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timraven

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  1. timraven
    Should be do able in the car, sure the Haynes manual describes it done that way actually. Get it high and very secure, preferably on ramps, as the torque required to do up and undo the pinion nut is fairly large. To undo it I used a long length of angle iron with two holes in so it can be bolted to the flange, stopping it turning as you undo the nut and vice versa. The most awkward bit is probably going to be removing the split pin, but it should be fine in the car.
  2. timraven
    I talked to Dave about this a few months back regarding my small crank 1300 rebuild. According to rolling road data gained in the 80's by Kipping, one single HS6 on a Dolly/Tolly manifold (machined out to 1 3/4" from 1 1/2" at the carb end) gave out the same power as twin HS2's, but with increased torque and economy. This setup is what Dave runs Canley's Courier on. I will be fitting this on my new engine, saves balancing carbs and I have the bits already!
  3. timraven
    When I rebuilt mine I didn't split them, just used compressed air, and bled them through on the car (obviously) have been fine for the past year, around 10000 miles...
  4. timraven
    I remember someone got fed up with the modern rubber and made solid metal ones, and reported it made little difference to the transmission of vibration.
  5. timraven
    I used graphite about a month back, probably not enough though.
  6. timraven
    Teeth were ok, but the lubrication I used was very sparing, think I'll just chuck some wd on, and wipe off as much as I can leaving it in the helix. Cheers for that ;)
  7. timraven
    That sounds similar to mine, about 10mm. Interesting.
  8. timraven
    Hmm, could try that then! Cheers Rich
  9. timraven
    What is the size of the spacer used on a 1500 engine? I have one on at the moment which is the same as the spacer on my 1300 Herald, I'm thinking they should be different? My motor has always been "clattery" and can be a pain to start due only to the motor not engaging properly first time (or first 3!). I ask because I showed a mate how to sort a problem with his today, and his spacer is much smaller than mine (albeit with a load of thin shims as well), with the same 1500 engine. Mine is from a Midget (FP) but should have the same flywheel surely? Cheers Tim
  10. timraven
    Ha, I remember when I replaced my loom I didn't have one of them, and then wondered why only the reverse lights worked! Took me a few mins to find the load of connectors hidden in the back wing
  11. timraven
    I've had to pull out :( The dash wiring martyred itself last night on the way home from Derby. Need a new loom now :/ I'll enter the next one! Have fun guys ;) Cheers Tim
  12. timraven
    I've sent out the entry form first class today, hoping for the best! Cheers Tim
  13. timraven
    I'll be sending my entry form off in the morning, lost my membership number and had to phone the membership secretary (very helpful by the way). Been wanting to try them for a while, thought why not! :) Any tips for a newbie? Just gotta prep the car, a few annoying problems to sort out, namely the fan belt squealing above 4000rpm. The thread in the head that the alternator bracket bolts to has stripped, so I can't get enough tension on the belt, so I'll be helicoiling that on monday. Also got to polish and reseal my clutch master cylinder, as that's begun to weep fluid. Anything special I should prepare for in scrutineering? Cheers Tim PS- I'll be in a multishaded green Mk 4 Spit ;)
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