MarkB
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Everything posted by MarkB
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Hi all Repaired ends of the header rail on the Vitesse hood frame today. Just a little corrosion and not as bad as on some cars I have owned. Should the short bars that come off each end of the header rail have some side to side movement, they are held on by heavy duty steel pressed studs/rivets. I seem to remember these should have some movement but the ones on my car are seized solid, or pressed so they are solid, but then I think it would have been in one peice welded to the header rail with no other joins if it was meant to be solid. Thanks Mark
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Hi all Fitted the handbrake and cable. As the rear track is wider than normal, even the new Mk2 Vitesse cable was to short by about 40mm with everything adjusted out to the ends of the threads. Also I am not sure how much stretch there will be with the suspension loaded and flexing. I decided the easiest option other than trying to find a cable of the correct length, which is hard to judge i modified the relay lever giving me numerous options, which has worked out fine.
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the dust cover
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Hi all I began fitting the handbrake cables etc. to the Mk2 Vitesse today and was not that sure which way up the relay lever is fitted. in the end I fitted it with the long end of the pivot tube facing up to give more clearence for the cables from the underside of the floor. I have another relay lever where the pivot tube is central so makes no difference which way up it is fitted. I have a plastic dust cap which in the diagrams i have seen fits on the end of the pivot tube. if fitted on the long tube it will just slide up and not do anything. On the short end it protrudes slightly and takes up the slack in the mount on the floor. There should be a felt washer fitted between the lever and the floor according to the drawings. Anyone no how this originally fitted? Spent ages trying to fit the long cable through the guides at the rear a bit of a puzzle and awkward due to the length of the treaded pieces on the ends of the cables, finally fitted, then found they were about 10 inches to short. Bought the cable about 10 years ago so mabe for a Vitesse Mk1 if they are shorter than the rotoflex version.
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Thanks for making that clear to me Nick. My 17 year old Nephew just said the same, so when I initially set it I misunderstood the readings. No wonder I could see some play . May need a thinner spacer to active that end float. Thanks again. Mark
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Hi Tony Thanks for pointing that out. I need new glasses. Now you have reminded me I do remember setting it up using the Haynes manual measurments of 0.0127 to 0.0635mm. So the DTI appears to read wishing the tolerances but there feels to much side to side movement as apposed to end float.
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Hi all In the process in putting the Vitesse back together and I am having to revisit a job I thought was done and dusted several years ago. I have Kingston Sports Cars sliding splines drive shafts fitted and shimmed the hubs to the correct end float, so I thought, but a couple of months ago whilst under the car i pulled on the driveshaft for some reason and felt some play. Looking closely I could see some movement in the bearing. I removed both shafts off the car and remeasured the end float. Haynes manual states between 0.0005 and 0.0025. I am having difficulty reading the dial indicator, and can't find the instructions. I am now starting to think 0.0025 is two of the small increments and not what I originally set it to as the photo shows. Any advice appreciated
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Hi all Thanks for the replies and info. Filled the car with coolant ran up to tempreture and the fan operates fine wired as per the diagram, switching on and off, so that's another job jobbed.
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Hi all I've had a couple of kenlow fans that have been previously used on other triumphs many years ago and decided to fit one to my Vitesse I am restoring. I couldn't remember how they are wired incorporating an override switch for the odd traffic jam on a hot sunny day. I found some instructions for one of the older fans I have and have wired up accordingly. I have fitted the Live wire to the C terminal as per the wiring diagram. A sticker on the controller says that the C terminal is for the earth? and on another controller I have a wire goes from the C terminal up to a spade on the body. I have not tried to heat the sensor to see if it works as I am a concerned if I have wired it up correctly. I have a separate live that runs to a switch on the dash and back from the switch to the NO terminal, and then a another from the NO terminal to the fan. The other wire from the fan goes to earth and the controler is also earthed. The fan operates when I switch the override switch on. Is it correct to run a Live to the C terminal when incorporating an override switch? Thanks Mark
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I was Under the car at the time of posting on my phone. It came back to me the more I thought about it. The car was stripped 10 years ago and I don't usually throw anything away. Had a sort through various tubs of bolts and fittings I have collected over the years and found what I was looking for. I remember now that I bought a few of these at auto jumbles but can't remember where I put them, luckily I only need one. Thanks Mark
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Hi all In the middle of fitting a brake pipe set to my Vitesse that I bought about 10 years ago. Brake pipes are ready made and fitting has been self explanetary due to the set lengths and end fittings. However hit a snag. The pipe that runs from the front to the rear near side union is in two parts from memory and is what I have left. I have male and female fittings on each end. Male into the front union female on the end joins to the othe pipes conection but then I am left with a female on the end where it needs a to be a male to join the rear union. I have a vague memory that the mag have been a double ended male connector that joins the two female ends leaving a male at eithe end of the pipe. Do you know if thee should be a double ended male conector? Maybe the pipes have been made up wrong but doubt it. Thanks Mark
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Brands Hatch Track Day Monday 5 December 2016
MarkB replied to Kevin Bryant's topic in Comps & Motorsport
Hi all Popped by Brands today took a few pics but unless you have a telephoto lens it's hard to get any good shots. Nice bright crisp day though. Mark -
I replaced a rear Vitesse wing with a pattern part from one of the main suppliers several years ago. It was about 1/4 inch to short in length, the pressing over the wheel arch was not as deep and defined as the original. The lower swage line where it should follow on from the door was about 1/4 inch to high. I initially tried filler to just the line and ad a bit of curve to follow the door profile. In the end I had to remove the tub again from the chassis and take it back home to repair, as the car is being put together in a lock up. Lots of work cutting and adding in new metal, complained at the time and they agreed they were poor, but thats all that was available at the time. I would look out for a Stanpart original or a good one that been cut from a tub, both surface occasionally, or repair your own. Personally I wouldn't use a repro again. Mark
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Hi all I did consider a new Fan but after speaking with various people this model of fan is well rated and efficient. I don't know if things have really improved that much generally going by past experience of modern replacements. I'll see how it goes as it hasn't been used in years. Moving the engine back gets involved. Possibly hoses, engine and gearbox mounts, exhaust, tunnel and cover, prop shaft, speedo, Heater fan box and probably other bits.
