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As its a thinner seal, It is more prone to being tapped in scew, if you tap it home, at lest it will sit square

Thats the problem when one does to much in one go, lots of foot re treading needed. as you said, stand back, give it not to much thought but try and solve it like it was someone elses car/problem,  it gives a clearer mind. dont clutch at straws trying the not so obvious. one thing I would want to know is this low intake pressure!!!!! it says engine timing to me can you identify the cam as being the correct one   THIS WOULD BE MY LINE OF ATTACK

if you read back on this topic, you will see I have a friends herald I am playing with, fitted with a spit 1500 engine, this herald and my own spitfire (used once for the le mans trip) are both doing prity much the same thing. I took the friends herald out yesterday for a short trip, on the outward journey the carbs and there set up was standard, once normal temp had been reached the engine started to play up a little, holding back after a short stop at traffic lights etc, not running to bad on the straights. on the return trip, I desided to do the same quick mod I did to my spit mk4, I disconnected the breather from the rocker cover to the carbs, (you have to put a pipe from one carb to the other or they will suck in to much air) and low and behold, A much happier running car, as said before, this is not the be all and end all, but it does remove some hot air going into the carbs. one thing to note, my spit mk4 is running pancake filters, soon to be removed and reverted back to the original type filter box, with cold air coming from the front of the car via the filter box tubes. my spitfire runs worse than this herald 1500. (my guess is these open type filters arnt helping by allowing very hot air into the carbs) the herald 1500 has a standard filter box, with no tubs as yet (as we have not long acquired this car and not got round to fitting it yet) I must say, I have noticed a lot of people complaining of fuel vaporization, are mostly breathing in hot air from there filters, BUT NOT ALL  

O and before I head off out, read this, be it with a pinch of salt. http://www.carbkitsource.com/carbs/tech/articles/TuneUp/CarburetorTuneUp08.html this is NOT a fuel pump getting hot problem like some of you hear, BUT its still a modern fuel problem. like I said in the start, we need to know whats going on with OUR particular car, as the modern fuel affects different cars in different ways

like I said, different people have slightly different issues, but all have the same underline problem. Its interesting in yr case you saw the fuel boiling at the pump, a solution for YOU may well be to go electric I on the other hand when fitting my fuel regulator purposely fitted a temp clear hose so I could keep a eye on fuel or lack of it. its funny who the likes of Kenlow made a lot of money back in the day when they were first changing our fuels

dont panic, its not like I dont understand the problems with cold water on or near a hot exahust 😉

having just done a resent google search on the matter,  you come across lots of classic car owners all the with same type of problems, all have slightly different set of serconstances but the underline issue is the same. different makes and different models, we with are triumphs are no different, some get away with it as there set up is slightly different, maybe they have a straight through head, maybe they have a very large grill with good air flow, all this is not the point, the point is, there is a lot of trouble now that was not around in years gone by, this was never a problem, in years gone by, when there was a similar problem, YES we could look at it in the way most people are trying to diagnose it today,  only things have changed, and that is our fuel. like I said, what can you do about it!!!!!!! I dont want to rely on a car that can only run a high octain fuel. I know when driving abroad, late at night, you sometimes dont have a choice were you fill up or with what I will try this !!!!!!!!1 I am going to run my friends herald 1500, I will bring with me, some thing or a way of cooling the intake manifold, maybe water in a bottle who knows, I will drive it till is starts miss behaving and then will stop, I will keep the engine running and I will attempt to cool the intake ONLY,  no fuel lines or fuel pump. I will report back honestly even if its not what I think its going to be, no point in missleading people

You correctly (IMHO) found this was because under conditions of least fuel use, the pump pressure was overpowering the float valves in the fuel bowls. I never said this or found this to be the case!!!!

if memory serves, I do believe I run a short fuel line from a Jerry can straight to the manual fuel pump to eliminate a air leak

dont forget, I fitted a fuel regulator as close to the carbs as possible

and what happens to something when it vaporizes???? I would say it expands first, it would be easy to believe that the fuel bouls were simply flooding due to to much fuel and not flooding because of to much pressure casuesd by the expanding vaporizing fuel

