BiTurbo228
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Everything posted by BiTurbo228
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Ah, that's not great... Would fitting the bearing sleeves mentioned earlier help share the load out between the two bearing outer surfaces, or do you already have them?
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Bugger indeed! Any way you can pin it in place?
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Oh bugger seals! I've just ordered all the bits I needed in one go to save postage but forgot the seals! I'll probably upgrade to them in a year or two when I make my slant-4 Spit. That way I can use the GT6 hubs for that and the Canleys for the 6-cyl
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Now those are interesting. Just picked up a set thanks So between both comments I think I'll plump for a GT6 setup if I can get hold of some hubs reasonably should save me enough money to get those bearing spacers
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Hi there, Just wondering whether people would think it necessary to plump for the uprated Canley alloy front hubs (plus beefier stub axles and bearings) for a fast-road (170bhp+) Spit6/GT6, or whether standard GT6 hubs, bearings and stub axle would do the job? Obviously from an unsprung weight point of view the Canleys kit is far superior, but a recent spate of unreliability in the moderns of our fleet has forced a bit of cost-cutting....
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Brill thanks a lot I thought it might be a bit tight :S hoping there's just enough space... The design I have at the moment reaches down about 20cm from the inlet ports, and the critical area for clearance of the manifolds is about 13cm down.
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I don't suppose you'd be able to do me a big favour when you get the headers back? I'm trying to work out clearances for a long-tube resonant intake and the only way it might fit in the engine bay is to have it double back towards the headers. If you get the chance, would you be able to measure roughly how far the primary pipes come away from the head face?
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Excellent thanks FYI here's the info:
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Brill thankyou that should also allow me to guess how much a fibreglass door shell should weigh (money's on 4kg each)...
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Hmmm, perhaps a better thing to do to save weight (overall rather than much rotational) would be to replace the cast iron block that clamps the pulley into place with an alloy one. Would be fairly easy to machine up if you have a lathe as well...
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Not sure how well it'll work in this particular application but a mate of mine has recently availed himself of a Peugeot 106 GTi race car which has fibreglass doors (and similar problems of them pulling out at speed). They fixed it by affixing little strips of stick-on Velcro to the door and the shell. Must have taken a bit of trial-and-error to get enough Velcro to hold it in place but not too much that it'll stress the door when you open it.
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Which particular bit are you thinking of making? If it's the pulley/damper then on the long-stroke engines it's actually useful to have a bit of weight there as it damps vibrations...
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I wonder what the differences are...
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Ah good point, mine's a 6-cyl...
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I haven't seen them around before, but I would be interested if the price is reasonable
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Ah, I remember that thread. I think that's where I got that chassis modifications were necessary from. Good to know that the points of contact are the filler cap and the dashpot. Hopefully the Strombergs will help with the dashpot height (although I've yet to measure them). Will have to think of something creative for the filler cap though... Must try and track down that article. Big fan of PC
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You're probably right, but I'm fairly convinced that the logic behind not doing it is that there are better, easier swaps to do. And that's where the challenge bit comes in I'm already putting a 6-pot in my current Spitfire so I'll have done that already, and I want to put a Sprint engine in the one after If it all turns out to be a terrible mistake I'll be eating my words, but we'll see if carefully putting one together and a bit of thinking regarding some common problems yields something usable Oh, and for some reason the 1500 doesn't quite do it for me. Not certain why. I think it's because it's the obvious choice...
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Hah I was prepared for all of the 'but why not swap 'x' engine in, it's a better engine and simpler.' That kind of advice is good advice to give, especially to someone who is just starting out on their first engine swap. You could legitimately save them a lot of grief. Me however, I'm a bit more stubborn. I'm not really looking to make a Spitfire as good as it can be made economically (Zetec swap probably wins out on that one), I'm looking to make a Spitfire a little better than it is using as many components as I can from the BL/Triumph parts bin as possible and as cheaply as possible to make a 'what-if' next step on the Spitfire evolutionary tree. I'm also fairly confident that you can get the Triumph OHC to be both reliable and a bit pokey with a bit of work. Plus, part of it is that I can't really find anyone who has before (or at least talked about it on the internet). Oh, and I picked up an 1850 engine and single-rail 4-speed 'box for £50. That helps
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That must be another flier. I've seen a modsport Spitfire running around with an S2000 engine in as well so chalk up another mental fitment
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Just had a look and it is a bit of a wacky setup. Looks like single-point injection as well which isn't quite the setup I'd like to go for, but definitely might be useful as a starting point...
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I did not know that no, very useful. Looks like they were made for california so it'd probably be pretty emissions-centric. Might be able to use a couple of bits and pieces though. A manifold with injector bungs would certainly save a lot of faffing around making my own one
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Wikipedia (the font of all the worlds most accurate knowledge) has the ecoboost 3 down as 97kg dry, but whether that includes ancillaries and the turbo I'm not sure. Based on cross-referencing the weights I have for ecoboost V6s with ehat Wikipedia says I'm inclined to believe that is including ancillaries. I've got the Zetec Sigma down as 102kg though so there's really not much in it, and they are phenomenal engines...
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Gotcha. Hoping I can avoid that with either low-profile Strombergs or cobbled together injection... Bloody hell that must be quick. I do have a rather far-fetched plan of putting a Saab B202 turbo into a GT6 (chosen because it's descended from the Triumph Slant 4, so it flies for the 'in the family' engine swap rule I have). Should give a Cossy Spitfire a run for its money
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I would have thought a megasquirt could get it to run. Maybe without the finesse of the tailored ford management, but that would only be a matter of time and calibration. Unless it's something to do with the direct injection... One other consideration with a 3-cyl is that the power strokes are quite far apart so each would put a shock through the drivetrain. Would be a bit harsher on things like gearboxes and diffs. A type 9 would probably be alright for mid-power. Subaru or sierra diff in the back though?
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Interesting. Not just dodgy 70s triumph engines with a bit of a reputation I wonder what it is that fails on them. It was a bit of a risk pitting such a high hp/l engine into a car driven mostly by people who wouldn't know an oil dipstick if it hit them in the face...