DougBGT6

Alec, At least you're not being aggressive! I don't understand why people on here are getting so aerated about it. Wheel cylinder, slave cylinder it's the same thing. I only persisted with it as Raider appeared unaware that it could be called that. I recall getting the same amount of confrontation when I asked for advice about repairing my servo. The number of people with no advice, who just had to tell me  "You don't need a servo!". It is an unpleasant trait on here.

bx, Read and learn https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Master_cylinder

I'm not being pedantic, just surprised you didn't know. I suppose it's just political correctness. Masters and slaves, not quite right to say that any more. When I was an apprentice there was a particular file for use on wood and metal. It was called a bastard file, never hear of them these days, it's probably a universal file now. When I worked for the bank a woman asked me why the computer cables were male and female. I showed her how the male connector fitted in the female connector. 20 minutes later I was in personnel with only a Radio Spares catalogue to defend myself. They let me off but I was told to keep the dark secrets of computer network cabling to myself in the future. I wonder what they call them now?

The brake and clutch master cylinders are at the front on the bulkhead, everything else, every cylinder, is a slave, including the servo and wheel cylinders. wheel cylinders may well be described as such but the masters, slave concept is still correct.

Raider, The thing you call the rear brake wheel cylinder IS called a slave cylinder by, well, all most everybody! 😀 And agree with Mr Chatterton, it's easy, no special tool required!

Since recommending the Buckeye site on Tuesday I noticed on Wednesday it was down. It's still down. Anybody know anything about it?

I have CDSE and yes they do.

And that odd stripe along the tub and door, is it a slightly different colour above and below the stripe? Sills replaced and not quite colour matched?

Horrible! Why would you do that unless there's something to cover up. It appears to have chestnut carpets but not matching door panels. A bodge up me thinks.

Surely there are two bolt holes that have to line up? (Don't call me Shirley! Boom! Boom!) Also there is a pipe from the carb with the choke to the carb without so that both carbs get the benefit of the choke. Or the starting assist, as I've been corrected to call it!

I read John's link regarding cavitation, very interesting. However these are 40 year old triumph engines design going back even further. I must have changed a dozen water pumps in my time, not one died of impellor cavitation, it was always the bearing! I'd be really interested to hear if anybody on here has actually suffered from cavitation. In the mean time for people asking for advice let me repeat, Triumph designed it to have a thermostat so, why not fit a.................thermostat!

You mention special tool adjustment, which makes me think you have top adjusting Strombergs? These have biased needles and should rub on one side. The vent hole is towards the throttle butterfly. There are three turns on the adjustment, wind it right up then down two turns should put you in the right area. Here is a very useful site describing 175s which are very similar. http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Carbs/CarbsI/CarbsI.htm

Despite all the clever stuff John tells us he still says " I use an orifice, the same diameter as that in an open thermostat. It's cut out of sheet alloy" or am I misunderstanding that? I would strongly advise to do it the way Triumph designed it.

I like number 2 fuse, fuse block jaws a bit slack perhaps?! You say the empty fuse is the culprit? Are there 3 purple wires? If it's like other Triumphs purple goes to, main beam dip switch, horn relay + hazard flasher unit and interior light + ignition key light. Having said that the other fuse's look a bit modified so who knows what else has been tacked on! Good luck!