Like I said, I had NO END of trouble with a spit mk4 that I bought a couple of years back with its sole purpose of being used to take me to La Mans I have read a lot of talk on this subject, but have not heard of any data. so its my intention on investing in a lazer thermometer and seeing whats going on. I am of a different opinion, and ill explain, first off, with regards to My Spit mk4, this car had no engine valances, no carb heat shields either, it would be run from cold out side my workshop with the bonnet up, after a while, she would get fuel boul flooding. SO one thing I can conclude, is in MY case at least, it was not a problem caused by heat from the cooling system. (I think I posted my problems either hear on club triumph or the sideways forum), I fitted a fuel regulator as many people blamed the fuel pump for over pressurized the carbs, the car run a tad smoother bit it did not stop my problem, so one thing I can say its not from the pump to the carbs, as I fitted my fuel reg close to the carbs, and ran a new fuel line away from any heat straight to the carbs. I cant say this enough, I believe the cause is the fuel, the solution is the challenge. you defiantly dont want to change the core temp of the engine, the challenge is to cool were the modern fuel runs through. I make bio diesel and that has given me a in site to the challenges of changing fuel's, with the GT6 and spit, we have a exhaust and inlet manifold right next to each other, the radiant heat is massive, the radiant heat from the head to the inlet manifold is huge as well, (remember with my spit mk4, it was sitting idle and it still had problems) if any one did remember my La mans trip and the car prep issues, you will remember on the night before I left, at around 10 or 11 pm, I stopped listening to all I had read, tried to de stress and work out what was going on, what I did was to disconnect the hose from the rocker cover to the carbs, I had to block each end of the hose but the car ran a whole lot better. I believed at the time, this could have been adding pressure to the carbs, and adding the fuel boul flooding IT DID NOT cure the problem mind although it did make it possible to make the trip, both ways on its own steam, with the backing sun on Saturday, I was forced to do a pit stop and fab a pair of heat shields from some thick alloy sheet at the side of the road for the carbs, this to did NOT resolve the problem. now going back, with a car thats sitting idle, bonnet up, fuel reg fitted, no engine valances, Whats the problem??????     fuel one thing to note, I think the use of pan type air filters is a massive no no if you have this problem, mine had them fitted, my friends new herald 1500 has original box type I believe there is a lot to be had from re fitting the original air box and making sure you are getting fresh cold ish air into the air system, there is cooling to be had from this air. thats s why in my instants, my inlet manifold was always hotter than the carbs, I tig weld, and believe you me, alloy will sap any heat from were ever it can get it, them carbs will soon be as hot as the heat source, the colder charge of air is with out a doubt cooling the carbs to a degree we need to re think the whole system, one thing I will bet you, if I was to run fuel of yesteryear I would not have these issues

having had this on my spit mk4 and now on a new addition (a friends herald with a spit 1500) I have spent some time thinking about it. nothing new in saying its defiantly modern fuel. the question is what to do about it. I for one am going to take a temp reading of the carbs, inlet and exhaust manifold, fuel pump and its pipes. I dont suppose these will be out of spec as to how triumph intended, but simply to gauge any changes i make. defiantly will be wrapping the exhaust, possibly might enlarge the water pipe that runs through the inlet manifold. carb heat shields will do very little a well maintained water system will help. but the problem is not heat,  so trying to lower the heat of the running engine will result in problems else were. what i will aim to do is to cool were the fuel runs through

hi guys trying to help a new herald owner, she has a 13/60 with a 4.11 diff, the input shaft bearings are shot, I am perfectly capable of rebuilding said diff, but the last time I did a triumph diff, I had a night mare buying quality parts, also dont really want to be to involved . I am not up on the veriants in triumph diffs and my question is this. can a early spitfire diff be fitted with the larger output shafts from the 13/60 diff or is the housing also differant as is the case with the latter gt6/vittesse and spit 1500

I have a small second hand steering wheel that came from a spitfire knocing around I would be happy to sell Ill measure it today and take a few photos if you want