MK3
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Everything posted by MK3
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I have just replaced mine, see my last post here how I did it => Sorry , link no longer available
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OK, thanks for the advice, I'll put it back as standard and see how it looks and then decide, cheers
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Well in the summer I replaced the front dampers and springs with new ones, standard length, spec etc. The old ones had been chopped 2" at the top, so when I'm short of something to do I could always chop the new ones down by 2" ?
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While I have the diff and rear spring out on my MK3 Spitfire, is it worth putting in a 1/2" lowering block while I'm at it. The car will only ever be used as a road car, no track days etc. At this stage I won't be making any changes to the front setup, maybe in the future but not now. So is it worth doing or am I wasting my time and money without other mods ? If so, who sells the cheapest lowering blocks or do you get them made ? thanks
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Tried all sorts of pullers on the output shaft to get the bearing off but the mounting plate was beginning to bend so resorted to a strong vice and a BFH - copper one - couple of "taps" and it was out and not a single mark on the splines. :) All back assembled and ready for back in. But before I do that I might as well take the rest of the suspension off on both sides and check the bushes and UJ's are OK.
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Input oil seal done, casing paper gasket done, the split pin breather was stuck solid so freed that up too, thanks for the tip, just the output seals now when I can get a decent puller. The car is a late '70 MK3 so I presume it has the stronger output shafts, thanks Paul Anyone know what the bearing number would be should I need a replacement ? thanks
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Diff manual posted online showing breather hole http://www.triumphspitfire.com/images/pdf/DiffTSTN.pdf I can't find SKF 6502 bearing on that web site, is that the right number for the output shaft bearing - if I need one ?
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The diff is caked in fresh oil and dirt so its leaking oil from somewhere but generally it tends to be the input oil seal on diffs that leak. And as it's now off the car it's too late to wipe it, run it and check it. So although I have 3 new seals and a paper gasket, if removing the bearings off the shaft is troublesome, should I just change the input seal and leave the output seals alone and see if any leak. If one does then it's not a huge job to uncouple a half shaft UJ and pull out the leaking output shaft and tackle the seal at that time ?
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Will one of these 6" pullers be able to remove the bearing on a MK3 Spitfire Diff output shaft ? Or will it require a commercial / garage press to do it ?
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4526 wrote:got this one in today, could instantly feel that it was better quality (hope it is now ) Only need to put it on the car, but noticed i need to screw the U clamp to all the way back, but then the clevis pin can't go in... :o So i need to cut a piece of the threads it seems.. Maybe change the front seal of the master also to a lucas one, so then the rubber boot fits over it again :) looks good, I may need one as my original failed with a leak in the summer, Where did you get that one from ? Is it the same unit for a MK3 Spit ?
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796 wrote:Twin ex, like yours, but with a 4 inch x 3 fut mid silencer = 57DB at 4K revs as tested at Doune hill climb, v v quiet, ev a listen, changed at 5.5 too https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=T7XsQymCXy0#t=97 M That sounds much better, do you have a make / model of the mid box or a link to one being advertised ? thanks
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I have a 4 branch manifold and this stainless twin box exhaust on my MK3 Spitfire and to say it's loud is an understatement. It makes an EVO sound like a Prius ! So I am thinking of putting a middle box / resonator ? just in front of the Y and wanted to ask if anyone can recommend a not too expensive box available in UK that will fit in between the chassis rails and will turn this very noisy exhaust into a Sporty noise. The bore diameter is 45mm / 1 3/4" thanks
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OK, thanks, from memory I think it has BO needles in at present, not knowing the history of the car I'm not sure if these are the right ones or if a PO has changed to them or even if the engine has been modified at all .. - it's a 1970 MK3 1300 with 4 branch manifold and a very loud 1 into 2 straight through ss exhaust with twin silencers at the back which I think could do with a single central box "resonator ?" in the middle to tone it down a bit
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I suspected worn jets and/or needles to begin with but thought I'd check the float levels first and eliminate them as I saw a pool of fuel across the bridge. I have made some packing washers out of gasket material so now the float levels are correct. I suspect it is the jets that are worn, I swapped the pistons & needles from a spare set of HS2's and it's still running rich. So that only leaves the jets - do the jets and needles wear together or are the needles hardened ? The choke is adjusted correctly and not sticking on.
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My Mk3 1300 is running very rich, I have the jet adjusting nut all the way to the top and it's still way too rich. I checked both float levels and they are miles out, too high, so they need adjusting. The floats are the Plastic variety, so the needle valve casing needs a spacer washer under it to give the 3.12mm correct float height. I checked both carbs and there are no spacers under either. I have browsed Burlen and a couple of Triumph suppliers but all I can see are complete gasket or rebuild "kits" Any ideas what size of washer I need to give the correct float setting and where I can get 2 from ? thanks
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Vapour lock ?
