckon...I never floor it in first.
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And do you need two looms if you have got 4 headlights?
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Hi Everyone I am going to fit relays to my headlights and have a couple of questions. 1. What gauge wire should I use for the main feed from the battery? 2. Is one relay for dip and one for main sufficient or should I use one per headlight? Cheers Glen.