Lucky 13
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Everything posted by Lucky 13
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RESULT!!!! :) :) It's just so simple when you know. Many thanks Christian and Andrew. Now just have to get them properly set up.............. All the best John
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Andy, thanks for the info. I wondered if there might be an alternative float chamber - seems there is. Any chance that you might have a 'photo - someone on here might recognise where it's from. As for my floats - yes there's a massive difference which there shouldn't be. But the one with the problem (rear carb) is on the left and as you can see there's no way that can be raised as it's already just about touching the lid. The right hand float is too low (in theory) but actual fuel level is spot on (just below bridge). It's a mystery :-/ Cheers John
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OK, I've spent a bit of time surfing and found all sorts of stuff on this - much of it contradictory :( Speaking to the technical guys at SU they told me that I've got Delrin Needle Valves and the later type full nylon float - and these aren't adjustable. The gap to the lid (with them turned upside down) should be between .062" and .187" and that while the actual fuel level isn't that critical, ideally it should be the same in both carbs. The 'photo below shows the two floats - the one on the left, where the float's touching its lid is the rear carb where the fuel level is low. The fuel level in the other, where there's a 1cm of daylight, is on the bridge. Just the opposite of what you'd expect looking at them! So I'm going to stop worrying about getting the fuel up to the bridge on both and just concentrate on equalising the level between the two carbs. They've suggested that I swop the floats and see if that helps So that's what I'll do next - keep your fingers crossed!
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I've been having problems getting my recently rebuilt engine running properly. I've checked through the ignition system (replacing anything that was at all suspect) and retimed it, but still it won't run at anything above tickover or under load. So I turned to the carbs and decided to go back to the beginning and set them up from scratch again. My car has a 2500 engine from a 250S, hence the 1 3/4" HS6 SU's. All was well until I decided to check fuel levels. I decided to do this by removing the suction cap and piston, then looking at the fuel level in the jet. According to various articles I've read the fuel should be just below the bridge - which it was for the front carb. But the rear was about 1cm down the bore. Removed float lid and checked the new needle valve I'd fitted and it's exactly the same dimensions as the old one. Turning the thing upside down the float is almost contacting the inside face of the lid - so no room for raising it to lift the fuel level. So any ideas how I can lift the fuel level in the rear carb??? Thanks John
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Voted BLACK - simply because I like a little mystery!! Just installed a black headlining into my Mimosa Mk3 and although, I agree, it's a bit like being in the Bat Cave (black leather and carpet too), it works for me.... Mind you I haven't got the carpet in yet. It took me ages to work up enough courage to install the headlining, which when I actually got round to it, wasn't that bad. Plenty of clamps, a very warm garage, lots of time and a big portion of patience. Remembering the old addage - measure twice, cut once. Good luck. John
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If the driven plate's worn then so will be the pressure plate - fingers and springs, etc. It really is false economy to try saving the pressure plate. You really don't want to take that 'box out again...... You know it makes sense!!
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My car came equipped with said valances - they were the only panel that wasn't rotten! That said, they don't fit too well either. Whoever first fitted them just drilled through the inner panel and used a large washer to spread the load. I replaced the 2 single washers+nuts with a metal strip onto which I welded two nuts - so just what you're thinking of. It worked well and was easy to locate while assembling. That was OK to get the thing together and MOT'd, it's been off the road for 10+ years and I've been playing with it for just over 2 of those, so quite keen to get it going again. Now I'm going to take them off again to get a proper fit. The n/s is too high, the o/s won't go back far enough to tie in to the wheel arch line of the front wing. That's going to mean cutting out the inner panel and then reglassing it into a more appropriate position. So, I guess the metal versions would fit straight off without having to 'fettle' them, so possibly an easier job than getting these sorted. Plus, the purists would say they have to be metal to keep things original........ Have fun! John PS - there were no earth wires on the sidelight/indicators (no idea how they worked before I got it) so I had to run them through to the chassis to make a circuit.
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Good to see another one being [s]restored[/s] ressurected. Mine was in a similar state when I got it, even down to the Magenta respray, rot and so much bodgy welding..... but then they say it's character building to tackle a job like that and the satisfaction you get when it starts coming together is priceless. So far I've been working on mine for 2 years and it's almost ready to go on the road again (although that doesn't mean it's finished!). Can't wait. Looking forward to watching your progress. Cheers John
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Not wishing to teach granny about sucking eggs but; Don't forget to clean out the oil ways in the head as well. The black gunk has a nasty habit of building up in these and no matter how well you sort the rocker gear it will stop oil reaching it with obvious consequences.... There are 2 oilways - one down from the rearmost pedastal base, one horizontal that can be accessed from the 7/16" set pin to be found at the rear n/s of the head. I cleaned these out but inserting a small drill bit and rotating by hand. I was amazed at just how much crud came out. I started with a small drill and gradually increased size as the passageway got cleared. This is obviously easier to do with the head off, but I'm sure you could do it with it in situ - just need to be careful about dislodged crud going deeper into the oliway if the head's still in place. In that case I guess you could use the starter to spin the engine and any loose crud would be ejected through the open ports by oil pressure. Have fun I'm sure others on here will