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Mallard wrote:What are the insurance implications of replacing the original engine with a souped-up modern one? Presumably in insurance terms the car would not be considered to be worth very much? Good, question, so I just called my insurers and asked for a quote with a 1.7 Zetec and Type 9 box and uprated brakes and they quoted me an extra £77 per annum premium. So not bad at all. Can't see it affecting the value of the car overall and the original engine/box could be put back in if needed for a sale
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1381 wrote: +1. I'm not sure I'd want much more power/torque than my EFI 1500 engine has, it already leaves most normal modern cars behind given the car's good power/weight ratio. Hi, what setup have you got, a standard Spitfire 1500 engine with throttle bodies and MegaSquirt ? What BHP & Torque did you get ? If applied to a 1296 how would that translate ? I think you'll have a different gearbox to my MK3 with OD so not sure mine could handle a big increase in power ? If it could, can the ratio's on my MK3 box be changed to accommodate the extra ?
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2402 wrote:Hi Im doing the Zetec se conversion. Its very cheap, needs no mods to the chassis and only minor mods to the tub. The most expensive part is the bell housing which in £200 from shawspeed or RWDmotorsport. Everything else can be done cheap. For more info read my thread in the specials section or pm me for specific details. I even have a spare set of engine mounts. Every thing else can be bought off the shelf. Chris. Hi Chris I just had a chat with my local garage and they recommended the same solution, 1.7 all alloy Zetec SE from a Puma 123bhp standard weighing in at just 90Kg and it looks small enough to fit without a lot of work. Can use the ECU and wiring harness from the car too. Add a Swirl pot and fuel line return to the tank etc. And it can be tuned further if needed up to 200bhp but 150bhp would be ample so it doesn't blow the diff I will have a read of your thread and get some more info Are Type 9 gearboxes still the way to go with the above bespoke Bellhousing or are there any alternative solutions ?
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Thanks for the comments guys, very useful stuff. Do any of the Zetec engines mentioned need a lump in the bonnet for clearance ? Is the 2.0 worth the extra 15 bhp, I presume it's heavier than the 1.8 ? If I went the MX5 or Zetec route any idea what front coil springs it would need ? I assume GT6 front brakes are better than the Spitfires or aftermarket as you say, what about the rear brakes .. is there an easy disk brake option from another car ? Any changes needed to the rear spring setup or height ? Did anyone put on wider rims and tyres if so what hubs can be used and would they need bodywork changes ? If at all possible I'd like to use easily sourced parts from other cars rather than specialist solutions
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I have a MK3 Spitfire down to a bare chassis and am tempted to replace the engine, gearbox, axle, suspension and brakes with something more modern and make the necessary changes to the chassis and bodywork to accommodate. The aim being to leave it still looking like a MK3 Spitfire but from a driveability perspective it would be more powerful and modern. I'm not concerned with retaining originality or going with a Triumph 6 engine etc. What engine, gearbox, axle, suspension and brakes would you recommend going for ? I assume a modern 4 cylinder would be an easier conversion and require less bodywork changes. I'm looking for something that would give really good performance but still be economical to drive due to the power to weight ratio. Any suggestions ?
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Hi, yes that's all been cleaned and the diaphragm is good
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esxefi wrote:I would run it for a while first as you say. also worth checking the crankcase breather hoses as oil can sit in these and be sucked into the engine when it gets hot especially as it has been sitting around for a long time. Hi, thanks, I can only see one short hose from the rocker cover to a large valve on top of the inlet manifold. I replaced that one. Are there others I should check ? It's a 1296cc engine, single spring valves
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My MK3 Spit hasn't run on the road for about 10 years, which is soon to be corrected as I got it through the MOT last week :) But I've noticed a reasonable amount of smoke coming out the exhaust after it's been at idle and then revved up. I'm probably not going to do anything about it for a while until I've put some miles on it but if it's oil seeping past the inlet valves, I believe Canleys stock valve stem oil seals to cure this: http://www.canleyclassics.com/searchforapart/?desc=&ptno=HR631 I'd prefer not to have to remove the cylinder head so did a quick google and came across this .. Quote:If you've got a adapter for the plug hole , compressed air will hold the valve closed . But is not foolproof , you slip and the valve can drop . Foolproof method is to bring the cylinder almost to TDC and feed some small dia. rope into plug hole then bring the piston up further to compress the rope against the valves lightly by hand ! only ! . Then just back the piston back down a little to get the rope back out , After you've changed seals or springs and put your retainers back on and have removed the tool , give the valve stem tip a smack with a small ball peen hammer to make sure the retainers are seated , Don't beat it , just a sharp smack will do Do one cylinder at a time and you can make a quick job of it . Used to get paid 8hrs labor to replace valve seals in 4cyl Camry's , got it down to a 45 min. project ... Has anyone replaced valve springs / added stem seals while the head was still on the engine using either compressed air or this rope trick ?
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junkuser wrote:As a heavy wire is being run from battery to lamp via relay for the switched side of the circuit, would it not be a good idea to do the same for the un-switched side to the lamp holder/plug? No that's the whole point of using relays. The on/off switch has very low current passing through it as it only switches the relay coil on/off hence the switch doesn't burn out and lasts longer. Check your modern car fuse box, it will have loads of relays exactly for that reason.