Eternal optimist
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Thanks - I'll have a closer look at the handle and the original when I get a minute. The locking handle is a repro and if it's the same with Triumph stuff as VW it's not possible to switch the barrels between repro and OG bits - I spent an age scouring t'internet for NOS handles for the VW I restored so I could get everything on one key. Keen to do the same on this one if I can, but with a bit of luck, I'll not get too obsessive about it....
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Greetings. Just had some shiny stuff arrive from Rimmers comprising a pair of replacement tailgate handles for an estate. Question - has anyone managed to extract the barrel from the new and fit the old one? I'm keen to keep one key for all locks if possible.
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I did about 40,000 miles over 18 months in a Smart ForFour - no problem with the seats at all.
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timbancroft61 wrote: Have you tried the Standard Motor Club? Yes, I'm a member; the forum is not as 'busy' as this one is, and I suspect there's more experience here of improving the engine than on the Standard forum What I'm hearing is Spit III head and cam; 4/2/1 manifold and dizzy to match when I rebuild the engine.
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1337 wrote:Might need to think again about the diff. If you mean it has the smaller inner half shafts, it wouldn't even like a standard 1300 for very long. Serial number? C. I specifically chose it because it has the small splines - that's what the Ten halfshafts use. I'm not planning on taking it drag racing.
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heraldcoupe wrote: I would certainly be prepared to test fit everything before buying in unnecessary parts though I like your approach
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herald948 wrote:Darn! At one time, I swear I saw something that explained why the change of stub axle was necessary, but darned if I know where I saw it! That said, I think it might have been an issue of length...and I think I'd err on the side of caution and make the change. If anyone is interested in the original directions, they are here: http://www.fairpoint.net/~herald948/database/discbrak.htm It might be me, but I don't think the link works?
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I guess I ought to give Canley Classics a call on Monday. As far as I know, the early Heralds could be converted to discs using caliper brackets that use the same mounting points as the backplate; and that a disc brake hub is used on the early stub axle. I think.
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cliftyhanger wrote:Thinking about this, the Weber may not be ideal. A single hif44 carb on a dolly 1300 inlet manifold is compact and simple, plus easy to set up and will be good for more power than I suspect you are looking at. Just a thought. As to track days, the way to learn is to have a go. The ct one is excellent, now done 3 and enjoyed every minute. As has the lady wife. And we were both first timers, who greatly benefitted from the safe, friendly setup and the informal tuition. I know a single carb would be easier, but I've already got the weber and it looks cool. It's a slippery slope, I'm building a pair of aircooled efi engines, one will go in my vw splitscreen, one will be sold to recoup some of the money I've spent...
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4058 wrote:A small crank motor in good state, will be a huge improvement to the 10, but if you go further and "tweak it" you will have to think about the other parts, gearbox, brakes, axle etc etc. I have just started to strip my 1300 small crank for a full rebuild, and a big tweak! I have started a thread, but it will be a slow progress at the moment, due to work in the house taking priority (got to keep the boss happy!) ;) I've got a Herald gearbox, 4.11:1 small spline diff and will be fitting discs. I'll keep my eye on your thread.
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Thanks all, helpful. I'll have a read through the link. The idea is fast road; whilst I like the idea of track days, my enthusiasm is in excess of my talent. A bit of coaching might help...
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I've got a small crank 1300 engine I'm planning to use in a Standard Ten. I can hear the sound of a can of worms being opened as I type this, but what would your recommendations be around the best exhaust manifold head and cam to use? I'm probably not helping matters by choosing to use a single 45DCOE, but I already have it and space is a bit tight for twin carbs. Thoughts?
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I'm using early Herald drum brake suspension uprights on my Standard Ten and will (probably) be using Canley's aluminium caliper brackets with type 14 calipers. I notice that the stub axles appear to have different part numbers between the drum braked cars and those with discs - will the disc brake hubs I've just bought fit the drum brake stub axles??
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