MarkB
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Everything posted by MarkB
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Hi all Need to get the head sorted before i finally put the engine back together. Really wanted to get the head modified from standard, increase the compression slightly etc. Just not sure where to get it done. Had the car off the road for way to long and for speed and simplicity was going to get an off the shelf unleaded exchange unit. I may regret this later so before I commit thought I would ask for recomendations and your thoughts on a standard head verses modified for a fast road car that will one day be electronically injected using PI throttle bodies. thanks Mark
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Hi Thanks for the replies. The head is off so decided to remove the timing chain and sprocket and reset the timing when i put it back together. Now thinking about fitting duplex kit from Canleys, I fitted a Kent Vernier kit to my spitfire years ago for fine tuning not really sure of the benefits of the duplex set up other than strength. As a future project I may stroke this block to 2.5 as the car is very original I would like to retain the engine number, that would require a duplex chain so I may just fit one now. Mark
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Hi All My Mk2 Vitesse engine is on the bench having set the end float with new thrust washers. I decided to replace the front and rear engine plates with the aluminium versions but have to remove the timing chain etc. I was thinking of ways to lock the cam so that i don't have to reset the timing. The sump is off and I was thinking of wedging it with some wood. Is there a better way or shall i just let everything move and re-set the valve timing. Thanks Mark
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I had a problem with a repro cap several years ago where it would't seat on the distributor properly, I think it was to do with the square cut out. I binned it and used a good original second hand one i had. You can't beat the original parts if you can find them.
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Thanks for the replies. That has been my concern, that a cover will hold the damp, and never considered one before. Its just a neighbour mentioned it as he has an old Porsche that he keeps covered and he mentioned it. I have a similar cover on my motorbike, grey rubberised outer which is backed in a soft cloth. Been out to the car and wire brushed the worst and treated it with rust treatment.Not quite as bad as first appeared, but not good. I am sure it will hold up for another year or so if I pay attention to it. Thanks.
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Thanks for the replies. That has been my concern, that a cover will hold the damp, and never considered one before. Its just a neighbour mentioned it as he has an old Porsche that he keeps covered and he mentioned it. I have a similar cover on my motorbike, grey rubberised outer which is backed in a soft cloth. Been out to the car and wire brushed the worst and treated it with rust treatment.Not quite as bad as first appeared, but not good. I am sure it will hold up for another year or so if I pay attention to it. Thanks.
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I recently did mine. I don't think you could roll them. Its double skinned where the inner meets the outer and very rigid and it think you would distort the wing. I am sure a skilled panel beater could dress them but it is finding that skilled panel beater. I marked mine and then very carefully trimmed with a thin cutting disc. I am in the process of bolting the restored parts onto the chassis so to make things easier I unbolted the rear tub again, took it off the chassis and flipped it over. Could be done in situe if raised high enough with the wheels off. I need a lot of clearance and may have to still flare the arches slightly, but will trial fit again add some weight to induce a bit of negative camber and see how it goes. Like I said I have taken it to the limit and carefully welded up the lip as cutting it this close will create a gap between the two skins. You probably won't have go this far and you really only need to trim the top centre where the wheel can catch.
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Can anyone recommend a good outdoor car cover for a GT6 Mk2. I have never really considered one before but as the car just sits outside all the time whilst I am working on my Vitesse I have noticed the bodywork deteriorating with rust appearing in several places and is starting to fester. I have most of the new panels to fit but probably won't start for another year. I need a g good quality one, rubber/plastic on the outside cloth inside type that is tailored for the GT6. Any suggestions/experience? Thanks
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Can anyone recommend a good outdoor car cover for a GT6 Mk2. I have never really considered one before but as the car just sits outside all the time whilst I am working on my Vitesse I have noticed the bodywork deteriorating with rust appearing in several places and is starting to fester. I have most of the new panels to fit but probably won't start for another year. I need a g good quality one, rubber/plastic on the outside cloth inside type that is tailored for the GT6. Any suggestions/experience? Thanks
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10158 wrote:the friction pad mating surface is alot smaller in diameter however the overall diameter will be roughly the same to get the starter gear close to the starter motor i guess. whats the difference in thickness? Same thickness. same diameter. Surface machined slightly differently and holes and dowels in a different place. So either the Vitesse has a lightweight flywheel or the spitfire has a heavy one.
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Hi all. I had been hunting hi and low for my Vitesse flywheel. Not where I thought I had left it . Found a couple of MK3 Spit ones and was getting confused until I realised the Vitesse and spitfire flywheels are that same size. I had visualised the spitfire one to be a lot smaller. Vitesse one on the right.
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Thanks for all the replies, I now feel reassured :) Out comes the credit card again :o.
