Paul Garvey
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Everything posted by Paul Garvey
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Well done!
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Yep - one of the not so fun aspects of restoring in NZ/Aust...freight costs more than parts. I was quoted 140 pound delivery for a boot rack....just as well I'm not that keen on them!
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Ah - many thanks for the photos. I'm putting GT6 quarterlights in my Mk2 Spitfire so very helpful as looks like the fat portion of the p seal provides sealing for the outter of the quarterlight - rather than middle. If fitting to a std Mk3 I expect would provide sealing for the outter of the window. IE: when the door is closing the window 'rolls' under the p seal. May be wrong but would make sense.
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Ah - many thanks for the photos. I'm putting GT6 quarterlights in my Mk2 Spitfire so very helpful as looks like the fat portion of the p seal provides sealing for the outter of the quarterlight - rather than middle. If fitting to a std Mk3 I expect would provide sealing for the outter of the window. IE: when the door is closing the window 'rolls' under the p seal. May be wrong but would make sense.
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Bill at Rarebits4classics.co.uk is your man for correct extrusions. Scroll down the opening page on his website - worth doing.
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Bill at Rarebits4classics.co.uk is your man for correct extrusions. Scroll down the opening page on his website - worth doing.
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Have a look at VTO wheels...they have a similar style - if not better - but they're in the states.
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Lots of very positive comments on this forum about Mintex 1144's but I ended up going for a set of Hawk semi-race from Cambridge Motorsport. Other 'known' brands available but they start getting up in price and/or more for track than road.
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Mine's pretty good so will give it a go - thanks
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Wow - at that price maybe take them into a trimmers and have cushions made? They can use different densities for different section to make them far better than any stock foam you may find.
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Banjo or sprung - there seems to be a few names for the Mk1/2 Spitfire original steering wheels; the ones that look (or are?) the same as the 2 litre Vitesse and TR4. I've just bought one for $20 NZ (10 pound) and it's great aside from a few chips and a couple of cracks where the chromed steel 'rods' meet the rim and I'd like to fill these with something sandable before painting or powder coating. I'm not sure if body filler would do the trick. A bit of a search on the net has offered up an Eastwood repair kit (epoxy) with other sites saying not to use epoxy, a POR15 steering wheel repair kit (pricey), JB Weld and via a morrie minor site 'burning' with a torch (not keen as not sure the wheel is the same material). Paint or powder coat? Has anyone done one? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
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Mystery solved :-)
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Mystery solved :-)
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Enough copper pipe to make a still - hence the title. Bought a couple of 'extra' Mk2 Spitfires a couple of weeks ago and one has a GA block with this remote oil filter setup. There are three feeds tapped into the block (not counting the removed oil temp/gauge combo feed). One is direct from the rocker cover (with a tap) - the other two are from the remote. Bit of a 'spagetti junction' and never seen the like before so had to share. For all the thought and trouble I can only wonder why the original Mk2 engine wasn't kept...
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Consider tapping the rear casing for a drain plug while you're at it. Paul
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VTO are based in the States and may be worth a call even if x4 rather than x5 spoke? http://64.27.130.204/?portfolio=14x5-5-retro-4-black-special-drilled-22
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Hi Nick, try The Roadster Factory in the states for the grommet, I'm sure I got mine there. Paul
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Which way around does the bulkhead solenoid go? Wires to the front or back? Thanks
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Yes - copper grease but I nearly forgot in the relief of the moment.
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Followed your advice wasn't as easy though and took four attempts... By the last attempt I decided trying to be gentle to look after the new chassis and diff paint wasn't going to work and let fly with a decent sized ballpein hammer and bashed the sh*t out of the hanger openings (yes I admit I was pretty steamed by then) followed by a crowbar to pry open the rear hanger slots a little more (those red polybushes are very unforgiving) and lastly lots and lots of some sort of body oil 'borrowed' from my wife all over the hanger slots, diff rear bushes...jack... tools... floor... overalls - makes a hell of a mess but car and garage smells the best it ever has and even better - it worked! I never want to replace another diff on my own again...now just have to get the oil and dirt marks off what's left in the oil bottle and sneak it back.... Thanks guys - much appreciated.
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I've swapped a few diffs on my own before but this time I'm struggling (more than usual). I've replaced with red polybushes and for the life of me I can't get the rear lugs into the chassis slots....lots of swearing trying to push the blasted thing in while balanced on a trolly-jack and near the end two jacks. Body gave up in the end which is just as well as between holding it, pushing and worrying about the car coming off the axle stands with my effots one of us was going to loose big time. I'm thinking the polybushes may be slightly 'fatter' and a lot more 'unforgiving'. So...ideas pleeease....
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Is that a Satin finish on the BRG GT6? Looks great.
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nang - I've had all my powder coating there for various restorations so at around $200 I may be being 'looked after' - however give them a call and have a chat. They're really sold on it as far as heat and flow benefits - the inside is coated as well.
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As far as exhaust wrap - I'm not a big fan as there's better ideas out there such as ceramic coating which seems the way to go eg: http://www.elitepowdercoating.co.nz/index.php/coatings I've had a look and a chat - very effective, reasonably cheap and looks fantastic - will stay looking like that too. Paul
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Nang - Mk3 o/d box on trade me $450, he may have the propshaft as well - put on one of your Mk4 flanges to mate to the Mk4 diff. If not, just have yours shortened /balanced with a herald flange to mate to the mk3 g.box. Paul