MarkB
-
Posts
375 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Membership & Shop
Everything posted by MarkB
-
Hi Sam Pleased you received the valance and hope it is no worse than you expected. The two brackets fix to the chassis with self tapping bolt/screw and hold the lower part of the valance in position and stop it from flapping about so I would have thought you will need them. I would have thought they are the same as later heralds not sure if they were fitted to the earlier cars though. It will be self explanatory if you can offer it up to the front of your chassis. Regards Mark
-
No you are right, flat ones fit Vitesse
-
Happened to have a couple of pics of the two types of valance brackets. The stepped ones are for the Vitesse.
-
Thanks for the pics! There is a definite curve to the wing where it meets the top section which is reassuring. Giving me something to try and copy. Cheers
-
Thanks for the replies. I did take this pic at one of the shows but it is just trying to translate this and replicate it on my own bonnet that is a bit tricky. Once I get around this problem the body is virtually there I think. cheers Mark
-
I know this thread goes back a long way but to be honest the Vitesse rebuild has faltered, a combination of waiting for bits to be built (still waiting 15 months on) other projects ie. GT6, Spitfire, and now MX5 turbo project, lack of real work - money, and also the problem of getting everything to line up to an acceptable level to me. The biggest stumbling block for me is with the front wings as this is above. A yeaer or so ago I un picked most of the mig spot welds a two day job, not easy, and fitted the bonnet to the car pulling the wings out to line up with the doors. Still not 100 per cent happy and wondering if this is as good as I am going to get it. I have had to pull the wings out about a !/4 inch. Just doesn't look right! any ideas? Mark
-
I have personally fitted 155 80, 165 70, 175 70, and 185 60 13" tyres on spitfires over the years. I think the only real advantage of the wider tyre is that they can look better. On standard wheels I would stick with 155's on a Mk3 or a bit wider on a Mk4 short shaft model. The narrower tyres avoid any problems with rubbing the rear arches or front wings, and on a road car I haven't noticed any benefit in handling with wider tyres fitted, only heavier steering. Mark
-
I had problems with my MK2 Gt6 not spinning over fast enough, especially after left standing for a while. The lead from the solenoid to the starter can appear to be in good condition on close inspection, but as I had replaced the battery and starter and still wasn't happy cut back the plastic insulation from the starter end of the lead and was surprised to see the copper was corroded. Moister had got under the insulation and was festering away. I also noticed when going through a load of spare leads that there are two thickness of this lead. My car was fitted with the thinner variety probably meant for a Spitfire. I found one from a GT6 that was half again as thick, problem solved. Mark
-
Thanks lads for all the suggestions. For better or worse in the end I opted for a Crompton battery. It is an 075 type, 60amp 570 3 year warranty. with the terminals closest to the bulkhead as I was after. There is probably a mm to spare on the width and depth, allowing the small step on the base of the battery to fit perfectly. I thought Crompton batteries were long gone, £57.00 inc. Should be able to spin theGT6 over at a fair rate! Mark
-
Hi all I am about to buy a battery for my GT6 Mk 2 and wondered what type others are using. I was just going o go for the biggest battery I could fit in the space but then I started to wonder would it be better to get a battery with the terminals at the back of the battery closest to the bulk head because I have alway been perturbed how close the clamp is to the terminals, my clamp is insulated, but were the terminals on the original battery at the rear? One motor factor suggested the 038 I think similar size to the mini, but probably got the Gt6 confused with a Spitfire. Any recommendations appreciated. Thanks Mark
-
heraldcoupe wrote:They're likely to be long enough, but ask if they have a bubble or lip profile. Original is lip profile, aftermarket is often bubble profile and a lot fatter, Cheers, Bill. I bought the bubble type with the felt finish from one of the main suppliers years ago for my Spit GT6 & Vitesse, told them the model and year of car and thats what was supplied. Caused all sorts of problems, getting the door aligned and to close properly which is impossible as they are just to fat. But they are still selling it as correct for the cars. Total waste of money. Bought the Correct type from rarebits for my Vitesse and fit perfectly. Mark
-
heraldcoupe wrote:They're likely to be long enough, but ask if they have a bubble or lip profile. Original is lip profile, aftermarket is often bubble profile and a lot fatter, Cheers, Bill. I bought the bubble type with the felt finish from one of the main suppliers years ago for my Spit GT6 & Vitesse, told them the model and year of car and thats what was supplied. Caused all sorts of problems, getting the door aligned and to close properly which is impossible as they are just to fat. But they are still selling it as correct for the cars. Total waste of money. Bought the Correct type from rarebits for my Vitesse and fit perfectly. Mark
-
Hi The clutch cover you have in your pics just looks like the wrong type to me. It doesn't appear to be deep enough. Mark
-
