trubac
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Everything posted by trubac
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2 years later ... It seems that there is 2 versions of the front engine rubber mounts. On mine the later. The Repair Operation Manual of the car is also confusing as there is 2 configurations : on page 1-112 and 1-113 (see photos) on page 4-102 (see photo) On photo 4-102 I've put the other type in red. So a change occurred in the production as also the front engine plate has changed for the new mounting. Later rubbers are a lot bigger, so I imagine that they changed it for a better soundproofing reason. Problem is that the the later configuration is not well engineered as they are almost vertical (see photo 4-102) so the rubbers are not working in compression but in shear (not sure of that word): when they get old the engine touches the front subframe bar ... thus the 2 white silicone rubber on mine (see photo on original post) that are ruining totally the soundproofing improvement desired. So I've tried to put mine on earlier rubbers ... Problem : they are too thick (see photo) Question : are the Triumph 2000 rubbers really the same as the 1300 FWD ? cheers to you all ! Gilles
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Pete, if you look at my front plate on the left hand side (right if you face the car) you can clearly see that there is 2 possible flat face where the rubber can be mount (one is vertical), on yours is impossible to mount it myway. The same applies to the right hand side of the front enginge plate : mine has a flat (vertical) that yours doesn' have. Yes the engine is resting on the white rubber to prevent the engine to touch directly the cross member. The 2 mounts on the side are keeping the engine from moving side way. Weird
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Thanks Peter ! That is very usefull, it seems that my front engine plate is different because there is a vertical plate. Also it seems that some angled plates, with the original mounts holes, has been made to cope with the new mounts. It looks like a french mechanics didn't have the right part and adapted one. At the end I could don't care but I find that the "white rubber" under the engine is quite weird...
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Hello, I went under the front car to see an oil leak and I was puzzled by the mount configuration. It seems that the mounts are not in the right place and that there is some additional white rubber in front to support the engine !!! Any ideas ? Cheers Gilles image link :
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Hi overthere ! I'm in the process to resore my 66' Her, and was wondering if there is some tips on how to know how far n the engine rebuild I need to go ? My engine is original and has approx 95K miles on the clock, smoke a bit, eat some oil (a pint every 300 miles, doesn't heat at all, rattle very shortly at stating. I'm in the "Don't fix it if it is not broken" mood but as I will take the top off for the valves and change the exhaust manifold for a Spit MK2 one and mabe a single Weber (do someone know wich one ?) .. How do you know if the low end needs to be renew ? how much work can I do in situ ? thanks !
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SOLVED !! see Spit thread. Thanks for helping ! G
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I received the parts and put them on as well as a oil pressure gauge, everything is fine ! very happy got 20/30 at idle and 70 when running. Thanks very much for helping ! need to take care of the tak tak at the front but I'm sure it is this strange 1300TC oil trower that got some play...
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Thanks very much for all the answers ! sorry for late reply I'm away from wifi here ... Pump diaphragm ? on a 1300TC ? Yes it seems that oil level gone up ... not sure if it is because I ad some also ... Engine doesn't rattle anormally on cold start, it sound very smooth, it rattles hot but it was there before and I think it is a deflector problem (special on the TC) I will try to sender first, and the valve (doesn't look good at all) Thx G
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mmm ... thanks for the answers ... 1- I will do an oil change first (20W50) with a new filter. 2- I Will order a new oil pressure sender Pressure releif walve can be faulty to, no ? how to check that one ? THX G
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Hello overthere ! Just after a 100km trip (mainly motorway at 70mph) the oil warning light lighted up when the engine is at low revs ... When cold it is fine but now when warm the warning lights gets on at low to med revs. The oil level is normal, the car is running fine, no overheating ... I suppose the culprit is the oil pump so few questions : - can it be the oil filter that is blocked ? - is it possible to change the oil pump in situ ? do I need a new one or can it be reoaired DIY ? - is there other area to look ? Thanks very much for helping ! I'm posting in the 1300 and Spitfire section. Gilles from Dieppe (FR)
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Hello overthere ! Just after a 100km trip (mainly motorway at 70mph) the oil warning light lighted up when the engine is at low revs ... When cold it is fine but now when warm the warning lights gets on at low to med revs. The oil level is normal, the car is running fine, no overheating ... I suppose the culprit is the oil pump so few questions : - can it be the oil filter that is blocked ? - is it possible to change the oil pump in situ ? do I need a new one or can it be reoaired DIY ? - is there other area to look ? Thanks very much for helping ! I'm posting in the 1300 and Spitfire section. Gilles from Dieppe (FR)
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That is interresting ! Why should we have a single lip oil seal now then ? Just replaced mine witha standard double one ...
