Jump to content

timireson

Expired Member
  • Posts

    96
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Everything posted by timireson

  1. What do u need? I have the bits that I removed when going for cv. Any good? Tim
  2. I'm in the same process, initially spun it over on starter motor only to get oil through. Now finishing off the ancillaries. My mechanic friend said to start for a few minutes then allow to cool then start for 20 mins with variable revs. Apparently let's the bearing 'settle in'. I'm planning on new oil after this then change at 500miles. Maybe too soon to change oil but in grand scheme of thing £20 for oil and filter is worth it for me. Let us know how it goes.... Tim
  3. Another way I was shown is to get a piece of copper pipe a little bigger than your bolt, heat it in blow torch then press and turn it and it will burn a clean hole through the carpet. I tried it and it works a treat, but remember your gloves!! Tim.
  4. Hi Can anyone tell me how the bonnet catch comes apart? All I need off is handle/chrome bit. Have a gt6 mk3 but they are common to spitfires/vettesses etc Seems to be a press fit unthreaded bolt? X3. My catches are in great condition except the chrome has suffered whilst being in the deed for 30yrs. Was thinking to get them re chromed when I do the bumpers etc. as £50 each new is pricey!! And I like reusing what I have!! Thanks Tim.
  5. When I removed my engine, also gt6 mk 3 it was turret spacer engine mount going from front to back, no idea if this was  original, but I think it might be. Confirmation would be good as my engine is about to go back in when I can track down an engine hoist. Tim
  6. That's him, know him personally, he's very good, he has Garage I dream off!! Tim
  7. timireson

    bumpers

    I've come across these before, I too interested in if they are any good. One less thing bit rust!!! Hope someone had some experience of them. T
  8. Hi all does anyone know where I can buy a single valve for the AC mechanical fuel pump. just rebuilt my fuel pump, but managed to damage one of the valves and it wont seal :( really frustrating as it took ages to get the old ones out. don't really want to order a complete rebuild just for one valve  :o the usual places seem to only offer the complete kit. any ideas? tim
  9. Hi You can fix straight to the chassis, but I have the brackets which I think make the suspension/dampers  more vertical which I think means they work better/less stress on them. I like  your screen name!! I wonder if anyone else has figured it out?? T.
  10. Hi mark get your hands dirty..whats the worse that can happen???!!!??? if you can do the above you, youre well further ahead than me!! im just 'trying my hand' at the panels on my GT6. very nervous, but if I screw it up, ill learn and then get someone to show me properly!! im in stafffordshire, and mine is in pieces!! but that's a long way for you unless you happen to be passing through. tim
  11. thanks guys, was going down the new colour route when I came across the cromax (formerly DuPont refinish) website, which you don't have to be a trader to get access to the info!! its the stock code that the suppliers are interested in and that it is a Europe code (apparently makes a big difference) colour was on there with modern code, just had to find a supplier that supplies to the public and uses cromax products. only spelling it out in case someone wants to know for the future, as the number of companies that told me to bring a sample in but not understanding that it is currently yellow!! t.
  12. Hi all I'm getting ready to repaint my chassis(don't ask!!) I've epoxy mastic it, and now want to paint it in body colour. I'm planning on paint it jaguar opalescent gunmetal grey. I've found the codes are old rm#ja007 new rm#7402 and glasurit #jag-7402a Phoned a few suppliers and they say they can't help me as these are tHe wrong numbers I've got them jag forum and seem to be repeated a lot so think they are correct. Any ideas of how to get hold of some? 2nd question Can you paint these by hand? As this is just for the chassis, finish isn't so I important and not sure it worth paying transportation and then spraying costs!! I just want it to match with the body work when this is done later. Thanks tim
  13. thanks for the repiies. none it is then!! at least it lets the build continue. tim.
  14. Hi all When i stripped my front hubs on my gt6 mk 3. there was no water shield or seal, i see that it is on the parts list on canleys website but no longer available. Done a few searches and it would seem some ignore this? do i just but the felt seal in and not worry about it?? to me (i am new to this game) it seems rather crude without it and surely going to accelerate bearing wear/rusting??? im planning on using this car regularly so it will get wet!! any suggestions? or am i worrying about nothing?? thanks tim.
  15. How random is that I had the sane problem last night!!??!! And that's what I did! Tim
  16. take photos - lots. everything before it comes off and as you diassemble things to paint/clean etc mine was half stripped when i got it, the bits i stripped and took photos were easy to put back together the rest - we shall see..... tim
  17. hi you can get a workshop manual for the gt6, i got one on ebay in fab condition for £20. there are pdfs of it around, if you do a search on here you'll find a link to a website with it on, but i find the book easier to find what youre looking for. beating that i also have the haynes manual which is ok. that and i use the canleys website as a 'parts manual' cos i cant find one of them for love nor money. tim
  18. I agree, dont throw it yet, 1) can provide lots of spares for increasingly rare parts and 2) i thought my engine was useless when i took the head off and it was fine (well i hvent started it yet but im told it will be fine.....) get someone with experience to look at it, even it costs you a few quid. t.
  19. Hi I did this job yesterday, well completed it anyway. I used a drill/hole cutter to get the rubber out, the smell of burning rubber is not nice/good for you. Then cut three 'breaks' with a hacksaw and hammered it out. certainly took some persuasion. they were well  rusted on. lots of penetrating spray over the last few weeks. go for polybushes easier to come out next time if they needed to!! tim
  20. Hi all just got around to stripping the water pump. all looks good, even the thermostat still works. eccept this bit: the "inner ring" which surrounds the impeller I think, looks like a tin worm mouse has been at it, see the pic above. does this mean the pump is knackered, or does it not matter? I don't want to strip it all down and repaint, if it is. thanks tim  
  21. Yes the plates can crack/snap. mine was in two pieces when I took it off. trying to source a replacement!! tim
  22. I lost on one side and had to get a new hub  :'( Other side needed 10 tonnes on it and a lot of heat and 5 hours!! Good luck. Tim
  23. Setup a photobucket account and the. Paste the IMg link and then can put lots of pics then. No worries about size then. Tim
  24. Hi ive just rebuilt my 6 pot. I spent just under £900 doing it, I did the strip down, clean (then clean, then cleaning some more)!! crank was reground and balanced. head converted to unleaded and reconditioned. new bearings rings etc. but bores were fine. the parts mount up. My mechanic who would of done it for me, said it would of been £1000 in labour. rebore was quoted as £125 if I needed it doing. What about doing it yourself? id never done it before but I did pay my mechanic friend to be there, to stop me doing anything silly! tim
×
×
  • Create New...