MK3
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Everything posted by MK3
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Be careful not to increase cables / sizes too much. If you make the wrapped harness too thick it may not go through grommets so you need to plan
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Thanks guys, looks like changing the UJ flange is the easiest option .. if only I'd checked before I replaced them ..... Am I right that the "spring" end of the prop is to the rear ?
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So I removed the old MK3 Spit gearbox and prop to be replaced with an D type overdrive gearbox and prop. Fitted new UJ's to the new prop and have just tried to fit the prop back to the diff but the bolts are 9/16" on the new prop whereas they were 1/2" on the old prop which means they won't connect to the diff flange. The old prop had the sliding collar and the new shorter prop has the "spring" arrangement next to one of the UJ's. The guy I got the box/prop off used to have a Spitfire and GT6 so I guess this is a MK4 prop with bigger flanges ? So I can either 1. remove the flange from the diff and drill the holes bigger (assuming the flange is big enough) 2. as above but fit a diff flange with the 9/16" holes instead (and do the oil seal while its off) 3. dismantle the rear UJ on the new prop that I have just replaced and fit a flange off the old prop which has the 1/2" bolts sizes in its place Any suggestions which is the route to go down and ideas what car this D type box and prop came off ? The prop flange fits the D Type box flange so all is well at that end. Its just the diff end that is different. I assume the end of the prop with the spring arrangement is the diff end ?
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Thanks I see GL5 is defined as "Heavy Use" gear oil http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear_oil Whats the practical difference in using GL4 vs GL5 ?
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Hi guys, is it EP80/90 oil in a Spit MK3 gearbox with overdrive or engine oil ?
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Yup you're right, it shouldn't move much with that diff mounting plate arrangement, hence why the exhaust is bolted to it. thanks
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JensH wrote:There is a rubber grommet between. Diff shouldn't move that much! A diff moves quite a bit, hence why the prop has universal joints: http://www.youtube.com/embed/tN-4LLAKlpw
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Thanks, I'm surprised bracket 17 is fastened to the Diff though and not the chassis as the diff moves up & down and the other 2 fixings on the bellhousing and rear valance don't ?
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Where should a standard exhaust be fastened on a late MK3 Spitfire ? I assume a strap/U-Clamp onto the bellhousing and a rubber "bobbin" mount on the rear valance ?
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Wow you're not kidding, angle drives are about £33 + vat plus I guess I will need a longer speedo cable to go with it ? I know the MK3 Spitfire has a column operated OD Switch/Lever, and probably a modified steering cowl but can you fit a MK4 gear lever & switch to a MK3 3 rail box by just replacing the gear lever & knob or is the remote control housing different on a MK4 ?
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Ah right, I have seen the 1-piece mounts on eBay but thought they were for later models, thanks for clearing that up. So all I need to do now is find the support plate C ... or make one.
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I have removed the original gearbox from our '70 MK3 and have a gearbox with D Type o/d ready to drop in. I'm trying to work out which rear mounting bracket is needed. From the image below it appears that the original chassis plate is now redundant and replaced by a smaller one (C) and the O/D mount comes in 2 pieces (A + B) or do I just need items (22) and (23) shown here on SC Parts diag : http://www.scparts.co.uk/index/lang-2/lkz-195/markenid-5/katnr-252/kat_sprache-2/hrubnr-1890/rubrik-6055/index.php?tpl=clickable_vertikal.tpl&marker=23#23
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heraldcoupe wrote:If you're rebuilding the slave cylinder then you'll be rebuilding the master cylinder at the same time. If not, then you should be. This will leave the (usually undamaged) old boot from the master cylinder as a spare. It will fit in place of the metal cap on the slave, though you usually have to fit the cylinder through it's mounting bracket before fitting the boot, then fit the bracket back onto the bellhousing, Cheers, Bill. Hi Bill yes I'm rebuilding both master cylinders, still waiting for the repair kits to come ... good idea thanks
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1684 wrote:Use a rubber one that was my question .. from what model ?