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3.6 mm sound good, can't verify as the car is away and I put everything back again ... I thought about making a washer "Ã la" Spitfire and make a special Delrin washer of the right thickness to compress it ...
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hi Gordon ! Is there only one compression washer that replace the oil thrower ? from the manual (that is 100 km away at the moment) I thought there was another oil thrower AND a compression washer ... ??? I've got only a sort of compresion washer that doesn't look very effective as it can be turn arround the woodruff easely ...
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Thanks for the answer ! Mine is a later tapered type (know that form the effort it took to take the pulley off) and I do not have compression washer to hold the gear firmly in place ... hence the "tak tak" noise I now presume. The thing would be to find the missing part orto put a Spitfire oil deflector an d then built a custom compression washer ...
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On the manual it says that from a compression washer was added to the "funny" deflector ring ... any infos on that too ? Does the classic deflector ring on the spit as a play too ?
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It was a nightmare to take the pulley off ... real nightmare, the bolt came easely but the pulley was super stuck ! I had to make a special tool. Anyway, I took it off mainly to change the oil seal, I planed to change the chain and gear in the same time but they were in good shape (much less than 1/2" of chain deflection, good tensioner too). That confirms that the car mileage is probably 50000km and not 150000km. So I didn't change the chain and gear because "don't fix it if it is not broken". BUT I still have that "tak tak" noise when hot coming from the chain cover area ... I've notice that the oil deflector is specific to the 1300 fwd : a sort of strange ring that doesn't look at all like the Spitfire small crank deflector, and doesn't seems to secure the gear correctly Can the noise come from a little play of the cranckshaft gear ? can I use a Spitfire deflector ? Cheers G
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If I understood well the 1200 engine have large journal camshaft and if I want to put a 1300 cam, I "just" need to insert some bearings without any machining, right ?
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If I understood well the 1200 engine have large journal camshaft and if I want to put a 1300 cam, I "just" need to insert some bearings without any machining, right ?
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Yes !
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Hello, I've bought second hand Alloy nuts for my Alloy Sprint wheels, and six month later I've found out that 8 of them are later type ... Does someone have 8x early Alloy nuts to exchange with 8x later ones ? Thet need to be alloy as I need to shortens them to fit my skimmed Sprint wheels to go on my 1300FWD. Thanks very much Gilles ps:will also post on Dolo forum.
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You're right MUT ... but I'm not with the car ... only on WEs, so I'm trying to figure out things for when I'm there ! Clive: just realized (again lost in translation) that you talked about splin size and not column diameter. my early Stag steering definetly got small splines, as I can't imagine them to be smaller ! So could be it ! Now, how to fix a horn in a Stag steering center ?
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Hi Clive, I don't own a Stag but a 1300TC ... but got an early Stag steering wheel, 16 inch, that I wanted to put on my 1300TC. I also wanted to keep the horn location, so wanted to fit a spit 1500 center to still have the horn ... Does that make sense ?
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Thanks for your answer ! Maybe the question should have been : what are the compatible steering wheels for each Triumphs ? and what are the Triumph's boss compatibilities ? EDIT : can someone with a better english reformulate my Questions ? ;-) I'n not english ...
