BiTurbo228
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Everything posted by BiTurbo228
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Yeah I've got the CC conversion for my Spit 6, I was thinking of having an experiment with my next Spit project. The uprights are cast, but from what I understand they're cast steel which can be welded quite readily (provided you pre-heat it slowly to prevent cracks between hot and cold bits). It's the old and abused bit that I'm concerned about, given that I'm using old parts and plan on doing a bit of abusing myself....
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I've been thinking recently about trying to make my own trunnion conversion. Partially because I just like making things and partially because I'm a tight b*stard I've just picked up a set of 3 GT6 uprights from eBay for experimentation, so I thought I would test out some thoughts. It's my understanding that the weak point on the trunnioned uprights is the threaded part itself, no? I'm assuming it snaps at the end of the threaded section. So, the plan would be to make up a threaded sleeve with either a 1" or 3/4" OD to thread over the trunnion bolt, with an unthreaded section to butt up against the vertical link where it would then be welded in place. A rose joint would then go over this (butting up against a shoulder machined/welded onto the sleeve?). The rose joint would then need to thread into/onto a block that would bolt into the wishbone. The issues I can forsee so far are that there's very little clearance between where the block needs to go and the base of the shock, meaning you wouldn't be able to get a locknut on there. This means that you would either need to move the spring/shock mount to above the wishbone (or the block below) meaning you'd need adjustable shocks to lower it back down again, or move it forward meaning you'd need adjustable wishbones up top to sort the camber. Just being able to purchase a carrier from Canleys would probably sort the above, but they've got their own (fixable) design issues. Thoughts? Waste of time? (probably) Interesting thought experiment? (definitely) When will I actually get round to trying it? (judging by how I accumulate projects, likely when I retire - for info I'm 25....)
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Haha! I do like it when things line up perfectly personally I'm hoping that when Saab re-designed the slant-4 to make the B engine they didn't bother re-designing the bellhousing bolts so I can hook up an LT77 to one of those. Good to know about the clearance on the bellhousing and the need to use a concentric slave.
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Looking good so did the 2600 engine plate bolt up to the Triumph block or did you modify a Triumph one? I'm assuming that the welded section fouled with the chassis. What's the reasoning behind the concentric slave? Just wondering if it's a necessity or if I decide to do it I could use the 2600 clutch mechanism...
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I meant for the Sprint ones as they're ET35 or somesuch...
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Very interesting. Exactly the same a Dolly Sprint alloy (although you've got to factor in the weight of spacers for those if fitting to a Spit or GT6)
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Thanks now that's more like it. So four a built up fibreglass door we've got door + handles and hinges = 9.6kg. Door glass = 3kg Winder mechanism = 1.2kg Trim = 1kg? So that's 22kg +/- extra weight for the quarterlight vs 14.8kg for fibreglass. Much better! Now I don't feel nearly so bad shelling out for them
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I'd completely missed that! Too close to the end of the working day If you could that would be fantastically helpful despite having two Spitfires in bits I don't have those particular bits anwhere near the state they need to be in... Very interesting. I like the idea of ally plate for hinges. Would give me motivation to try the TIG welder again...
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Gotcha. There goes the hope that I'd save ~9kg per door! If you have a spare moment that would be very helpful
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Hmmm, getting confused now. Bob Dunn says here that 'standard doors are approx. 17.45kg' but not certain whether that's Vitesse or Spit doors... [Sorry, link no longer available] Also, something my google-fu is failing me on. JohnD's Silverback & Son thereof...Spitfire or Vitesse?
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Well, £160 later and I've got myself a set of fibreglass doors. Can't say I'm overly chuffed however. Weighed one and it came in at 9.6kg complete with hinges, door handles, external latch thingy and 2.5 sheets of sound deadening. Considering that earlier in this thread we ascertained that a bare steel door shell is 9.5kg that's not quite the weight saving I was hoping for. At work at the moment so I can't strip it and find out what the shell alone weighs, but hinges are 400 grams, and the latch plus doorhandle should be about a kilo combined (maybe). That leaves a total weight saving of roughly 2kg per door. I'll have another look tonight to see if the doors are bulletproof-thickness fibreglass...
