BiTurbo228
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Everything posted by BiTurbo228
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Oh cool i'll see if i can swing by one of the watering holes It's mainly because i quite like keeping it in the family engine-swap wise. I've got nothing against non-triumph engines in triumphs at all, just that i like the added challenge A 3-pot ecoboost would be excellent seems like it's made for little sportscars like spits. Just need to wait til the latest batch of fiestas start ctopping up in breakers yards then you're good to go Still need to find out how much the little ecoboost weighs actually. I've got a bit of a spreadsheet of engines with weights, power, bmep, max known displacement etc.
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Yeah i've seen that. Must be bloody quick do you know if they had to put bulges in the bonnet?
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Ah cool a sprint engined gt6 will be my project after this one. I've spotted the oil filter problem, and got bits for a filter relocation priced up. I've also got a set of stromberg cd175s which are a little lower profile than the SUs which are on it at the moment so that mighy help with clearance. Need to measure how much though actually. If they still don't clear i'll try and do a budget efi system by pinching one from a scrapyard and adapting it
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It's mainly out of curiosity. I'm fairly certain they planned to make it either alongside or instead of the 1500 and i want to see what such a car would be like. It can also be done quite cheaply, which after my current project will be quite welcome I'm also fairly certain i can get a reliable 115bhp from one if i rebuild it with care, and do things like have a proper expansion tank above the level of the engine. I also had it pegged as 2-3kg heavier than the ohv 4. I'll stick mine on a set of scales to verify that though
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I'd heard that they had fitted some slant engines to experimental spits, but didn't know there were pics. Shall do some searching
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Exactly what I wanted to hear I was thinking of fabbing a tubular exhaust which should help with the suspension turret and the chassis clearance.
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Pretty much what it says on the tin. I'm looking to fit a Slant 4 1850 to a Spitfire as my next project. I've got my hands on a galvanised chassis which would form a great base for the project, but if I go around hacking into the crossmember as I've heard you need to for Sprint/Slant engine conversions then there's not really much point in it being galvanised to start with... Just wondering really what the fouling points are when putting one in.
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Thanks would be very interesting to see what you've got. I hadn't thought of modifying the chassis to suit...
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Nice! Relatively new to this forum so this one slipped me by. Do you have a picture of what you did for the Subaru diff backplate? I've got one of my own that I'll be fitting at some point down the line, but not sure how to go about it...
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Gotcha. When I come round to doing it I'll see if I can take some measurements or borrow a set to trial-fit. Actually, just seen a set of 3 Stromberg 175s on eBay for £15! Might pick them up and do some measuring plus, they should be good for the 115bhp I'm looking for (according to a thread by our good friend Gareth T the 150s top out at about 105bhp...)
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Ah that might be an idea. Shall give that a google... Would you shorten the top of the dashpot or the bottom? I suppose the top would be easier to rethread. Shall have to do some research. Those Strombergs might just do the trick though. I'll see if I can cheaply source a pair. How do they compare to SUs? Maintenance and performance-wise...
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Just a quick thing that popped into my head. After my (rather expensive) Spit6 project I plan on doing a much more basic engine conversion on another Spitfire using an 1850 slant-4. Looking at the engine and reading around it looks like the dashpots would foul on the bonnet, meaning you'd need to put unsightly bulges in it (works on Elans but less so on Spits for some reason, not sure why). However, I read somewhere that for HS6s there are two different heights of dashpots, a standard one and a low-profile. Does anyone know if there's a similar thing for HS4s from another car? Can't seem to find any info online...
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Yeah I was thinking of bending a tube up. Clearance on the inner wheelarch would be marginal I was thinking, especially with a filter. Can't do any of that til I lower my PI inlets though. Need to make them level so the injectors clear the bonnet. Oh, and weld on some bonnet mounts because I wasn't a fan of the stock ones...
