josok
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Maybe you don't have to. From the front the inhibitor swich is just within reach. One wire goes to the stick switch, the other to + with contact on. Maybe you have that + connected to the reserve lamps connector. For this yes/no power a simple test lamp is more practical than a far too sensitive multimeter. Success!
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With the tool in place, it's impossible to close the door. So it's not possible to check the gap with the tool in place The final result here was a poor fit. The next time i use the tool i would first carefully check with the door in place, and then force the body in the right place with the adjuster. I might be tempted to use brute force with the adaptor on the finished car to get the quarter inch that would be needed for a nice fit.
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With the tool in place, it's impossible to close the door. So it's not possible to check the gap with the tool in place The final result here was a poor fit. The next time i use the tool i would first carefully check with the door in place, and then force the body in the right place with the adjuster. I might be tempted to use brute force with the adaptor on the finished car to get the quarter inch that would be needed for a nice fit.
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796 wrote:that should,nt be a prob, bung some gunge goo in it, and also use silicon for the gaskets. M Just had to write off an engine, because somebody smeared some goo instead of using gaskets. The goo ended up blocking an oil channel, and the results of that were very interesting. So the lesson i learned never ever use liquid sealant on something that that contains oil channels.
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Have a god look at the other door lock, preferrably in your hand to see what the various levers do and in what order. With that newly aquired knowlegde it should be possible to convince this shy lock to let go. 8)
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michael_charlton wrote: Strange...worked for me over the last ...ty years TImRobbins60 has a MK4 and i assume it will have the same guide/safety pin as my 1500. It is that safety pin that will keep the door to the lockplate. Another assumption is, that yours is older version and or has a different striker plate. For Tim i might add that sometimes the lock wont budge unless it it pushed fully closed first. So if the door card has been removed, pull/push the open handle while moving the door in/out wards. The handle to move is not the larger one, it one of the two smaller things ;)
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Undoing hinges is not an option, the door will hang on the lock plate. However, it's usually possoble to push the window down a bit, turn it fully down when the handle is in reach and then it´s fairly easy to use a hook to grab the release handle.
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Thanks for the picture! And happy motoring once more :-)
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If i remember correctly, it's possible to remove and reinstall the propshaft without removing the exhaust. Slightly off-topic: I had the far end joint of a sliding tractor take-off axle break. It ran "only" at 500 rpm. Later i found the lower end back, It lay 800 meters from where it happened. With that kind of ernergy, it would have smashed through a brick wall. Since then i regard UJ's as loaded guns.
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It's the usual ever returning confusion again. It's the fuse behind the wire, that protects the wire from heating, burning and starting a fire. To take it practical: If the consumer is a 2 watt bulb, the wire could be extremely thin, calculating and following the previous advice. If the fuse would be large, say 30 A, (maybe because there are other consumers connected to that same fuse too) and that little bulb would short out, the fuse would not blow. Instead that thin wire would get hot, very hot, and create disaster.
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Difficult to offer any helpful answer, you have seen and felt the play, not me. And you probably can imagine yourself what happens if that shaft breaks free and starts banging around. If you decide to take the risk, put a camera in a safe place. (Not on your body) and show us the pictures. Would be interesting! :-/