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Hi all I need to buy a couple of front wings for my Mk2 GT6. Are they all from the same manufacturer or are there different pressings? I just want ones that fit after having nightmares with the Vitesse panels I bought and really struggled to get an acceptable fit. Thanks, any advice appreciated Mark
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Thanks for the replies. Staying on the (Lighted) Lightened theme I was also going to fit the aluminium front and back engine plates along with the water pump housing. I know the cast housing weighs a lot so worthwhile, not so sure about the front and back plates, but still tempted. I see a couple of suppliers sell the aluminium engine plates. Does anyone know if they are all from the same supplier, and of the same quality? Thanks
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Hi all Still working on the Vitesse restoration been going on to long, with life and other projects getting in the way. To speed things up I am probably going to go for a standard off the shelf head as apposed to my intention of fitting a modified one. I will be going elcetronic fuel injection as soon as the car is back on the road as I want a little more perfomance but with reasonable MPG. I was wondering if a lightened flywheel is a worthwhile mod on a 2 litre. I had one fitted to a Spitfire but it wasn't done in isolation so can't judge any possible gains on pick -up. Anyone gone down this route, and was it benificial? Thanks Mark
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1218 wrote:Flexible wheels on an already flexible car? Are you sure? Mark In the real world driving at legal speeds the difference between spoked wheels and alloys would be negligible. I have driven both, no difference. Worn spines lose spokes would cause problems as would a warped alloy or steal wheel. Mark
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I have a Mk2 GT6 and a set of original spoke wheels that originally came on my Spit Mk3. I was thinking of putting them on the GT6. I have a new set of Yokohama 165 70 tyres on the Gt6 and was wondering if can you just fit tubes in these tyres or is there a problem as these are tubeless. I have the original dunlop inner tubes no patches or perishing, proper old rubber that I was going to use. Also I think there is a little wear to the splines visible on the adapters but the splines in the wheels look ok so i was going to get a new set of splines from chic. whats your thoughts? Thanks Mark
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Managed to get the tub back off the chassis and Home from the lock up to tackle the rear wheel arch clearance issues and attempt to correct the Sh** repro rear wing swage line. This rear wing has caused me so many problems and should have cut it off and binned years ago but as it cost around £150 at the time I have been reluctant to do so. So I have trimmed the lip off the arch and welded it to the inner arch Thats as thin as i can go so hopefully enough to get he wheels under. Moved the swage line down about five mm, so should now line up with the swage in the drivers door. Seen lots of restored cars with the same problem but I couldn't live with it. One step forward and two back. Bought some very short AVO shocks to go with the modified rear suspension but still have a few issues to sort.
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Thanks they are the places I have been getting quotes from with the addition of Fitchetts. Rear valance has just gone up £20.00 to £105.00 this month at Fitchetts, new batch and apparently steel price increase is the cause. They produce their own GT6 Mk2 front wing from original tooling has anyone fitted these? I am wondering what the fit is like compared to the Heritage ones. Thanks Mark
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Hi all I have a GT6 Mk2 and Spit Mk3 that need restoring at some point, GT6 is on the road, Spitfire is a basket case I was thinking of starting to buy the necessary panels now. Realistically I wont start on either for a couple of years, still working on the Vitesse and an MX5 turbo project. Four years agoI bought a new rear wing which I fitted to the Gt6 mk2, checked the receipt and I paid £125 looking today all the traders are asking £200. All panel prices have gone up an a lot it seems. Any suggestions where I should buy from? I want British motor Heritage panels apparently they are as per Original and are meant to fit, what do you all think?. Any advice appreciated. mark
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I have a set of the 5.5 Dunlop wheels fitted with 175 70 Firestone tyres. When fitted on my Mk3 Spit I had no problems with rubbing, plenty of clearance at the rear, but when fitted to my Mk2 GT6 they rubbed on the rear wheel arch. One inch lowering block fitted. Now going to be fitted onto a Mk2 Vitesse. It has nothing to do with the GT6 sitting lower but the shafts must be slightly longer on the rotoflex cars and there was more negative camber on the spit. I had a set of the later 5.5 wheels and had the same problem so sold them o a chap with a Mk3 GT6 where again there is even more clearance because of the different shaped rear wing. Fitting hub caps will chip the powder coating off the wheels.
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Hs4 carbs worked very well on my 2 lite Vitesse unless you are installing a different cam and head work you can get great performance with standard or tweaked HS4s all about air speed bigger not always better.
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Has anyone fitted a Mk1 non rotoflex spring to a Mk2. On paper could be a good mod. 270lb vs 215Lb 12mm narrower fitted length so should give a little more negative and about 42mm lower. Am i missing something?
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Hi,thanks for your thoughts. I did think about changing the wheels which are Old Dunlop LP923 5.5 x13 plain steels which I have had for years and like. I thought these would fit with a little trimming of the arches but to be honest in retrospect wish i hadn't attempted it and gone for ones with less offset. I ran these on a Mk3 Spit for years with no issues but I did have clearance issues when I tried them on my Mk2 GT6. I am using Kingston Sports Cars Sliding spline driveshafts with a de-cambered rear spring. Now I have butchered a perfectly restored inner arch and new wing, it needs repairing so i will have to remove the tub and sort that out. If after trimming and restyling the inner arch they still don't fit then I will go for a new set of wheels, probably Revolutions. I know I am making a lot of work for myself but feel compelled to do this, strange I know. I think it must stem back to the late sixties early seventies when as a boy, would very occasionally go to Brands with my dad, I remember the Anglia's with the deep wide steel wheels up in the Arches, and sitting very low. Not practical, but the look I am after. Don't know if I will flare the arches still not decided. Thanks
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Made a bit of a C**k up today and a little peed off. Tub has been back on the chassis for a few years now and in between work, being side tracked and largely waiting on parts thought things were coming together, only been seven years so far. Anyway having trouble with wheel clearance so decided to trim some of the lip off. I repaired this on both sides years ago along with a new wing, which has never fitted properly and been the cause of alignment problems. This area is double skinned where it meets with the inner wing. I new I had to be careful but went to near the outer edge of the wing so now the edge needs welding up the car is in a lock up with no power and been using a generator to run power tools but not up to running a welder. Tub now needs removing and bringing back home, turning upside down so I can do the job properly. With the driveshafts i am using along with the old style Dunlops and 185 70 tyres the track is wider than standard and even if I trim the return in the wheel arch the wheels may still rub. The car is going to be low and I don't want to use narrower tyres and wheels. Now thinking of subtly flaring the arches, not sure how yet what are you thoughts?