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Nice i've got to start playing with my tig welder so i can extend my inlet trumpets. I'm doing tuned length ones either 15mm longer or 290mm longer to get different resonances. Might be tricky to get the 290mm ones in the engine bay though...
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Definitely. Apparently the difficulty with that is finding a Scooby diff with an LSD in it. I've read around about people buying up diffs that were advertised as LSDs that turned out to be open when they got them. Def ask for a picture of the internals before sending your hard-earned to anyone... Also, most have viscous LSDs (which IIRC only work with one driveshaft longer than the other, although I don't know where I pulled that piece of information from). However, my favourite people at Quaife have a torsen LSD listed for a 2000 Subaru Impreza which is an R160. Will be interesting to know whether I'm right or wrong with the viscous driveshaft length thing... When you do come to swap one in, make sure you post up how you sorted the rear plate/mounting bracket. There's a chap in Aus who made up a batch of alloy rear plates with the Triumph mounting brackets cast in but I think they're all sold. I was thinking that I've got some 3mm plate, a hammer and a welder and that with those tools you can make most things
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Yep weighed one that I got off eBay as part of stockpiling for future projects. Subaru R160 (the one without flanges): 26kg If you're weighing up for a conversion you'll need a modified backplate and a bracket to fit between the diff and chassis at the front end (oh, and another bracket to attach the leaf spring to). All of which I don't have...
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I was as surprised as you are, so I checked it 3 times to make certain. Even went and got a flat board to put under the scales to make sure it wasn't uneven ground giving a funny reading. All I can think of is either heavier internals on the 3-rail. Either that or the single rail having an alloy bellhousing. Forgot to check on mine, although I'll do that this evening... Agreed. I'll need to put it back together very carefully, and check the condition of the cwp to make sure it's not damaged. On the plus side I've got a 3.89 which from reading around seems to be slightly less fragile than the 3.27, for whatever reason. I've also read something about the earlier diffs having slightly beefier bearings (but weaker carriers, which I'll replace with the Quaife unit). Seems like a recipe for a strong small-chassis diff, unless I've got my facts mixed up...
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Yep just the LSD unit. When I pull my diff apart I'll get the weight of an open diff centre. All I hear about them is that they're expensive, but well worth the money. Seemed like a no-brainer
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If you've got access to a lathe it should be pretty easy to machine the superflex bushes down to 21.1mm OD...
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Brand new goody in the post, so first thing to do (after gawping at it and shaking the moths from my wallet) is weigh it Quaife ATB LSD for a Spitfire/GT6/Marina*/Caterham: 4.515kg *how many Marinas do you think are fitted with helical LSDs...
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Gotcha. I'm guessing the Spit backplates would need a plate welding on then new holes drilling which would probably require precision beyond what I can economically do at home.
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That's what I was wondering. Curious as to whether the smaller shoes (and springs) would clear the rotoflex hub if they're different. I think it might be a moot point actually given that I've just remembered I sold my Spit rear end to a chap who rebuilds them :S Just priced up both using new parts from various places and there's only £33 in it. Not really worth the effort modifying Spit drums for that...
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Just wondering if it would be possible to fit Spitfire drums onto a rotoflex hub. Might seem odd, but I've already got a set of Spit drums, the rears don't do a great deal of braking and it'll help with my unsprung weight (especially with alfin drums if I shell out for a set). If not, I'd need to procure a set of rotoflex drums from somewhere.
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Just as well I got an alloy backplate for mine then! Mine's originally a 2500S engine with a PI head. I suppose that's why the sump on mine was canted as well. I hadn't thought about using the frog of a brick as an anvil. Clever. I just heated mine up with oxy-acetylene and hit it with a hammer then checked for clearance and repeated...
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As far as I can tell the only concession that needs to be made when fitting a 2.5 is you have to use the GT6 sump and knock out some channels in it for clearing the longer-throw crank. Or you can cut and weld the 2.5 sump to clear the crossmember. Other than that they're a straight-swap