Peterrc
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Everything posted by Peterrc
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5113 wrote:Do you have a link ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LUCAS-NOS-76766-RED-BUTTON-12V-STARTER-SOLENOID-Austin-BMC-MG-Morris-/201076335365?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2ed1156305
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One on E-Bay. Bit more than 99p.
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Richard_B wrote:7/16" (MkII studs) is 65 lb/ft the 42 -46 lb/ft setting is for MkI studs Thanks Richard that makes sense. Peter
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I have had my cylinder head converted to unleaded and am about to refit it. The recommended torque setting, Triumph and Haynes, is 42 to 46 Ft Lbs. I discussed this with the machine shop as I thought that was a bit low. He produced a booklet that said that is the setting for 3/8 inch studs. I have 7/16 inch studs and he says the torque setting should be 60 - 80 Ft Lbs. What do the 'Experts' think?
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Richard_B wrote:Depending on what car, wont the spoke obsure the gauges? The car is a Bond Equipe (Vitesse dashboard). Just been out to the garage for a sit. The spoke slightly obscures the low Rev Counter numbers but the speedo and the indicator light can be clearly seen.
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I have often wondered whether it is a good idea to have one of the steering wheel spokes pointing downwards in the event of a head on crash. As I am restoring a wood rim steering I now have the opportunity to have the spoke pointing upwards. I appreciate that 'Mr Triumph' probably had break points in the original wheel but my Wooden one does not. What are the 'experts' views on this?
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Hi Pete, this is what they supply now. http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RX1352 I have one like yours in the garage, a bit marked but the threads are good. You can have it as it is only sat in a drawer. Peter
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[quote=JensH]Lower one! http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID005669[/quote Thanks. Just spotted this in time as the backplate will be going on today.
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[quote=JensH]Lower one! http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID005669[/quote Thanks. Just spotted this in time as the backplate will be going on today.
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JensH wrote:And do check copper washer on top of the rear crankshaft oil seal housing :-) (same goes with the bell housing/gearbox) Tell me more !! I am in the process of rebuilding the engine of my 2ltr Bond Equipe, reground crankshaft and converted to unleaded. I did notice a copper washer on one of the Rear crankshaft oil housing bolts so this explains it. Where about is the Bell jousing/gearbox one? I have replaced the output seal as there was a leak in the bellhousing.
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JensH wrote:And do check copper washer on top of the rear crankshaft oil seal housing :-) (same goes with the bell housing/gearbox) Tell me more !! I am in the process of rebuilding the engine of my 2ltr Bond Equipe, reground crankshaft and converted to unleaded. I did notice a copper washer on one of the Rear crankshaft oil housing bolts so this explains it. Where about is the Bell jousing/gearbox one? I have replaced the output seal as there was a leak in the bellhousing.
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2997 wrote:On ours we managed to correct the same fault by doing just that on one side, however the bonnet was too short on the drivers side by a good 10 mm if I kept the windscreen gap even, this ment that I had to extend the bonnet on this side to achieve a good overall fit Generally a right pain to do truth be told but the gaps on mine were a mess Another job to do but best done when the Engine & Rad are out. Thanks
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Bond is looking good and will suit a red interior. I am not happy with the fit of my Equipe Convertible bonnet. Gap at the bulkhead is wider at the top than the bottom. Thinking of raising the front of the bonnet to compensate. Is there any other adgustment that you can suggest? The bonnet is off the car at the moment as the engine is out.
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2997 wrote:Still think a roll over hoop might be advisable as the full roof is single skin fibreglass And a vinyl webasto roof You might like to try adapting a Stag 'T' bar. It is not a proper Roll over hoop, so don't get adventurous, but it is better than nothing. It also gives you somewhere to hang your seat belts and an interior light.