OBE

As you are in derbyshire a good contact is peter burgess in alfreton. what you are asking for is his bread and butter work.

As someone who runs a dyno all day I found these tests really interesting. Also when I cut the silencers of my own Stag open i wondered how it managed to even make as much power as it did, the internal baffling looked really restrictive. I need to test some straight-throughs on it to get an idea of just how restrictive the standard silencers are.

TR7 inlet valves will give you the option of recutting the inlet head seats without having to replace them I think because they're 1mm larger diameter?  Might be a way out for you if you're struggling ?

I made the mistake of buying some cheap poly bushes off ebay, they were orange in colour but can't remember the name. The front track control arm bushes failed within a few hundred miles and the rear trailing arms bushes have no play as yet but are all split on the visible outer parts and I suspect will be an mot failure next time round. Ive since replaced the TCA bushes with superflex with no issues at all so far, the rear trailing arm bushes will get changed for superflex also. Buy cheap buy twice, should have known better !!

Just a note on this, ive stuck religiously to a gl4 oil but modern multigrade oils all seem to be gl5 .. whats the opinions on using a modern gl5 oil ?

I will be running carb body injectors with the std inlet manifold, simple but not as good as injector per port, but still gets a mappable system up and running. The TR7 based system sounds interesting. Watching with interest. My own project has stumbled a bit because the machine shop I use got as far as 3D printing my carb adaptors but haven't as yet made anything in aluminium for me .. so I'm still on carbs and mappable ignition only.

What ecu are you running Chris. Seems there's a few of us EFI-ing our TV8s at the moment 🙂

Staged injection would be nice .. possible to fit two pico injectors like I'm using side by side too, but I'm hoping that injector technology is on my side here, that plus the fact that the peak airflow of most stags isnt massive , so one injector per bank should be fine *touch wood*. And yes the Patton principle is employed, to be fair it's hard to think of any other way of doing a simple install .. it's by far the easiest in terms of machining as it utilises almost all the original hardware, just adds an adaptor carrying an injector. Whereas they employ quite a deep adaptor because they use a side feed GM injector I've used a modern Pico injector which is very short and of traditional top feed design and available is a lot of flow rate versions. The patton stuff looks to be very nicely made/machined. I'm pefectly prepared to eat my words if mine doesn't work as intended though .. It's also a chance for me to learn the megasquirt ecu a bit more in-depth than I do at the moment. I would normally had chosen my fave ecu the Emerald K6 but felt it was a perfect opportunity to go megasquirt for a change. So lots of variables to take in right now .. will let you know how I get on

Just had the first 3D print of my injector converter for the stromberg carbs .. a simple install to spray fuel at the back of the butterfly making it an electronic injection carburettor .. easy to fit .. will have to see how it  performs next year when I get the aluminium version through

Hi Richard .. always good to see people tinkering with the engines, though I am way behind flyingfarmer ^^ when it comes to pushing the TV8 ! 🙂 My advance table looks very strange being as it is a trim over and above the existing mechanical advance, however I can tell you that on full throttle I'm running around 5 - 7 degrees over and above the std stag advance curve, whatever that may be. My lower rev advance numbers are artificially skewed though because I'm compensating in the ignition map for an overly weak low rev mixture problem. Once I have my carb injection-converters on and the mixture is also mapped I will know much better how the true advance curve has been altered. Good luck with your mappable ignition, do you have any more changes planned ?

Yep Neil only 100hp shy of your engine haha! Going for a simple injection carb / wet manifold method. All the restrictions of the std stag intake I know, but should still give drivability and economy gains compared to carbs / fixed advance. Hope you're doing well .. looking forward to seeing what your next engine upgrades do on the dyno!

graph

Hi all. Earlier this year I bought a Megasquirt to go on my Stag, the idea being to eventually fuel-inject it. As a half-way house I've installed the MS and have it running ignition only. This is just a very basic install so far with only 4 connections : ign switched live, an earth, a signal from my Lumenition pick-up and a vacuum pipe for manifold pressure. No temperature sensors so no compensations, just a mappable distributor in effect. To further keep things simple I've kept the advance weights in the dizzy so I'm using the MS to apply a trim over and above the mechanical advance already in operation. I'm not too bothered about timing scatter from gear backlash / chain effects etc as the idea is to keep things simple for me, and anyway if I chasing the last 1bhp I'd have gone trigger wheel on the crank .. 🙂 So ..  surprise of the day was how much power it made as standard .. a frankly amazing 143bhp! The engine has 90kmiles on it and is completely standard apart from a stainless exhaust, but it's a pattern part not a performance enhancing one. I will post the graphs up tonight but after going through the ignition it made 149bhp peak and 5-8bhp through most of the rev range. At 2000rpm it gained 15bhp but that's more to do with the incredibly weak mixture at that point, weak mixes burn slowly so this was an artificially low starting power at 2000rpm. On injection or with the mixture corrected at that point i would have expected more power there beforehand. I stopped the first full power run at 5k in deference to the age of the engine, but later on , and with no issues thus far, I got a bit braver and started going higher. Hence the std graph stops at 5k and the remapped graph stops at 5600 regards OBE

