LadyScrumpy

well I've tried and failed to get the sump off mine with the engine lifted as far as I am comfortable lifting it and it still won't clear the bellhousing. the chassis crossmember is in the way, as is the steering rack. it's the chassis crossmember and bellhousing that are the problems though. I am SERIOUSLY annoyed! How far can you lift the engine without causing problems?

Hello. One of the front wheels is rubbing on my wheelarch.  I have adjustable spring seats on the shock absorbers. You can screw them up or down. it's a gt6. so to raise the ride height, do I adjust the spring seat upwards or downwards?  the geometry of the thing has just gone beyond me!  Common sense says up, to make the spring/shock unit longer. But I've looked at it for so long now I don't seem to know right from left any more. Thanks guys x

i've got 175 avons on the front of mine. and 185 dunlop D83J on the rear. So now you know! Point is, that fits nicely. A x

if in doubt, hit it.  I like it. I think that's the easiest option. I'll clobber it from underneath to give the weight a bit more room to fall out if it's trapped. Got to be worth a try. Cheers

Hi SO. The propshaft on my gt6 has started making a nasty grinding noise like metal rubbing on metal.   I thought it was a stuck brake drum when I drove him out of his shed, from being parked up for ages in all that rain we've had. I got halfway down the drive and decided to turn round and come home.  Upon inspection underneath there is a shiny ring around the propshaft more or less underneath the handbrake handle I spoke to a triumph expert and he reckons the balance weights on the propshaft sometimes come off and rub. So.  Has anyone else had this happen?  Got any clever ideas how I might get the thing out without having to have the exhaust off and god knows what else? Thanks guys....any input most welcome! Abby x

You could fit an oil cooler to the transmission.  I've heard of it being done....although I guess it wouldn't be easy what with no pump and you'd have to tap the transmission too.  All very frightening.

Louvres in the bonnet will help. Exhaust wrap will help. the original fan on its original pulley will help.  It circulates air a bit more than a kenlowe which just tends to cool the radiator (very well I might add, but it doesn't really blow air elsewhere.) Consider the engine bay valances etc....are they necessary.  Are they louvred? you can direct cold air from the front with ducting and do all sorts of things with it if you want.  But when stationary I suppose a fan is the only means of cooling....but just how long do you stay stationary for???

lagerzok wrote: 2002 Land Rover Disco TD5  - rattle , rattle, sip, sip haha, karma.  I've got an old disco as well.  it' drips, rattles bangs squeaks and shakes. oh and breaks down, yeah...mostly it breaks down.

4992 wrote: not sure on what diff though yet? Any suggestions? Gripper diffs in Coventry are VERY good, and VERY helpful people.  they're used to working with triumphs as I said earlier. They do a range of limited slipping too.  SO you don't have to have anything too aggressive if you don't want.  Just helps keep it driveable.  But beware, a lsd puts one HELL of a lot more stress on  your driveshafts so you will need to replace them.  I know plenty of people who have broken a driveshaft and done a lot of damage with it.

The biggest issue with shoving a lump that size with a load more power into a gt6 is the drivetrain. the gearbox can usually handle it, they're fairly robust but the propshaft and more importantly the driveshafts can't if you're going to really use the power. you might want to look into getting some better propshafts. The boys at Gripper Diffs emply an ex triumph man and they'll make you driveshafts for a gt6 at very reasonable money. for me, the thing with having a souped up car is having confidence in it.  You need to be able to put pedal to metal and not start sweating about the crank, driveshafts, pistons and so on...  so MY advice is to start from the bottom up as the rest of the work can be done with the engine IN the car.  Get your crank coated and balanced.  If you use a smaller forged piston (farly expensive) then you can use steel conrods which you can really trust.  After that you can play around with the head, cam, fuel delivery as much as you like while the block is sorted.  A 6-3-1 exhaust only gives you more power at higher revs.  The same applies to high lift cams.  So I like the advice above about sticking with an original TR5 cam.  Wider wheels just put more stress on the driveshafts and the prop/diff.  So don't go too wide.  a 175 tyre is about the widest I'd recommend. a lightened fly wheel can make a difference, if you've got the car in bits anyway then I'd take the flywheel to a good machine shop and get them to machine a few kg off it.  They're like a tombstone as they are.  Make sure you use someone reputable though as it will need to be balanced. I can put you in touch with the best man there is for gas flowing the head if you want that doing.  He's been doing it on triumphs and rover V8s for donkeys years and his are about the best out there.  PM me if you want. I always think that carburettors are more true to the car and the feel of it, and the period than efi.  There's something strangely romantic about a set of triple dellortos! haha. Using an electric fan and removing the engine mounted one and pulley makes a small improvement to power.  The same goes for the water pump if you can find an electric pump to fit. The thing is, when you've done all this work, and spent all your money you'll be frightened to death of driving it too fast anyway! haha.  As i'm sure you know, old cars aren't like new ones....30mph feels like 60 anyway so you don't need to pimp it up to get that fast feeling.  And you need to do some work on the brakes else you won't be able to stop! it's bloooody good fun though!  The only bit that isn't much fun is working on the block.  It doesn't FEEL like fun somehow.

you measure each piston height to the deck with a dial guage.  Ideally you level them all out so that the compression is the same in each cylinder.  This means that if you balance the crank then it stays balanced.  Higher compression in some cylinders can wobble your crank a bit! haha Piston tops can be levelled off in a lathe if you know, or you are, a good machinist. I thought that zero deck clearance was the target but that's just something from memory.  Ive got my landrover running on zero deck clearance.  She's a performace racing beast.  She's not.  At all.

1379 wrote:Actually they are supposed to assist cooling through dissapation of heat also, hence the fins, to give a larger surface area.    :) Yes I realise this, but they don't fit under the bloody bonnet!  it's ridiculous!  you have to grind a bit off them!

my spelling has gone out the window this morning!  wow!

my other half's MGC has got one.  It was prepped for hillclimbing in 1983 and the then owner spent a LOT of the engine...a lot of bottom ennd work done, etc.  All the usual stuff. I just wonder why if you've got all those beneficial things to spend your hard earned money on, why you'd spent sometimes, a LOT of money on a rocker cover that gives you no benefits.  It seems as if people get sort of caught up in the upgrading thing and then they do some of these things for the sake of it. I totally understand boys and toys.  I know enough other farmers with bigg shiny tractors not to  understand that! So I think this has answered my question nicely.  Thanks guys!  I don't need an alloy rocker cover. I also heard that the alloy ones with the small fins on he top from Moss et. al don't actually fit underr the bonnet, aparently you have to file the edges down a bit!!

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