Spit131
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Or Phil at Road and Race in Shoreham Kent . very experienced !
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Another example .
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Looks like you have been getting plenty of practise all ready , good to see someone gaining such skills , keep your progresses posted Pierro .
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Yes , you are starting to get the hang of that toy of yours Pierro . Very impressive !
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No one is questioning the advantages of Marcus's set up John . I merely stated that just a minor tweak would improve it still further . We have all ready discussed that my wishbone is over engineered but to repeat it is still lighter than the standard wishbone and people seem to continuously forget that wishbone weight is only a small percentage of un-sprung weight so only small gains to be had there . However , lightening my wishbone is an improvement I could make as adding cross bars is an improvement Marcus could make . M
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You only need one wishbone , upper or lower to provide total stability of VL if correctly designed but even better if both share this load as stress halved between them . We know the chassis has flex but why then add to that flex in the suspension ? Yes a solid suspension will put more stress on the chassis but there are ways to then reduce the flex this induces , six point roll bar or even better 10 point . All depends on how far you want to go ?
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Clive , would you not agree that had Marcus added two cross bars between his rods that this would clearly improve stability ? such a minor mod for another gain . M
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I would have thought Karl could have fixed a piece of wide box section ( rectangle section ? ) to the top of the spring plate extending further towards the VL's and then wide bushed off of each end of this ?
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The only questionable feature of the twin bar lower wishbone such as above is that being seperate bars they give no added stability to the vertical link . If you were to use a lower wishbone such as Johns ( first pic ) you would be adding further stability . Johns version retains the radius arm but another option is to create a double point lower arm (second pic ) which means you no longer need the radius arm and I believe it gives even more stability . The last version you showed was Karl's design . It seems to be widely accepted that unless you impove the inner pivot point stability by , for say , making the bushing much wider or by triangulating the arm that the system would again leave the VL unstable . I can fully understand the desire to improve camber but you need to make sure you also get the most stability in the process .
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Don't forget there is a difference between a catch tank and an expansion tank , both do the same thing . The expansion tank is preasurised but a catch tank can run with no cap . Take it this is an expansion tank ?
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Impressive Nick , like everything you do . Thanks for sharing so much , so clearly with the rest of us . M
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Sweet , the growing hand pictures are a nice way to record change .
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Try Phil at Road and Race near Shoreham in North Kent . Bonus to him being very knowledgable , nice tea shops close by . M
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Hi , Not wanting to put a damper on things with all the effort you are putting in but I believe Karl decided to re-design his upper arms after consulting a suspension engineer . His intent was to change the inner half of each upper arm to a triangulated design which was to be double point mounted off the diff box in order to give the upper arm more stability as the single mounting point lower wishbone combined with the bushed tie arm allows movement of the vertical link . The leaf spring being a continuous horizontal bar held pretty firmly by the diff locating bolts did a reasonable job at giving the VL some stability but I think a single bushed bar will make worse the problem . I am assuming the inner link is as the outer one in the photo ? This is why I decided to go for a very rigid double mounting point lower arm . This should give such stability that the upper VL link is only there to give distance from the diff all though it is fact a single leaf transverse spring . Matt .