The difference in the friction linings between the two clutches isn't a problem, probably just a manufacturer preference (the slotted faces may help vent gases given off by the lining if the clutch is slipped and gets too hot, just like slots in brake discs and pads do). The original flat diaphragm spring fingers would have required a rounded face on the release bearing. The new diaphragm spring is rounded on the ends so should have a flat faced release bearing. That's my understanding of clutches anyway.

Just a final word on this from me. The wheels and tyres arrived safely and quickly. I can happily say that the wheel judder has completely gone, I've driven the Stag now at speeds well in excess of what I've done in the past, or are ever likely to do again in the future, and the car was vibration free. Result ! Many thanks for the recommendation of Duncan at Tyresave.

Many thanks for the info given, I have contacted Duncan at Tyresave and ordered some Revolution 5 spoke wheels with tyres. Excellent , speedy correspondence so far from Duncan.

Excellent, I will get in touch with tyresave. Many thanks for that.

I would like to change the wheels on my stag and move from 14 inch up to 15 inch at the same time. I like the standard factory 5 spoke look and have always liked the similar looking revolution 5 spoke design too, so moving to a 15inch 5 spoke revolution seems to be the way forward for me. Ive seen wheels advertised for the TR range at ET 08  .. is that the same for the Stag also? Or if not does anyone know the ET of the standard factory alloy wheel. Alternatively if anyone knows a triumph retailer that already deals with revolution wheels and can supply me the correct wheels I'd really appreciate that. many thanks

Ah .. interesting call on the wheels .. my stag has alloys but i'm not sure if they're a stag replica or a reconditioned original wheel. I will spin them up on the hubs and try and see if they're running out of true when actually mounted to the car. Also the central hole is used (is it not) when the wheels are attached to a wheel balance machine .. maybe the answer is to have the wheels balanced on the car ? I've heard of machines that do this but never had any first hand experience of them. More investigation is required but thanks for the info about wheels, it never occured to me that they might be manufactured wrong from the outset ..

Hi all .. I have a persistent annoying steering wheel vibration that comes on around 45-50mph. So far the car has had wheels swapped front to rear, no change brand new pair of tyres on the front, no change polyurethane and rubber versions of suspensions bushes tried, no change. New front brakes (discs, pads, calipers) front tracking tried at a variety of angles from slight toe out through to toe in. I'm struggling now to think what the issue is. Has anyone else had a persistent steering wheel vibration that appears to be nothing to do with wheels, tyres, balancing, bushes, brakes, tracking ?? any help appreciated please :)

Thanks for replies, my engine and box are coming out this winter for other work so will make sure the carrier is in good condition and lightly greased before reassembly, cheers.

I'm interested in any answers to this also .. my Stag displays almost exactly the same symptoms .. The peddle comes up in a series of juddery movements if released slowly, makes hill starts a bit of a hit or miss affair for smoothness. Bringing the pedal up more quickly seems better. It's all perfectly smooth in operation when the engine is cold, or indeed if engine is not running (hot or cold) As my engine and box are probably coming out this winter it would be nice to know what bit I need to be looking at for a cure. cheers all

Thought I'd update this thread with my findings .. I bought new discs from rimmers and some pads too .. they were only cheap but I can't remember the name of them .. they were from rimmers too though. In short the braking efficiency is pretty dire. It's just gone through an MOT though and the tester said that the braking effort wasn't anything to be concerned about, but I have to put higher pedal pressures in than I would like to .. so I think I might either invest in some better pads and see what happens .. or keep my eyes peeled on ebay for some nice alloy 4 pot calipers and make some adapters up over the winter ..

many thanks for the replies .. time to start spending some pennies again then :)

One vote for keeping it standard then, thankyou