Thanks Nick. I'll have to have a look at what washers I can find. The one thing I didn't get in the "comprehensive kit". Yes, going to be a bit hit and miss I think. I did think about fuel pressure as I recently fitted a new pump from Canley's but I rate there stuff so I think that should be OK. Also I had cheeks like a glass blower when trying to force air past the valve. I have been trying to get back working on my Vitesse rebuild for the past 6 months, but have been side tracked with MOT's and various problems On the Spit, GT6, Van Motorbike, car, car trailer (that I use once every three year's or so) something has got to go! Cheers Mark
-
Hi All I rebuilt a set of HS4 carbs a year or so ago and fitted them to my Mk3 Spit. I had a problem when on occasion the front carb would start to leak fuel out of the overflow pin hole on the lid of the float chamber. This had a new needle valve assembly fitted that came with the comprehensive SU overhaul kit. I remember on some of the earlier SU's there was a tab you could bend to set the height at which the float acted on the needle valve to shut off the fuel. The valve is working when i blow through it and I have replaced the float incase it had lost some of it's buoyancy. There is no means that I can see of setting the float height on these carbs other than putting a fibre /copper spacer washer on to of the brass needle valve holder before fitting it to the lid of the float chamber. This should have the effect of shortening the movement of the float before it presses on the valve shutting the supply. Any ideas? Mark
-
Here's a couple of pics of a Mk3 Spit engine. The first pic is the new set up using a marina new old stock clutch fine spline as I wanted to try out a 1500 OD box. The second was the original clutch. Your one looks way to close. The clutch bit when the pedal was a gnats of the floor. In the end the OD box was no good so replaced the lot with a new three piece clutch from Canleys. The clutch biting point is a lot further off the floor using their clutch. The new old stock clutch had about a mm or two more meat on than the new one from Canleys. Appears to me that tolerances in the clutch are critical as to the operation as the two new plate I used feel totally different. Mark
-
Thanks Yes very bright lights, infact like day light 8). I'll change the alternator and see how it goes. RR I didn't realise you don't get a new pulley with the alternator. To be honest never bought a new one before. Mark
-
Hi All I have an alternator fitted to my Mk3 Spit and have done for the past 10 years. On tick over at about 800-900 RPM it will happily idle for a few minutes but then the revs drop to around 500 rpm as if about to stall but the engine continues to idle for a couple of minutes and then picks up again to 800-900 rpm. I initially thought this was to do with fuel air leak etc. but then it dawned on me it must be when the alternator is cutting in to charge the battery. I put a meter across the battery and without the engine running the battery is showing around 13 volts. At idle the meter reads about 14.5 volts at 800-900 rpm. When the rpm drops to 500 rpm the meter reads 17.5 volts. I am wondering if the alternator is faulty and over charging as I always thought the charge was around 14 volts. This is a new battery as the last one died after about 6 months and I put this down to lack of use as the car often stands for weeks unused. Any advice appreciated. Mark
-
I actually emailed Weller wheels today as they say they have new wheels in the pipeline one being the plain 5..5J steel wheels for the Lotus M1 Cortina. I have a set of what I think are the same Dunlop 5.5J deep dish wheels but with the Triumph PCD fitted to my car. My enquiry was that if they are producing the Lotus Mk1 wheel would they be able to drill them for the Triumph PCD. I know the plain 5.5 wheels are very rare for the Triumph so would be good if there was a new supply. I'll let you know what they say. Mark
-
I like those Weller wheels as well. Old school deep dish. Think I would have problems getting them to fit a GT6 M2 or Spit Mk3 especially at the rear because of the offset, maybe ok with a 60 profile. I have a set of the plain deep dish steel Dunlop's with 185 70 13. Fit the Vitesse and Mk3 spit (just) but not the Mk2 GT6. Must be down to the wider track with the rotoflex suspension? Mark
-
I like these Weller Wheels deep dish retro style. Check out the freelander studs thread, there's a very nice spit with these wheels fitted.
-
It finishes the join between the rear wing and valance. It taps over the flange and held in place with a couple of spot welds or glue. It is amazing how many cars I have seen finished with a really nice paint job with these missing. It definitely finishes an otherwise raw edge.
-
I have a couple of bars off Mk2 Vitesse's, both with a twist of about 3/4" laid on a flat surface, I had been on the look out for a flat one for the past couple of years and and picked up several at auto jumbles but all twisted the same, so left them alone. I just assumed it was through carrying the weight of the driver for 40 plus years had caused it. Mark
-
Fitted an oil pressure gauge to my spit and wondered what you thought of this oil pressure. Not the original mk3 lump but a Mk 4 1300 that has been in the car since I bought it 10 years ago. Car goes well enough. With the engine up to temperature at idle around 8,000 rpm oil pressure is about 15 psi, at 30mph it is 40 psi and at 70mph it is 60 psi and stays at around this pressure. The engine has always felt strong with no rattles, what do you think? Mark
-
Fitted an oil pressure gauge to my spit and wondered what you thought of this oil pressure. Not the original mk3 lump but a Mk 4 1300 that has been in the car since I bought it 10 years ago. Car goes well enough. With the engine up to temperature at idle around 8,000 rpm oil pressure is about 15 psi, at 30mph it is 40 psi and at 70mph it is 60 psi and stays at around this pressure. The engine has always felt strong with no rattles, what do you think? Mark