michelottiv8

piman wrote:Hello MichelottiV8, I don't know if it's an urban myth but I heard that many cars left Triumph with the ring gear wrong for the starter motor during the change from inertia to pre engaged. It's quite easy to knock that ring off and refit it the correct way round. Alec The good news if you do that is that the unmolested side will be where it should be and you won't have to buy a new ring gear! Result!

Never seen it before but check out the pics! My newly aquired 1971 2000 with a genuine 85000 had at some point a clutch and a flywheel ring gear. The starter motor was slipping on it with the usual screeching noise. The starter was removed and the pinion gear was was badly chewed as suspected. The reason was obvious! The ring gear had been put on the wrong way round, so the pinion gear was forcing against the flywheel ring gear causing it to move away from the mounting lip on the flywheel. The engine is ultra smooth and sweet! After a lot of thinking (which sometimes hurts) Ive decided to fit my spare 2.5 motor out of the race car. This means there will be a really good 2000 Mk2 engine for sale very shortly! Price about £100 bare long engine. Anciliiaries extra.

You will get away with an 8X15 with 33mm offset at the rear (but not the front) with slight dressing of the arch lip depending on tyre choice. 205/50 r 15 are smaller in diameter than the original and will help acceleration and make the speedo look like you're going quicker than you really are. The max width recommended (road tyre) by most manufacturers is 7 1/2" (the same as a 205/55 r 15 or 205/60 r15 which gets the gearing closer to original). So if you really want an 8x15 you need 225/50 r 15 or 225/55R15 (only Uniroyal r440)which will need arch modifications. In the UK (e-marked tyres) choice is limited to Falken FK912 or Toyo T1R, or various budget tyres. The T1R is best of the bunch but still not brilliant in comparison to more modern releases from Premium tyre manufactures. EARS have them for £85 ea. Trackday tyres are Kumho V700, Yoky A048 and Toyo R888, but dont expect grip from cold especially in the wet. A 7x15 with a 24mm offset with a 205/55 or 195/60 R15 is as wide as you need for road use and depending on tyre choice depends whether you need to dress the inner lip at the rear. For exmple T1R's are fractionally wider than FK912 for the same size. The other option is 8X16" with 225/45r16 (same height as 225/50r15) but a smaller sidewall and better choices, such as Uniroyal Rainsport 2. Minilite (Tech Del) do an 8X16 with a zero offset minimum so won't fit under your original arches. It's more practical to keep the offsets the same front and rear for road use.

I agree with Dion and piman about changing the shape of the wheelarches if I was keeping the car standard. It is being built as a heavily modified track day car however. My last track day Triumph 2500 Mk1 LDD 683E had 7x15 minilites with "fettled" rear arches and 205/55R15 Dunlop rubber. It was quicker than a lot of moderns 10 years ago (particularly in the wet at Castle Coombe) but I feel a bit wider track day rubber is now needed to keep pace. Dunlop Formula R or Toyo R1R 225/45R15 will be used and that means changing the profile of the arches. The Group 2 Capris had lovely arches but the ear wheels were 13" wide and I'm trying to keep it subtle! Thanks for your input though Graham    

thescrapman wrote:Afternoon Graham Can we have a side shot?? I'm struggling to visualise it without the flat at the top. Cheers Colin

After a lot of cutting of a new Austin Montego wheelarch (with the help of Maestro front wings for the rearmost little section to clear my 8x15 revolutions (zero offset) with 225/50r15 tyres, I have arrived at this shape on my Pi . Any thoughts? The same wheel/tyre combination fills the front arches perfectly. see pics  

I'll be happy to help and will bring Ridgetone V8 (Peter Jackson) along

Yes winder mechanism in first then glass with bottom channel next. It is a bit of a fiddle getting the rollers in the channel but temporarily use the winding handle to adjust and locate the rollers  

Yes winder mechanism in first then glass with bottom channel next. It is a bit of a fiddle getting the rollers in the channel but temporarily use the winding handle to adjust and locate the rollers