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Hi all Everything fits fine. I have plenty of space for the new rad and electric fan as I have moved the engine back approximately 3", as far as I could without cutting the bulkhead.
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Thanks for all the replies. Hi Yes this Kenlow fan dates from around 1990. The feet did cause problem with the kit and I did see a small circle on the flat round discs that were supplied which the small end of the spring sort of fitted, but the spring diameter was to big to fit on the foot so I drilled out the hole to get the small end of the spring to seat, sought of. I may cut off the corner of the square end to see if they will sit more squarely. Just reassuring to know that the springs should be used to keep the ties taught. I'll post a picture when I work out how aim going to plumb the rad in as you can see the inlets and out lets are in the wrong place compared with the original.
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Hi all Fitting an old Kenlow fan to a non standard radiator on my Vitesse. This is an old Kenlow and I can't remember exactly how its fitted to the rad but think it had M4 nut and bolts that went through the fins on the core fitting virtually flat against the rad. The bolts i had when fitted to I think my old spitfire were not long enough as this rad is quit a bit thicker. I don't like the idea of putting anything through the fins incase it rubs and wares against the core. Anyway, as I want the fan to fit as close to the rad as possible the easiest option was to buy a universal fitting kit with plastic ties which are barbed. They poke through the fins and a disc is slid on end of the tie and pulled up tight on the other side of the rad. Foam pads fit between. The kit was supplied with springs. there were no fitting instructions and nothing really on google apart from a picture fitting the springs as i have. The thought is it keeps the tie under tension. Not convinced this is the right way these are meant to be fitted. The supplier said the springs can be used as spacers if you need to stand the fan off the rad which sounds wrong . Any ideas? Thinking of cutting them off and starting with another kit, leaving the springs off. Still concerned that there could be some chaffing form the ties although they are plastic and I have tried to keep them centred between the veins. Also does it make any difference to the operation of the fan if the sender is fitted to the bottom hose? I don't think it will, it would suit this application due to space constraints. Thanks for your thoughts. Mark
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Hi all Fitted the Dolomite Sprint HS6 Carbs to a 2500s manifold on my Vitesse. Had to make up longer studs to allow for the 6mm plastic insulators. I think on the sprint and 2.5 there was just a heat shield. Now looking at the plumbing. I have mainly played around with the SU's on the spitfire and the fuel supply to these carbs are slightly different. The main feed on these are the larger diametre pipes and believe the smaller one's are for overflow? I presume on a sprint there is a T piece, so each carb is fed separately. Has anybody got this set up on there car. I was considering changing the float tops with some 1500 1.5 SU ones which has an in and out on the front carb and just an supply on the second if that makes sense. Where do the overflow pipes join to? Thanks
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Hi all Thanks for the replies. I've ordered a paper filter and dug out the original canister as a temporary measure, and once I have completed the 2.5 build i'll fit it to the GT6 along with an oil cooler. The Vitesse will be fitted with the adapter from the Gt6 and new anti drain filter. If i fit an oil cooler to the Vitesse it means I need to buy one now when the MX5 turbo I am building needs one first. It also means i'll have to modify the front valance etc. on the Vitesse and at this stage i am determined to focus on getting the Vitesse engine running and back on the road after 10 years and lots of other mods. Here is a pic of the adapter for an oil cooler
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Hi all I am in the middle of restoring my Mk2 Vitesse and hope to get the engine running soon. I have a Mocal spin on adaptor with the take off's for an oil cooler which I intended on fitting to the Vitesse but means I am at the point of ordering an oil cooler and pipes. In order to save spending out at this time I was going to borrow the spin on adapter I have fitted to my GT6 mk2 which does not have the take off's for an oil cooler and revert back to the standard paper oil filter on the GT6. The GT6 engine is well worn and rattles on start up anyway and I am in the process of building a 2.5 engine to fit in its place. I know the car ran for years on a standard filter, but a bit concerned if not having an anti drain filter fitted is it going to finish off the bottom end even quicker. Whats your thoughts? Mark
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I can't recall there being any slack on turning at the spline end on the various triumph props I have. I believe that would indicate excessive wear. The only movement should be in and out and that should offer some resistance and not be sloppy. Mark
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I recently replace the standard studs with M12 on my Mk2 GT6, and I found it easy just to pull the hubs off in situ knock out the studs and replace on the bench. That way you can belt the studs fully home on a vice and not rely on pulling them through with a wheel nut. Possible but awkward to drill the backplates on a rotoflex set-up, not a lot of room. Mark
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Hi The best way to measure crank end float is with a Dial indicator attached to a magnetic base. A bit fidely to set up but accurate. Push or lever the crankshaft pulley towards the engine, set the dial indicator and then lever or pull he pulley forward to measure the end float. Mark
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Hi The best way to measure crank end float is with a Dial indicator attached to a magnetic base. A bit fidely to set up but accurate. Push or lever the crankshaft pulley towards the engine, set the dial indicator and then lever or pull he pulley forward to measure the end float. Mark
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I am in a similar situation to you having owned a Mk2 Gt6 for the past 10 years I have decided to put a 2.5 in its place. It's going to have more torque and overal grunt. I will be going for a PI cam. I suppose a possible negative will be originality for some people if you was to sell it on, but I believe at least as many would buy it because of the 2.5 being fitted. Mark