byakk0
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Everything posted by byakk0
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Thanks John! The high brake light is still in development, but here is my prototype, and a video of it working in the car. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3R6KBmOWEI4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lKh4UKKZG0g Black installed in a satisfied customer's car.
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just sent them an inquiry... I'd much rather get it right before I start making drastic changes.
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so I've heard. I see BS2 and BS5 listed, but no dimensions. http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk/Forms/Extrusion_List_15_05_2013.pdf
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I've been waiting for the tailgate seal to arrive so I can make necessary adjustments, and now that I have a new one I am at a temporary loss as to what to do. With the seal installed the passenger side is much higher than the driver's side. as much as 1/2" Driver's side is more or less right on the money. really had me scratching my head, so I added a cardboard shim between the hinge and the tailgate-this is the before shot. (notice only one bolt...had some broken ones, more on that in a bit) The shim brought the top of the tailgate up a little and thus the lower portion down, but It was still off. To add insult to injury it would no longer latch. So, at this point I gave up on it for the day. When I came back to it later I discovered I have placed the striker assembly off center. See the emblem hole just below? yeah, they don't line up. As this striker unit is not yet welded in place (you can see the self tapping screws) I was able to shift it to the left to it's correct location, and while not the entire solution to the problem, I got it latching once more. I added another layer of shims and it got a little closer. The passenger is still high, but nearly liveable. It is the center of the hatch that is the problem. This is my current head-scratcher. I'm wondering if my tailgate seal is part of the problem. Even adjusted to the center, it takes effort to latch it. Ordered from Canley, pt# 610657 Before I added the next layer of shims I decided to take the hatch back off and deal with 2 issues. One of the previously mentioned broken bolts, and another of the fasteners used by the PO to secure the latch. (I don't think it was me, but I haven't looked at this part in nearly 2 decades) As you can see, two of these do not belong, and the thread should be like shorter screw.... The middle one was in all the way. So I removed the offending screws and chased them with a tap. If you look closely you can see a crack also. So I welded it together. As for the broken bolts, I managed to successfully drill them out and re-tap those holes. I can again have three bolts on each side of the hinge. Photos may follow later.
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Little more work. Knowing the pitfalls I encountered with the driver's side skin I knew what to look out for--or so I thought. I took before measurements in various locations just to be safer side. Come to find out I needed to make adjustments to the skin itself, and the curve wasn't as nice-if It's not one thing it's another. Guess you get what you pay for as these were not heritage panels but cheapo re-pops. They were labeled as made in England. Anyway, I made it all work in the end. Still needs more fitting but the QP and rocker are still loose, so I can make adjustments as needed all the way around. Insides all painted. I had to add a little to this section, and remove a little from the latch end. I also had to shorten this section about 1/2", and as you can see here, like the otther side, there is no clearance. No after shot-yet-but I had to adjust it in a similar manner as previous. relief cuts on the lower corners so I could tap the skin down. checking the fit of the wing window. Need 3/4" clearance at the point indicated, as per previously mentioned measurement. And the current after-shot.I'm far from finished, but at this point everything at least lines up correctly, and with the latch installed, it closes nicely.
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No worries. The pictures make the shift lever look worse-that orange must be a reflection as it is certainly not rust! . It's mostly shiny. Just the lower bits are a little pitted. The rough parts are all covered with the shift boot in the end anyway. Good idea though. As for the channel guide, thanks for the heads up. I'm ultimately not hurting though. Plenty of spares there. additionally, I put all the parts directly into a box for safe keeping-something I've rarely done. I frequently have a 'now where did I put that' moment... Today i installed and connected my headlights. They work (YAY!). In doing so, I dropped an amber beehive lens on the concrete and it shattered. It was my new one too-still in the box when I received it a few months ago.
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Staring in on the passenger side door re-skin. I knew it had to be done, and as I have a new skin just waiting, I dug in. Good thing too. Here is the tear-down and initial reconstruction. Upper side of the door. This screw hides behind a rubber plug, which naturally I am missing. The nuts, bolts and brackets they belong to and where they go. Upper-outside bracket of the wing window lower bracket of the wing window. The hole the previously mentioned screw goes into is under my thumb. I like to put the hardware back in place so I don't misplace any, and also so I know which goes where. remove this clip, separate the linkage and put the clip back on the pin. It's too small and you don't want to loose it. start sliding the wing window out, but you'll need to remove the waist seal and it's clips before you can fully remove the window. Slip the rollers at the bottom of the winder mechanism from the channel at the bottom of the window and slowly slide the window out. The other components can now come out. winder mechanism, overlaid in it's correct position upper travel-limit stop latch-side window guide. uncovered this little gem. Hose clamp (loose) held in place with plumber's putty? Where is the spring clip? lower travel-limit stop. Why Phillip's screws instead of bolts? The factory does strange things sometimes. Some engineer has an answer, but likely we'll never know. skin removed. Ah...there's the spring clip for the lock. Also note the bondo oozing through drill holes. I had forgotten how thick the bondo is around the door lock-not my handiwork. I could tell from the inside the door was dented, so I knocked the dent out with a mallet. roughly 1/4" thick--wow. as with the driver's side, the door check strap connection is awol. I've kept the shell soaking in TSP (tri-sodium phospate) for over a day. It was cool today so I didn't need to re-apply it very often. It started looking as bad as the inside of the door skin. Thought I took a photo but I guess not. The TSP killed well over 75% of the rust. The rest should come off fairly easy with a little persuasion from a brush on my grinder. the old check-strap connections and my reproduction. The look a little large here, but I ended up needing to reshape them a little to extend the tabs, so in the end they were still a little over-sized but closer. No one will notice anyway.