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Hi Jon, my car has a 2.5ltr engine and although I'm still in the process of rebuilding I've just got it running - so here's 3 pictures of the installation. As mentioned the car was never supplied with SU's and although mine had them fitted it was obvious that the front damper cap has been in contact with the bonnet - there was a big rust mark and corresponding dent in the bonnet. When I refitted the engine I mounted it as far back and low as possible leaving only aout 2mm clearance for the steering rack. The damper still hit the bonnet - even with it jacked to its maximun at the front. So that meant I had to get the carb tops, pistons and damper arms machined to give clearance. They were reduced by about 14mm as you can see. If you need this doing, please drop me a PM and I'll forward contact details for the guy who did them for me. I'm not sure where the linkage comes from, but my engine (according to it's number) came from a 250S. The bushes are badly worn but I've cobbled it together just to get the thing running (I'm 2 years into the rebuild and some things can wait to be properly fettled until the thing's on the road again!). I had to move the mounting towards the front of the car to clear the 6 branch that I've fitted. This meant making a new actuating arm for the throttle bar. If you need any further info or more specific images please let me know. Cheers John
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OOps! Thanks for the advice Bill - my first job on the car today will be to spin that baby around some! ;) Cheers John
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Result! Here's the finished job - tops, pistons and damper rods all properly reduced and now there's plenty of clearance. If anybody needs similar machining work done then let me know and I'll pass on the contact details of the guy who did this for me - he turned them around in 4 days and made a really nice job. No fuss and good value..... Cheers John
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That's done it for me 185's & 205's it is. 8) Many thanks for taking the time to post these John
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;)6 MONTHS Blimey that will be going it! Good luck......... At least it looks like the inner sill is salvagable, hopefully that trend continues. I started my rebuild 23months ago and have just got the engine back in. Still got to get it running though, then replace all the interior and glass, etc. Winter's coming so dark nights means more opportunity to spend time in the garage. My goal is to get it on the road by next Spring, so maybe at about the same time as you. Cheers John
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Mr Elsie, Do you have a 'photo of your car to share please? I'm just in the process of deciding on tyre sizes to put onto the 5 1/2" wheels I've just bought for my Mk3 GT6. I was thinking about using the same combination as you've got, as the 205.60.13 has just about the same diameter as a 175.70.13, so shouldn't disrupt gearing, etc. How does the steering feel with the slightly wider & lower fronts? Cheers John
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I think your thread title is perfect - Here We Go - that's just what I thought each time I started on a new panel and found more and more of that nasty red stuff called rust. I won't list all the panels that I replaced - I've seen better tubs on sale for less than the panels I bought! Still, it's all worth it when it's all back together and looking like a car again and I'm sure you'll enjoy the process on the way there. I did patch a few areas, but as others have said, in reality it's better and more rewarding to replace where you can. At least you then know that the whole area is sound and can take the necessary steps to protect it for the future. Good luck! Are you up against a deadline, or do you have the luxury of taking your time?
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I can believe that the front end of the rocker cover would be a problem, this one was already well worn on that corner and I took more material off before painting it. Unfortunately the engine wasn't in the car or I might have take a lot more off! Glen, many thanks for the offer of a Dolly Top, but I've found a guy who can machine the top covers, pistons and damper arms, removing about 14mm from their height, which should nicely overcome the problem.... I'll post images once they're in place and pass his contact info to anyone who has a similar issue, just pm me. Thanks John
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Thanks Gentlemen. Yes the inlet manifold is from a GT6 as is the sump - which has been 'relieved' in places to accommodate the extra crank throw. I'll take a look the Stomberg route or there's a pair of Dolly carbs on ebay for £190..... :D John
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My car came with a 2,500 engine and although it was part dismantled and not running I could see that the rocker cover and front carb had been in contact with the bonnet when it had. When refitting the engine I've lowered it as much as possible and made sure it's as far back as it will go. The front of the bonnet is raised to the max and the back edge is in line with the scuttle - so I don't really want to raise it any higher. I've managed to get clearance for the rocker cover, but the front dashpot is still in contact with the bonnet. I understand that carbs from a Dolomite Sprint have shorter dashpots that overcome this problem. There are 5 variants listed on the SU site - hopefully they all share the same shorter dashpot. Any suggestions about where I might be able to get hold of a pair of tops and dampers? I don't really want to buy a complete set of carbs if I can avoid it......
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8) Many thanks John, that's very clear. Once the pipework's sorted I just have to install the carbs and it will be ready to start up - fingers crossed for that !! Cheers John
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John, can I pick your brains about your Golf rad / Astra header tank installation? The header tank has 2 x 8mm outlets ; 1 which is connected to the 17mm outlet on the thermostat cover via a reducer pipe (which I've still to make). I'm assuming that the second one goes to the 8mm outlet on the top offside of the rad? Or have you just blanked these latter two off? Many thanks John
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Thanks for the replies - I'll have another go tomorrow - silicon spray, hot air gun or hair drier (if the wife's out) as I'd be worried about over heating the rubber and deforming it with the hot air gun. Maybe try it out on the old ones first.... I'll let you know if I'm successful J
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The car came with a 2.5 unit fitted from a 250S - more torque but no more power.... it's been fully rebuilt with reground crank, new pistons, lead free valve inserts, etc, etc, so I'm hoping it will be sound once everything's back together. The expansion tank is from an Astra, to go with the Golf rad (purists look away now!) Thanks for the hair dryer tip, I'll give it a go.
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I'm (very slowly) making progress getting the car back together and have just finished replacing parts onto the bulkhed. This includes replacement rubber boots for the brake and clutch master cylinders. But I just can't seem to get them seated properly into the holes above the pedals - After spending hours trying, with lubrication and lots of swearing!! Any advice would be very welcome........... Cheers John
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Wow! I was up early so decided to browse the forum to pass a few minutes...... Then I came across your thread and somehow over an hour's passed!! Congratulations on a splendid job. I'm 750hrs into rebuilding my Mk3, so recognised many of the comments you've made here. There's still some way to go with mine, but I'm mightily encouraged to see what you've achieved. Cheers John