Peterrc
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Everything posted by Peterrc
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I was unable to resolve the problem so called on a retired local Triumph garage owner for help. I pointed out the baulk ring problem and he spotted that the 3rd/4th inner gear wheel was the wrong was round. Although the outer selector wheel was symmetrical. I have fired my son who was helping me with the rebuild. Many thanks for your help. Peter
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Thanks Pete, for some reason I was not told of your reply, yes I did tick the box, so apologies for the late response. I will give that a try over the weekend. It is an overdrive gearbox and only the 'mini extension' is fitted. I did not want to proceed further until I had resolved the problem. Many thanks Peter
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peterhlewis wrote:I would think you have a 4th or 3rd gear baulk ring locked on which can happen when you reassemble off with the top and you can lever it off with a screwdriver if seriously jammed in you may have to withdraw the stem gear a little to reposition the ring Pete Hi Pete, thank you for your help. As you say one of the baulk rings on the 3rd/top hub is loose and one is tight. I have tried to move it but it wont budge. What are you calling the stem gear? Is that the one on the end of the input shaft? What would you suggest that I use on the paper gaskets, dry, grease or Hylomar? Does the gearbox have a breather? Hopefully I am nearly there. Many thanks Peter
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I have just finished restoring a Vitesse gearbox having replaced bearings and syncro rings. Everything turns but with the gear lever in Neutral the input and output shafts are still connected. One thing I have noticed is that the gear lever does not go fully home when third gear is selected. Any idea where I have gone wrong? Many thanks Peter
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The 'Brothers Grim' do a complete harness Overdrive Harness - Gear Lever Overdrive Models Only 1 153726 In stock Price Match £9.37 ex VAT £11.24 inc VAT
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Hi Chunky, I believe that they are Vauxhall Cresta PB. PM sent. Peter
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Hi Robbie, I believe it is a cut down Triumph 1300 FWD.
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Hi Dave, I would like to know this as well as I have leak from the front end which could be caused by pressurisation due to a blocked breather. Peter
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It sounds like the engine is stiff and the starter cannot cope. Remove the starter and try to turn the engine over by hand.
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Hi Guys, thank you for your input, my budget does not rise to new seats. The car interior is black so red is not an option. I have had a trial fit and holes do not line up si I will have to improvise. Thinking of bolting a flat plate to the existing holes then attaching the MX5 seats runners to the plate. Structural strength may be a problem but I am sure that I can solve that. It seems a shame to go buying new seat covers when there is only damage in one place. I have removed the damaged seat cover and will see what the local upholsterer has to say.
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Thanks Don, that is good advice. I would prefer to use the MX5 runners. I think the Bond has GT6 seats so should be the same as yours. I just need to find a supplier of the original fabric or the alternative is to put matching fabric in all the bolsters.
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I have just bought a pair of MX5 seats for my Bond Equipe (Triumph Vitesse). The Drivers side padding fabric is badly worn. Any suggestions as to how I can repair it? Any advice on how others have fitted MX5 seats to a Herald or Vitesse would be much appreciated. Many thanks Peter
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One on e-bay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221574748023?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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One on e-bay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221574748023?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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Has anyone tried the 'Stealth' distributor? I believe made by Accuspark. On e-0bay at a very good price. Do not know if they make one for the GT6. Rev Counter might be a problem. http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Stealth-Ignition-Systems
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Hi Paul, try http://www.overdrive-repairs.co.uk/ If anyone can help you they can. Peter
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A belated welcome to the forum from another 'Bondy' (MK 2 Convertible 2ltr). The indicator problem sounds like a bad earth. I have no problem with my exhaust which passes under the chassis just after the Diff. Peter
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taylormoran wrote:The wires to the switch often break due to fatigue. That would be my bet. It can be changed with the gearbox in situ Overdrive Harness - Gear Lever Item No: 153726
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OK, I admit I have been diagnosed with a case of 'Overheating Paranoia'. The condition started soon after I bought a Triumph Stag. I have sold that but the condition continues. The psychiatrist says that there is a 90% chance I would be cured if I bought an MG but I am allergic to MG's. The therapy provided by this Forum is helping. To answer your questions. The engine has been set up by a local garage after the head was changed to unleaded and the crankshaft was reground. The system has been treated with radiator flush and the Static timing is 6 degrees BTDC. The engine does feel hot with heat felt inside the car. I have a capillary gauge which I will connect up and see what results I get. Many thanks for all the comments and advice.
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1526 wrote:Yes I agree - trying to fix a cooling problem that does not exist if the gauge never goes over half way. MUT I hear what you are saying but these conditions are with an outside temperature of 15 degrees in Scotland. What would it be like in France at 30 degrees plus? I don't want to go there and find that it cannot cope.
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I plan to improve the engine cooling on my 2 ltr Triumph 6 cylinder engine (Bond Equipe) and have come up with the idea of raising the radiator by about 3/4 of an inch. This would in theory increase the coolant capacity. It has always troubled me that when cold there is no water in the hose from the thermostat. Has anybody done this? One problem that I can see is that the area affected by the fan would be reduced. Perhaps I would be better fitting an electric fan or having the radiator re-cored. The engine temp is fine when driving 1/3 gauge but in towns it rises to 1/2+ What do the experts think?
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Richard_B wrote:All 2.5's use the 7/16"UNF nuts at 65lb/ft Being a PI I thought that might be the case.
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Just done this job and was advised by the machinist that the head gasket was pre-treated and did not require sealant. Perhaps you could ask your gasket supplier if sealant is needed. I know that no instructions came with mine. Clean the studs and stud holes and lightly grease the studs. Make sure that you have the correct torque for the head nuts. For the Vitesse it is Early Heads 45+ Ft lbs Mk 2 heads 65+ Ft lbs, quite a difference, don't know about the PI.
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Hi Ken, my middle name is Heath Robinson. I have an Equipe and had to fill the boot up with bricks to get it to line up. To align it I had the spring lifter (a wrought iron gate post) set back from the end of the spring so that I could fit a 'G' clamp behind it. I then made up a squashed 'U' from wood that contacted the 2 uprights and avoided the spring. Once nearly in position I inserted a suitable sized bar, the same diameter as the bolt, that had been ground to a point over about an inch. Once the bar is located put the bolt in from the other side. Good luck, Peter