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I've got a lot of slop in my shift lever. It's pretty obvious why, as the hole for the shift linkage to the transmission is probably around 1/2" diameter or so and all I have is a 3/8" pin. The lever moves a lot before it makes any contact and actually shifts. I recently got the rebuild kit in the mail, so I tackled that today. The ball was a little torn up, but beyond missing the bushing in the linkage everything was in good shape. This clip was a bear to get off. It is seated in a groove. In the end I used a wide flat blade screwdriver to spread it open and start it upward and out of the groove. Then it was just a matter of persuading it off. I had to use a wrench against the clip and tap on the wrench. Installtion of the new one was the reverse operation. Installation order. I didn't use the beige washers, and the metal ones I used on the outside. Only the black plastic ones fit on the inside. Reverse lockout pin in the correct position. I left it as is as I didn't have any issues with it.
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Sounds good.
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Sounds good.
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Just tore down a door and took a pile of pics. Do you need any?
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Just tore down a door and took a pile of pics. Do you need any?
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let me know if you need anything further.
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let me know if you need anything further.
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yes, I just reassembled one. I have the fortune of not only having taken it apart, but I had 5 other's to use as reference. (Should I build a limo? ) put on 98 and 81 first. There's a little spring clip that ties the two together. followed by 74. You may need to tighten it fully then run the window winder to its lowest position. Make note of the two rollers. There are 3 brackets that hold #10 on, two are unmarked and one is #44. You'll want to install these next. Keep the bolts loose so they can move as needed. Slip #10 in, as well as 90., and get them in the rough position but don't start the bolts into place yet. Hopefully your glass is still in the channel. Slide the whole unit in. Now for the 2 rollers on #74. It takes a bit of fettling, but work the rollers till they slide into the channel on the bottom of the glass channel. Slide the sides of the glass into the guides on both #10 and #90, connect these to their mounting brackets and tighten a little. You still need room to move them around. (I think the 2 brackets are welded to to 90) You will find one of the screws accessible through a hole on the angled bit right there by the #44 in the diagram. It may/should have a rubber plug covering it. 84. It's an L bracket with felt. L at the bottom so the felt is up. This is the lower travel limit stop. There is one last small piece not shown that is mounted to the door with 2 Phillips head screws. It fits near the center of the guide rail of #10. You should be able to fit it with the glass up. I think this is the upper travel limit stop. It may take some fettling to get everything lined up so the winder easily runs the window up and down. The first few times you try you may find you need to assist it up or down. Once you get it where you are mostly satisfied, tighten the guide rail bolts up just enough they won't easily move and fit the door to the body. You'll find it will take more loosening, readjusting and tightening to get the fit correct. Hope that helps. I may not quite have it listed the way I actually did it, but you get the idea. If you need pics I can get you some, but I didn't document my rebuild at all. In fact, I plan on tearing down another door this week. I can take pics of the reverse process.
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yes, I just reassembled one. I have the fortune of not only having taken it apart, but I had 5 other's to use as reference. (Should I build a limo? ) put on 98 and 81 first. There's a little spring clip that ties the two together. followed by 74. You may need to tighten it fully then run the window winder to its lowest position. Make note of the two rollers. There are 3 brackets that hold #10 on, two are unmarked and one is #44. You'll want to install these next. Keep the bolts loose so they can move as needed. Slip #10 in, as well as 90., and get them in the rough position but don't start the bolts into place yet. Hopefully your glass is still in the channel. Slide the whole unit in. Now for the 2 rollers on #74. It takes a bit of fettling, but work the rollers till they slide into the channel on the bottom of the glass channel. Slide the sides of the glass into the guides on both #10 and #90, connect these to their mounting brackets and tighten a little. You still need room to move them around. (I think the 2 brackets are welded to to 90) You will find one of the screws accessible through a hole on the angled bit right there by the #44 in the diagram. It may/should have a rubber plug covering it. 84. It's an L bracket with felt. L at the bottom so the felt is up. This is the lower travel limit stop. There is one last small piece not shown that is mounted to the door with 2 Phillips head screws. It fits near the center of the guide rail of #10. You should be able to fit it with the glass up. I think this is the upper travel limit stop. It may take some fettling to get everything lined up so the winder easily runs the window up and down. The first few times you try you may find you need to assist it up or down. Once you get it where you are mostly satisfied, tighten the guide rail bolts up just enough they won't easily move and fit the door to the body. You'll find it will take more loosening, readjusting and tightening to get the fit correct. Hope that helps. I may not quite have it listed the way I actually did it, but you get the idea. If you need pics I can get you some, but I didn't document my rebuild at all. In fact, I plan on tearing down another door this week. I can take pics of the reverse process.
