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timireson

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Everything posted by timireson

  1. Could u post the pic? I'm about to do brake lines and would be helpful. Thanks tim
  2. Canleys. Thnk sell them, they mentioned them when I was rderng my parts theatre day. Tim
  3. Yes I do. But I need to find his name I think it's solar windscreens. I've not use him yet. But my mg mechanic always uses him when he restores a car as its too fiddlely especially with a new paint job. Let me know if wrong name and ill call him. Tim
  4. Thanks Will help when I  Start rebuilding!!! Soon hopefully. Tim
  5. My chassis is returning this weekend and the rebuild will begin. Mine is a mk3 an will have Konis all round. I have the conversion kit to make them chassis mounted. Ill let u know how it goes. Tim
  6. hi has anyone used this? Rotoflex Telescopic Damper Conversion Kit from moss? it seems like a good idea, coud then get the whole suspension build up before the body goes back on. is £109 each for koni adjusyable standard shocks a good price? struggling to find what i need, as no one seems to use the same part numbers. any help/guidance gratfuly received as im getting out of my depth now. t
  7. thanks for the info. Think konis might be the way forward then. Im going to do the CV conversion from canleys, will the shocks required be the same (its a rotoflex)? finding it difficult to find somewhere that sell the koni shocks for the rear for the rotaflex? assuming they are different for the swing spring setup. any one know who can still supply them? even rimmers dont have them. tim
  8. Ops it's an early mk 3 if that info is needed Tim
  9. Hi all. The restoration is going well!!! Now at a point for decisions regarding suspension. I've decided to go for cv conversion from canleys, expensive but I think better in long term. Going to quiet new shocks and springs, is leads me to my question? Looking on tinternet found spax/gaz/Koni as options. And wether to go for ride/height adjustable? I was also planning on going for poly bush - probably the comfort ones as car is for enjoyment not ragging, want it to look/sound good. Have come across the choice of updated springs as well? Hence I'm confused, which would be the best combination? I.e. which shocks are good? To go for updated springs or not? Ride/height adjustable? This is obviously an expensive decision so don't want to get it wrong, but am well excited its reached a point to be deciding it. Thanks for your help, Tim.
  10. It's going to be gunmetal grey. I'm not about originality for me!! This I'm sure will annoy some people. ;) When did people paint theirs? Tim
  11. Hi all Now at a stage to decide what colour to paint the engine. It's nearly super clean, would now consider eating my dinner off it. What colour do people have? What colour is it originally, I think it was matt black? What about exhaust manifold, have people painted theirs to match? Which bits should I not paint, assuming not painting the block faces for the gaskets, but what about ancillaries attach? Any other tips on painting would be great. Tim
  12. thanks guys the double nut method worked, obviously needed a few weeks for the penetrating oil to soak in. going to replace them and at least half have visible damage to the threads and few have pitting on the shank itself. would explain why it was such a git to get off in the first place. onto to the next challange. tim.
  13. Hi all another question for you all. The head was a nightmare to get off, i honestly thought someone had welded it on!! but i won!! managed to use the double nut method to get 3 of the bolts out with the head on, but the others wouldnt budge. the head is now off and gone to have the valve seats done.clean up. I want to get the studs out of the block. any ideas how, seen some stud extractors but many different types and different opinions on which ones work. any thoughts, if i have to spend some money to get them off, i will grudgingly but not sure i will ever use the tool again. but if anyone has any cheaper alternatives would be great. Thanks tim.
  14. Hi all GT6 M you were right. Lots of swearing/face pulling and out it came, some what over tightened!!! But it was satisfying to get it off!!!! thanks all for your help. On to the next problem!! tim
  15. So whilst I've been huffing and puffing trying to wiggle it about and get it off this is what I come back to???!!??? ;) :P ;D
  16. Hi yes leaf spring is off, as is everything apart from the diff. Been back down this evening, a lot of persuassion and some interesting language the front chassis member atttachments are free. The rerar bolt is out but it just rotates on this axis. It does move (like a hinge) but even after a lot of moving the bolt still slides back in, so obviously not budging at all. planning on droping the chassis to the floor and pring a bit harder, wont have to try and support/hold it at the same time!! any other thoughts? thanks Tim
  17. Hi all Im stripping down the chassis (GT6 mk3) wheels/rear suspension all off. The long single bolt at the back of the diff is out and the two nuts that is suspends from is off, but it is not budging. Ive tried levering it off, letting it hang under its own weight but no joy. Any other bolts im missing? or thoughts? thanks tim
  18. It would appear 2 of us have done this rcently.Those pics would of been useful! let me know if u want any more pics. T
  19. hi welcome, I too am restoring a gt6 mk 3 but 71. my windscreen gutters are ok, sills are hard enough for me!! I remember reading a resto thread on here that he did a lot of repairs including the windscreen gutters. sorry cant remember his name. Have a flick through the old threads, if you've got a few hours its amazing what you can pick up!! Tim.
  20. Congrats I bet that was a good feeling!! I know im a very long way off mine starting, but cant wait! soon you'll be out driving it on the open road. T
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