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The metal Dust Cover Retainer (cap) on my MK3 Spitfire Clutch Slave Cylinder has been torn when I removed it. As far as I can tell they are not included in the Slave Cylinder Repair kits. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Will a rubber one from another model / car fit or any ideas who sells them ?
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Ignition Timing explained : http://custompistols.com/cars/articles/ignition_timing.htm Its with regard to an MGB so remember to use the Spitfire specs instead but its good background and practical info on how to time an engine
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Managed to pry the skin flange back using a combination of screwdrivers and cold chisels after grinding the tack welds off. A good bit of twisting followed and now it fits perfect. Thanks for the suggestions guys, much appreciated.
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Managed to pry the skin flange back using a combination of screwdrivers and cold chisels after grinding the tack welds off. A good bit of twisting followed and now it fits perfect. Thanks for the suggestions guys, much appreciated.
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JensH wrote:They are usually soft like ... but you will have to take out all window-parts. I have done it a few times with a bar mounted at the rear window channel. But: Is the door skin original? Is the outer sill and front rear wing (aka dog leg) correct fitted? HI, the tub is completely stripped incl the doors, the shell has A and B Post, heel panels repaired, new floor, inner cill and strengthener and we are now trying to get the bottom of the door nearest to the B post to line up with the top of the outer sill before we fasten the outer cill in place. Everything that has been replaced is lined up perfectly, but its the door frame that is twisted. We can see that just by looking at it hence why I'd like to loosen the skin and twist the frame out at the top before tacking the skin back on. Its a shame to ruin a skin with an angle grinder just to straighten the frame. I wondered if anyone has tried this before and managed it ?
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JensH wrote:They are usually soft like ... but you will have to take out all window-parts. I have done it a few times with a bar mounted at the rear window channel. But: Is the door skin original? Is the outer sill and front rear wing (aka dog leg) correct fitted? HI, the tub is completely stripped incl the doors, the shell has A and B Post, heel panels repaired, new floor, inner cill and strengthener and we are now trying to get the bottom of the door nearest to the B post to line up with the top of the outer sill before we fasten the outer cill in place. Everything that has been replaced is lined up perfectly, but its the door frame that is twisted. We can see that just by looking at it hence why I'd like to loosen the skin and twist the frame out at the top before tacking the skin back on. Its a shame to ruin a skin with an angle grinder just to straighten the frame. I wondered if anyone has tried this before and managed it ?
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I think its 1cm, possibly 2cm. I have tried fastening a 2x3 vertically on the inside of the door frame near the lock and pulling the top / pushing the bottom but the skin and door frame together are just too strong to move. Hence why I want to loosen the skin - then the frame will have to move.
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I think its 1cm, possibly 2cm. I have tried fastening a 2x3 vertically on the inside of the door frame near the lock and pulling the top / pushing the bottom but the skin and door frame together are just too strong to move. Hence why I want to loosen the skin - then the frame will have to move.
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As part of the body resto I'd like to loosen the Spitfire MK3 door skin while on the car so I can straighten the door frame which is kicking out at the bottom 1cm. Its def the door frame as I can see the twist in it. Has anyone done this successfully and if so how ? There isn't a lot of space between the door frame and the skin edge to get anything in there to pull the skin flange back. Is the skin spot welded to the door frame or just tacked ? Any advice on how to loosen the skin most appreciated. All I can find on the i*net is people cutting off the old skin with an angle grinder and fitting a new one.
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As part of the body resto I'd like to loosen the Spitfire MK3 door skin while on the car so I can straighten the door frame which is kicking out at the bottom 1cm. Its def the door frame as I can see the twist in it. Has anyone done this successfully and if so how ? There isn't a lot of space between the door frame and the skin edge to get anything in there to pull the skin flange back. Is the skin spot welded to the door frame or just tacked ? Any advice on how to loosen the skin most appreciated. All I can find on the i*net is people cutting off the old skin with an angle grinder and fitting a new one.