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Hmmm, that's got me thinking. I've got a set of Canley 4-pots (although the eBay ad said they were leaking fluid past the seals) and a set of vented GT6-type calipers on some sort of vented disc (haven't had a close look at them yet). I've also got a mate with 3 106 GTis so he has quite a large stock of front discs if they're the ones you use (and maybe a spare set of hi-spec 4-pots for those too) I'll have 15" MGF wheels going on so they should clear bigger discs. What's the setup for the Citroen/Peugeot discs?
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Well with that cam it pushes the peak down to around 5000 so good guess! It's more a happy coincidence that that's a nice place for the resonance to be
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Well, according to a couple of different calculations the resonance should peak between 5250 and 5500rpm which is a nice place for it to be. Probably still around when peak power hits for a 2.5l. That all changes if it's a different overlap cam to the stock TR6 though...
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Ooh that looks very nice! Do you know how long they are and I can have a go at calculating what rpm you'll get resonance charging at
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That's what I was thinking, just a tubular version of the stock wishbone with adjustability with one eye on a threaded rod I'll have a play around and see what I can come up with
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I've been thinking about adjustable wishbones for a while actually. I've got some tubing left over from my a-arm ones and I've just bought some materials to make a jig. I've got another Spitfire coming on Tuesday (yay!) that has rotoflex already fitted so I can use the wishbones there to make the jig. Edit: scratch that, I've found some threaded rod for rod ends. I'll order that and see if I can make up a test pair
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Drat, just missed out on a TR7 manifold on eBay which looks to be the easiest way of doing it. No need to open up the inlet tract for a wider carb, can use my CD175s and from reading about swaps going the other way should bolt straight onto the manifold
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Rubber blocks between manifold and carb? Oh dear, best look closer at some parts diagrams :S Thanks for the tip on the TR7 manifold, and the Sprint short SUs. As it'll be a bit of a budget build and I've managed to get 3 CD175s and a ton of random parts for £30 I'll try them first. If fuelling is an issue I'll switch to the SUs for the greater availability of needles
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Should be more specific, I've got a set of Stromberg CD175s that I'd like to fit to an 1850 Slant 4 that's currently fitted with SUs. It'll be going in a Spitfire eventually, and my thinking was that the lower profile Stombergs might provide just that little bit of extra clearance to mean I don't have to put bulges in the bonnet. If they fit on a Stromberg manifold then that works too as there's one on a well known auction site at the moment
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Huh. How odd. I wonder if it was a widespread thing or just BL cost-cutting...
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Curious. I wonder if it was simply a Leyland cost-cutting exercise or whether that was something that was done by other manufacturers at the time. Seems silly to have a cast iron manifold mating straight to an alloy head with differing thermal expansion rates. Oh, and incase anyone was wondering I weighed my 2600 I6 and it came to 196kg fully dressed. A little heavier than the 183kg Triumph OHV I6, but bigger dimensions will do that even with an alloy head...
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That'd be brilliant if you can speak to people who might have experience with improving the output of them. I'm convinced that there's a ton of untapped potential in there but no-one seems to have tried it (and written about it on the internet at least). I do have it pegged at 151bhp @ 5250 and 160lb-ft @ 3800 before it was restricted but lord knows where I got that info from. Looking at chamber shape and valve sizes it should have more potential than the OHV 6. 42mm inlet valves as standard sound very nice apparently it's got a high quality crankshaft stock as well which should mitigate some of the issues with a 4-bearing bottom end. Oh, and on AROnline they talk about prototypes with an 82mm bore to make it a 3.0l pistons might be trickier to find though as they're a semi-Heron head. Issues I know of (only from reading about them mind you) are cams seizing in the head because the oil supply gets gunked up in a pressure relief valve between the block and the head. My thinking is just whip out the valve. Might burn a bit more oil, but that's less of a problem for older cars that don't need to pass emissions tests. I also gather there's no gasket between the head and the exhaust header which is a bloody stupid idea. Easily rectified though. Apologies for the thread drift...
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Hmmm, there's a possibility that they kept the same mounting bolt points for the 2300/2600 as the OHV Triumph 6 which it's (incredibly) loosely based on. Would be odd if they did, but definitely a possibility. I'll see if I can pull out my alloy rear plate and offer it up to the 2600 engine I have lying around. Would be interesting to find out, if only for curiosity's sake
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Couple more goodies Canley's alloy water pump: 1.045kg Canleys adjustable front wishbones (per side): 1.136kg