MK3
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Everything posted by MK3
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1684 wrote:With the plastic floats you have to add/remove the washers under the needle valve to get the right gap ah right, thanks, that makes sense, not sure there are any on mine. Are they available from the usuals ?
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According to Haynes the gap between the machined edge of the float lid and the top of the float when turned upside down should be about 3.175mm or the thickness of a 1/8" drill bit So I checked one of mine today and its much smaller (see photo) and as far as I can see there is no adjustment on my float as it doesn't have a spring arm, its all plastic including where the pivot is. The only way to get that gap that I can think of is to replace the needle valve (which the float rests on) or that the plastic part of the float where the needle valve touches has become worn ? Any ideas ?
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Has anyone had theirs powder coated, should look nice, I could get mine done when I get the steel wheels powder coated. Are there any downsides to consider vs ordinary silver paint and laquer ?
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Hi, thanks for that, sounds about right, however mine still has the ign key on the dash
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Nick_B. wrote:Hi This is what a 1970 spitfire mk 3 engine rocker cover would look like. Cheers Nick Yes that's the shape of mine too. It is slightly different, than the later models. Mine is FD91000+ so I guess it should be Silver, any particular shade ? It also has steel wheels in Silver that are also peeling .. is that colour correct for a late Mk3 Spit ?
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I think your rocker cover is different to a MK3, mine hasn't got a lump in the middle where the breather pipe is. Can you post some more photos ? thanks
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7378 wrote:I think they were the same as the MK IV which you can see below, the original colour was silver - again for the MK iV - The one in the picture has been powder coated but I no longer use it as I went alloy, you can have it for £15 plus postage if you want it. I can send you some more photo's if you like. Hi, let me check its the same shape as my tatty one and I'll get back to you thanks
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The engine rocker cover on my 1970 MK3 Spit is rusty and peeling and looks like its been hand painted silver at some time. It also has mismatched studs holding it down. What is the correct original colour, has anyone got any photos of an original or restored to spec cover ? thanks
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that's great, thank you for the photos
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that's great, thank you for the photos
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On a late MK3 Spitfire where should the engine earth strap be ? Mine has a 2ft long braided strap going from the back of the head all the way across the front of the battery box to the bolt that earths the battery to the bulkhead which looks silly. Surely it should be shorter and neater than that ? Can anyone post a photo. thanks
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On a late MK3 Spitfire where should the engine earth strap be ? Mine has a 2ft long braided strap going from the back of the head all the way across the front of the battery box to the bolt that earths the battery to the bulkhead which looks silly. Surely it should be shorter and neater than that ? Can anyone post a photo. thanks
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Is the pivot arm moving when you press the clutch ? If not the pivot bush marked on this photo may be stuck :( Sorry , link no longer available
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Possibly the clutch plate is stuck to the flywheel ? it can happen after being laid up over a winter in damp conditions. Take your handbrake off, put the car in gear and try to start it. Sometimes the sudden application of torque from the engine will free the clutch plate with a bang. The car will jolt forward or backwards so be ready with the brakes or alternatively jack up the rear end on axle stands.
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OK thanks for the info, have just ordered 4x BP6ES Thanks guys
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Standard MK3 Spitfire due a new set of Spark Plugs. Paddocks have 3 offerings for the MK3 1300 engine : NGK Dual Copper RN9Y, Motorcraft Autolite RN9YT triple electrode and a Champion N9YC I would normally go with the old fashioned N9YC but has anyone tried the triple electrode or the NGK and thinks its a better plug ?
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I got new piston seals and replaced the calliper seal between the two halves of the calliper. What torque setting should I use on the bolts that hold the 2 halves of the calliper together ?
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3182 wrote:BTW, if you do a search for 'buckeye triumph brakes' google should get you a page showing caliper rebuild of a TR with lots of pics. Not exactlly the same calipers but almost and very informative! http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Front/Front.htm found it, thank you
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The brake system is in bits at the moment so I will temp bolt a calliper to the o/s bracket and couple it direct to the rebuilt master cylinder with a spare pipe and try to get the pistons out with hydraulic pressure. If that fails then I'll perhaps have to split the callipers. Has anyone got the part number / supplier of the calliper seals if I do have to split them ?
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6797 wrote:Dunno about in Triumph land, but when I've done Landy callipers I've bought a couple of spare gallery seals and split the calliper to make it easier to get the pistons out/seals in. I have to admit I had thought of doing that but every book says don't do it.
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I am trying to remove the pistons on a pair of MK3 Spit brake callipers that have never been used for about 10 years. I want to fit new seal kits. I have the callipers off the car and on the bench but there is no room to get a pair of grips in to grab hold of the pistons so I can twist them out. Should I connect them back to the brake line and use hydraulic pressure to try to force them out ? Or maybe a foot pump using air pressure ? They look very rusty but I think they sit just in a rubber seal within the calliper so although they look seized they should come out ?
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Another good bleeding has got the air out and it feels, and works, fine now. Thanks for the tips.
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Yes, new kits in the master and slave cylinder. Both were seized through lack of use over the years so I "reamed" them lightly in a circular motion with some emery paper to clean the crud out before re-assembly. Now the piston slides as it should. I haven't seen any leaks past the seals as yet so it should be OK. Thanks for the tip I'll have a look for bubbles in the integral reservoir when we bleed it again. I'm contemplating taking the slave out of the housing when I bleed it next time and try to push the piston back in if I can with the pedal on the floor just in case there is any air trapped in it.
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I'm not convinced all the air is out of the system yet. I'll have another go at bleeding it and then look at the slave cylinder positioning.
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I have just replaced the gbox with an OD box so all interior is still out, master and slave cyls rebuilt, new hydraulic pipe fitted and reverse bled clutch back into the reservoir but not happy with it, feels spongy. Bleed nipple is at the top, supply pipe to the bottom on the slave cyl. Any hints on bleeding a MK3 Spitfire clutch ?