Glenn

Thanks John.  Can't see anything likely on eBay but the craftsman bulb might do the job although looks quite long.  I have a Gunson with a dodgy bulb too as a fallback - the craftsman might fit it. Do folks ever replace the bulbs or do they just buy a new strobe?

Does anyone know where I could order a strobe bulb?  It's for an old Sun timing light which I bought off eBay and found someone has removed the bulb.  Grrrr. Cheers, Glenn

Agree with above, lots of petrol can kill plugs very rapidly (think NGKs are particularly bad). The other thing I was wondering Jonny is when you say stripped the cooling system down, did you take the water pump off the block and if so did you take the manifolds off to get at the water pipe?  I've had a similar sounding running problem which was caused by air leaks around the inlet manifold due to reassembling with the old gasket.  Just a thought.

Thanks Beans. I'll give them a phone next week to see if they have any. None of the hinge pins on my car are welded.  The top hinge is working harder than it should and needs a periodic tap back in place!  It's quite an early car so perhaps the welding was a later mod due to pins falling out? Cheers, Glenn

Thanks Beans. I'll give them a phone next week to see if they have any. None of the hinge pins on my car are welded.  The top hinge is working harder than it should and needs a periodic tap back in place!  It's quite an early car so perhaps the welding was a later mod due to pins falling out? Cheers, Glenn

Does anyone know where I could get a door hinge pin?  The driver's door lower one has dropped out at some point and the door sags. I had one on backorder from Rimmers, part RB7149, but they eventually sent a letter saying no longer supplied. Any clues gratefully received.  

Does anyone know where I could get a door hinge pin?  The driver's door lower one has dropped out at some point and the door sags. I had one on backorder from Rimmers, part RB7149, but they eventually sent a letter saying no longer supplied. Any clues gratefully received.  

Hi Bill.  That sounds pretty disappointing.  My old petrol Land Rover 110 was fitted with a red top.  I replaced the pump as although it was in good working order, it looked so old and corroded, and I was worried it would finally rust through. It must have shifted some fuel in it's time as that old Landy was thirstier than Oliver Reed after a packet of peanuts.  It went on for years after too doing all sorts of jobs pumping heating oil and sorting floods etc! It's only my guess, but I wonder if there is something about the installation which is making the pump work a bit hard?  The original LR installation had the pump mounted vertically near the tank, a little lower and preceded by a filter (small version of the Lucas PI one).

Think it would be a shame to break an otherwise good car? Not sure I'd want to do all that work just to fit second hand arches which might not be perfect anyway? The inner arches are not difficult to make. Are Dolomite rear arch outer repair panels still available? I've used these with some success. Bit of adapting required, but nothing too disasterous.

Spitfire2500 wrote:A 2000TC, a s***load of welding, a respray, complete front and rear suspension overhaul, gearbox rebuild, new diff seals, drive- and propshaft overhaul...and I'm sure there'll be loads of stuff I don't know about yet   Oh, and frequent progress reports to Glenn and Dan   Very much looking forward to watching Bill's lovely white TC restored to its former glory for the 2014 run.  Hoping I can visit to admire the work in person, and of course I'll be taking my boiler suit in case I'm allowed to lend a hand! Meanwhile I'll be in charge of sorting out a backup vehicle.  This might be my red 2000, although this morning I spotted an Acclaim near where I live which is almost certainly for sale....  That's a plan then I think.  Bill - you need to finish your 2000TC otherwise it will be RBRR 2014 in a Honda!! Alex wrote:This is one group of people that I'd love to see on the run! Glenn I know is desperate to do this event .....so desperate he tries to marshall all of scotland! Next time!! Ha ha - not quite "all of Scotland".  Mike, Graham and I were only at 40% of the Scottish controls.  Definitely need to make it to 100% next time! ;D

You can buy electric Spot Welding machines to do this Steve.  Have a google or go to Machine Mart etc.  They make a very neat job and not too hard to use.  Downside is the factory would have had ones with very long arms to reach all the bits of the car they needed to, and the hobby ones might be a bit limited!  Not sure how many folks would own one? Like the learned gentlemen say, MIG is the way to go.  An alternative to spot welding when joining 2 panels is the MIG "plug" weld.  This is drilling a series of 5mm holes in one panel and welding in the middle of the holes until the hole fills with metal and the 2 panels fuse together.  Looks like a neat blob.  You'll probably pick up how to do this pretty quick - it's not as hard as seam welding which takes a bit of practice on thin body panels, especially ones that are a bit rusty.

Yes, disappointed we won't be joining you folks on the run but looking forward to seeing everyone at Conon Bridge.   8) All the best!!

Sorry to hear the transaction hasn't worked out Ted.  I've had a couple of similar problems in the past and used the ebay resolution centre.  Because the seller was unable to provide proof of posting, I was issued with a full refund. But, much better if such a rare item were to turn up, so best of luck.

Not sure I'd risk it, and almost certainly my wife would kill me if I tried!