Freebird
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Everything posted by Freebird
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They look better on a Spitfire or a GT6 in my opinion. I took mine off my Vitesse and put them on my Son's Spitfire with only minor mods. It seemed to go a lot better for it too. When you advertise them you could say that they will fit a Spitfire or a GT6 but will need minor mods - gives you a bigger customer base.
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[quote=Nick_Jones] Then torque up the nut to the figure specified in the instructions, fit new split pin and dustcap. I also added a smear of fresh grease to bearing before final fitting. Hi Nick Resurrection of an old thread here. What happens if you torque the nut up and the hole for the split pin does not align with the castellations? Keep going 'till it does or back off? I guess it depends how close it is in either direction - answered my own question I expect.... Cheers Glen
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Thanks Guys I have had the flange machined flat, there was a 0.2mm bow in it between most of the bolt holes. No space for 2 lip seals Marcus, how does that work mate? Cheers Glen.
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Hi everyone. One of the diff stub shafts has been leaking for quite some time, so while the rear is apart to fit my CV Joint conversion, I am also attending to the leak. I fitted new seals to both stub shafts many moons ago and the one on the offending side still seems to be in good order having stripped it out, though I will obviously replace it again. I have got a feeling that the oil is actually leaking out of the joint between the diff and the flange - see photo below. The flange has been distorted by pulling on it to get the bearing off (by me I expect) so I'm having it skimmed flat. however, should there be a gasket in there? Nothing listed as far as I can see.
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Well, I got a Halogen conversion kit from Santa, so yesterday I fitted them using the £5.66 relay loom from eBay heavily cut about to suit the application. Seems to work a treat too, I haven't tested the lights at night yet though. Thanks for all the advise and happy new year...... Glen.
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Hi Wim Sorry for the late reply, but I have not been looking on here for a while. You couldn't offend me in a million year mate Good luck with the job. Glen.
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Waterless coolant is another option, albiet an expensive one. My Vitesse has a fan out of a Rover 400, it was the slimmest one I could find at the breakers yard and the shroud is a good fit on the back of the standard Vitesse rad.
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Fair enough mate.
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Hi Wim Being a cheapskate, I rebuilt Joe's overdrive myself. it is not terribly difficult and quite satisfying to do. I replaced the unidirectional clutch and the cone clutch, the bearings were fine so rather than risk poor quality new ones, I left them in. I got the parts from http://www.odspares.com/ for £163.20 including postage. They were very helpfull too. Glen.
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Glen's back, thanks for all the relpies.....I will take some photos and measurements of the bar at the weekend. From memory, the ends attach to the wishbones via holes drilled like the one Marcus has shown. The centre of the bar is bolted to the chassis behind the diff I think. It will be a long time before I get round to fitting it (if I do) still working on the CV joint conversion - the is should perk up soon as I've found some replacement VLs to get bored out to take the MGF wheel bearings. Glen.
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Hi I have had one of these hanging up in my garage for a couple of years waiting in a long line of jobs to do. It's NOS too. Has anyone got any expereience wiith them on a Mk2 Rotorflex car? Cheers Glen.
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What? a sucky sucky? good value I say.
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Nick_Moore wrote: I don't think a D Type overdrive will cope with the 2.5's torque though. A J type will. My D type has stood up to plenty of 2.5 abuse over the 8 years I've owned it. The gearbox is the weak spot I reckon...I never floor it in first.
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And do you need two looms if you have got 4 headlights?
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Hi Everyone I am going to fit relays to my headlights and have a couple of questions. 1. What gauge wire should I use for the main feed from the battery? 2. Is one relay for dip and one for main sufficient or should I use one per headlight? Cheers Glen.
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4526 wrote:Have you tried to just remove the top fuse ? Then you can see if it's in the white or the green wires :) Great idea Wim. Joe has gone back to his place now, but I will suggest that to him. Glen.
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Nick_Jones wrote:Does disconnecting the exciter wire to the alternator make any difference? Nick Hi Nick I disconnected all of the wires, thay are ina single block connector. Glen
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Well, this has got me flumoxed. So, it's now being less intermittent which is helpful in that it's now playing up virtually all of the time. If you switch it off and take the key out, the ignition stays on and the engine will run as happy as larry. However stamping on the brakes stops it only for the ignition to come back on after about 30 seconds. Holding the brake down with a length of wood stops it coming back on. When the ignition is on, everything else that would normally be on is too - seat belt warning light, oil pressure light, the fuel and temp gauges and radio. I tried the following: 1. Disconnected the ignition switch - no change 2. Disconnected the alternator (engine not running) no change. 3. Disconnected the brown wires at the starter solenoid - no ignition at all as expected. So, it seems to me that the white wires to the ignition circuit is getting a 12v feed somewhere behind the dash that gets cut off when the brake lights come on. Heeeeeeellllllllllllp! Glen.
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892 wrote:Any news on the problem? Cheers, Iain. I have not had a chance to work on it yet, Joe is bringing it over on Sunday. However he reported this morning that it was playing up last night and the battery went too flat overnight to start it this morning. He even thinks the ignition switched itself on after he had put it away for the night! The radio, ignition light and seatbelt warning light were on this morning and he woundn't have put it way like that. Wierd.
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892 wrote:Hi, Does putting the heater blower on, windscreen wipers or horn cause the engine to stop after its turned off? Cheers, Iain. Not sure, but if they do what does that tell me? I went over to have a look and it didn't play up for me - typical. The engine was cold, so maybe that had something to do with it.
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1337 wrote:I have heard that electric cooling fans can act a a dynamo and produce enough current to maintain the engine running. haven't really thought it through carefully, though C. Not that Con, it has a standard fan.
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Thanks for the suggestions guys, I went to his place to have a look this evening and of course - it was faultless :-/
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Hi All I'm sure I have heard of this before and tried to do a search but to no avail. Joe's 1500 has started to continue running after he switches the ignition off, not running on, but running normally. He has recently fitted a new alternator which may be something to do with ity. From memory I recall something about the wire to the ignition light providing voltage to the coil and letting it run with the key off. Been wrong many times before though. Any ideas? Glen.
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4526 wrote: But then again.. won't it be strange that it is suddenly after i just changed the pads ? :-/ It's all very strange Wim mate. Can you be more specific when you say "Seems there is no difference when the hoses are both clamp or 1" Is it good or bad with one or both clamped? Good according to your message earlier. Try only clamping the other one.
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But marco, if the fault is in the master cylinder (is that what an MBC is?) the pedal would not be hard with the flexi lines clamped off would it??