Paul Garvey
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Everything posted by Paul Garvey
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Hi all, one of the gearboxes I have has an (extra?) rod attached to the end hole in the pivot lever (always wondered what that was for) to a spring and finally to a bracket attached on the rear gearbox casing. There is also a slave cylinder mounting bracket attachment with a hole for the rod to pass through. I didn't attach the spring very well for the photo as it's more to give an idea of what it looks like but the fit and look seem to be 'factory' but I've never seen one before. I expect it's to give a faster clutch disengagement? Should it be there? Also the slave cylinder charging arm on the same car had been lengthened .5" or so. I expect to give a faster clutch engagement? Not sure if I should use that? Many thanks
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Done it....1.5 hours, borrowed digital heat gun - whacked up to 500 degrees - that and vice grips 1/8", repeat to keep heat up, repeat....worst job ever done on a car - hands will be aching tomorrow but now it's Beer o'clock... Thanks people for your help - BEWARE Red Loctite and his evil twin Overtorque!
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Heat, heat and more heat - no, Rost Off Ice - no, Stilsons - no. I'd try the ATF-acetone mix if the - no-gearbox - engine angle didn't mean it would just ide off with gravity rather than sit and penetrate. I think the previous owner must have cross-threaded and made up for it with a bucket load of Red Loctite so thinking it'll be an engine out jobbie/strip and unfortunately I don't have the enthusiasm for that much of a step backwards again - restored x3 cars before this and this one has been the restoration from hell - definitely put me off ever doing another. Fortunately I've a triple garage and only the Spitty in it so think I'll just walk away for a few months and then decide what to do - mind you I can't wait too long as is Red Stickered for demolition post Earthquake so has to come down with short notice - which is why no other cars in it.
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Yes, way too much Loctite used and far too much torque. I'll have a go in the weekend and post the results...thank you all much appreciated.
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Mmm...I rang a local specialist Triumph mechanic and my local mechanic. They both advised not to use excessive heat as will damage the rear seal. They both suggested a few days with WD40 then spray onto the bolt a Wurth product called Rost Off Ice - essentially it's dry ice with a pentrating compound. Certainly a different approach so will see if the local Wurth distributor has any. They both also liked 'cam-lock' stud removers but doubted I'd have enough length to use one effectively.
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Thanks all, I'll borrow a set of Stilsons and have a go on the weekend then if that doesn't work have a go with the mig and weld on a nut. If that doesn't work I can hire an oxy-acetylene setup and put in some 'extreme' heat, however wouldn't this damage the rear seal??? I haven't heard of electrospark so will have a look locally and see if there's anyone who could come out
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Sorry 'rounded' bolt.
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'Fun-times'...serves me right for taking on an 'un-finished project'... I've just replaced the stripped front oil sealing block with a cnc steel one and now onto the clutch and found a stripped flywheel bolt so thought best to fix and check the torque settings. I don't know what grade or how much loc-tight used or torque settings but it hasn't been fun - in fact it's been worse than replacing the oil sealing block from under the car. I managed to remove three of the flywheel bolts with a long breaker bar - but the last one...I tried heat, direct hit with hammer and breaker bar - no luck so ground off the top off the bolt, took off the flywheel and....heat, hammer and big vice grips - still no luck. I could try an easy out but I'm not convinced it'd work as it's so tight and the only option seems to be to drill it out - no something I'm keen on doing. Anyone got any suggestions? Paul
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Great - thanks for that - appreciated
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Great - thanks for that - appreciated
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Someone surely must know - I haven't been able to find anything on a forum search or via internet and don't want to fork out 60 pound + freight to NZ on something that'll either not fit or cause grief once in. Thanks
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Someone surely must know - I haven't been able to find anything on a forum search or via internet and don't want to fork out 60 pound + freight to NZ on something that'll either not fit or cause grief once in. Thanks
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Hi all, I've the sump off my Mk2 Spitfire to sort an oil leak by replacing the (stripped thread) alloy oil sealing block with a machined steel one and while off I may as well replace the early oil pump to a later 1500 angled one - is this a straight swap and is there anything I should be aware of? An angled pump will also allow me to (finally) bolt up a spare sump I have that's been baffled with a windage tray...err...2 years ago. Thanks
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Hi all, I've the sump off my Mk2 Spitfire to sort an oil leak by replacing the (stripped thread) alloy oil sealing block with a machined steel one and while off I may as well replace the early oil pump to a later 1500 angled one - is this a straight swap and is there anything I should be aware of? An angled pump will also allow me to (finally) bolt up a spare sump I have that's been baffled with a windage tray...err...2 years ago. Thanks
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I know - awful job that's why I've been putting off for ages...I've wood end seals so expect will be a lot easier than rubber!
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I know - awful job that's why I've been putting off for ages...I've wood end seals so expect will be a lot easier than rubber!
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Thanks, I was tempted with a steel one but they're a bit pricey.
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Thanks, I was tempted with a steel one but they're a bit pricey.
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No - haven't started as yet and was hoping for a 'quickfix' from underneath, but reading the replies think I'll do it once and do it right and get the missing duplex cam sprocket, remove radiator, put on axle stands and get into it - put in the duplex timing and replacement alloy sealing block all at the same time.
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No - haven't started as yet and was hoping for a 'quickfix' from underneath, but reading the replies think I'll do it once and do it right and get the missing duplex cam sprocket, remove radiator, put on axle stands and get into it - put in the duplex timing and replacement alloy sealing block all at the same time.
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Thanks, I've accumulated a couple of spare alloy blocks so don't need to helicoil. I've been putting off as didn't want to 'bust a gut' on the crank nut. I've 'half' the duplex set up for a small crank so looks like I may as well put off of a while and splash out on the outstanding duplex cam sprocket and do it all in one go. In my 'parts bin' I've a mint Mk2 sump (sorry - mine's a Mk2 Spitfire) with the mesh still in one piece and will put that on as well - any suggestions for cleaning out?
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Thanks, I've accumulated a couple of spare alloy blocks so don't need to helicoil. I've been putting off as didn't want to 'bust a gut' on the crank nut. I've 'half' the duplex set up for a small crank so looks like I may as well put off of a while and splash out on the outstanding duplex cam sprocket and do it all in one go. In my 'parts bin' I've a mint Mk2 sump (sorry - mine's a Mk2 Spitfire) with the mesh still in one piece and will put that on as well - any suggestions for cleaning out?
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Time to sort the leak once and for all...quick question before I start - do I have to remove the timing cover to replace the sealing block (Stripped thread). Thanks
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Time to sort the leak once and for all...quick question before I start - do I have to remove the timing cover to replace the sealing block (Stripped thread). Thanks
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Agree with Chris. Paul