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I really need to pull the passenger side door and get to re-skinning it, but instead I've been piddling around with misc bits and driving it a little. I've got some discarded packing foam from work and built a seat base cushion as practice. Need to do the same for the passenger side, as there is no telling when I'll get to doing it for real. Sure beats having the old one crumble into a school-bus yellow powder every time I touch the seats. Rebuilt the headlight buckets and installed working bulbs. New gaskets, spire clips and screws on hand so I can get them installed on the bonnet now. Installed the tachometer and dialed the carbs down to something around 1500 or less. Not entirely sure as one time I'll run it and it will be sub 1000 and later it will be above 1500, with no adjustments other than engine warmed up and choke off. I'll sort that issue later. Timing shouldn't be an issue as I haven't messed with it or the dizzy at all. Played with the horns and dug the missing pig-tails out of my bins. Verified the Alternator is still good. Good thing too. It probably has less than 5k miles on it even though I bought it back in 95-ish. So, either my voltage regulator is shot or I have it wired wrong as the alt just isn't recharging the battery. I may bite the bullet and buy an internally regulated one, but I need to get a crankshaft position sensor for my truck first... I also got a nice little package from Canley Classics, Longhorn headliner, tailgate seal, and a shifter rebushing kit. Now I can lose all that slop and perhaps be able to find 3rd. With the new tailgate seal in hand I can now test the fit of the rear hatch and see just how much work I need to do on the back-end to get everything fit properly and looking right. The driver's side of the tailgate seems to fit just fine, but the passenger side lower corner seems to be high, and the center of the body looks low. The fit is very tight on the passenger side and I can't quite get it to latch now. I'm wondering if I can put a shim between the hatch and the hinge and get that side of the hatch to raise enough to relieve the pressure and allow that lower corner to drop. I've got some work cut out for me now.
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MKIV Spitfire restoration - Best paint colour?
byakk0 replied to YoungStanley's topic in Triumph Chat
I'd say if you plan on selling (or see yourself selling in a few years), go with the paint code. If you plan on keeping it and enjoying it, paint it what you like. I have no intentions of selling my GT6, so it's BMW space grey for me. -
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very nice. Glad to be of service.
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You may have to construct them as those bits are hard to find. That diagram does not give dimensions, but you could extrapolate them from the real thing as you do have some known measurements. One piece of flat steel and one of angle.
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Here you go. You can use this for placement of the clamp if needed. It's factory set, I haven't disassembled it at all.
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It certainly does. And I got it starting on it's own without using starting fluid. Just need to adjust the idle speed. I was cruising about 20 MPH or so without my foot on the throttle. Engage the clutch and the RPM increases drastically. --- If I am going to drive this beast I need mirrors. Little scary without... So I worked up a semi-adjustable holder/drilling guide. Making these easily adjustable is either just not something I have the gear to do, or I haven't quite figured it out. My original intent was to slot the horizontal and vertical strips so I could just change position on the fly, but having screws or nuts on the backside would interfere with the true position and possible dent the skin. I'm not worried about the passenger side as I need to re-skin that one still, but the drivers side is new so no chance. I'm taking a chance as it is as this type mirror has a bracket screwed from the bottom, but I've filed them a little flatter, and having the horizontal strip on the vertical I should be ok... For now, I have them tack welded. Adjusting is a little more involved than my original plan, but it's fully functional for the purpose, and holds the mirror still for test driving. With turn signals only (no windscreen installed-I've got the frame in I plan on using, so making adjustments with it in place) and seat not bolted in place I went for a spin around the block--last time was just down the street to turn around. When I got home my wife asked to go for a spin. It's been 20 years since we last rode in it together. I had to shove the treasures that have accumulated in the empty pass compartment (hey, storage happens ) and throw in a seat. I told her it wouldn't be bolted down, but she was ok with it. So, in went the seat, then her, and off we went for a jaunt around the block. I shot a video, or rather my wife did, but it's turned 90 degrees and shows mostly the dash. Need to figure out how to rotate it before posting it.
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Yay. Guess you don't need my photos I took for someone else
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for sure. However, I still need to finish the passenger side. Door skin, sills, and wing.
