dave mc
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Everything posted by dave mc
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Ah yes, tetrosyl, under the car plan banner - thats the stuff i've seen in the local motor factors - I'll give that a go. Many thanks. :)
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How long ago did you use the hammerite Colin? I've heard many times that since they have changed the formula its not so good! With regard to POR 15, aren't you also supposed to use the POR 15 preparation, making it helluva expensive? I did my exhaust manifold a couple of weeks ago with VHT from a spray can and it seems ok, but when I pick it up I get a very small amount of residue on my hands of silver paint, even though I roasted it for half an hour with my heat gun. Hopefully it will cure 100% once the engine is running. The engine will be completely clean and degreased before I paint it. Just want a decent gloss finish. The local motor factors sell 250ml of engine enamel. Might try that. Thanks for help everyone.
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Ah ok. May I asked what make you used? And was the engine out or in? Just thinking about it setting without heat. Or does it just dry soft until the engine is running? Sorry - lots of questions.
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I'm looking for a bit of guidance on engine paint. Before I put the engine back in place it would like to give it a nice coat of black gloss. So, having googled engine paint to death, it would seem that VHT paint seems to be predominantly rattle can based. I would rather brush on a good 'thick' coat but the only brush-able stuff I can see comes in 250ml tins. Is that enough for a 6 cylinder? Also, how does it cure if the engine is not yet in place!!?? Any advice/suggestions anyone?
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Ah yes, but whose are the comfiest. I've sat in Ludwigs on a longish run, and they were so comfy I forgot they had been re-done! :)
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How did you remove the muck Gary?
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Thanks Nick, that's a good concise answer. I'll buy a new set.
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Instead of starting a new thread, I thought i would ask my question about core plugs on this recent thread. What is the reason for replacing core plugs? Is it simply to avoid future hassle? My engine hasn't run for about 20 years but I have turned it over on a regular basis. It will be going back into its rolling chassis before too long and is going to get the usual new paint treatment etc but I wonder if i should replace the core plugs. What is the reason please?
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Got any pics Stu? I think a lot of people on here may be interested. Me included.
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OK all. Thanks for the help. I'll do the rear oil seal at the same time.
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We have oxyacetylene but the new ring gear is on a different flywheel which I was just hoping to swap over. How do I get the 'new' ring gear off the fly wheel its currently on?
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Thanks ferny - that's what I was hoping to hear.
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Is there any balancing involved for example?
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The teeth on my ring gear are knackered so will be replacing my flywheel on my Mk2 Vitesse soon. Is there anything I need to be aware of when I do this, or is it simply a case of undoing the bolts and putting the new flywheel on and bolting up again? Will be doing the clutch at the same time.
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So glad you asked that question Stu, as I have been thinking about testing mine whilst out of the car.
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Thanks for the replies. Job done :)
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Hoping to refit the steering rack this weekend - any particular grease required?
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Quick update - credit agreed. I bought them on 24/1/12 so should have done the job quicker!! Just need to decide what else I want now and where I get my drop links from. Don't fancy paying £45 for the ones listed above but may have no choice. I'll give Canleys and Rimmers a call to see if they've had any issues.
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Not really fair to say. Certainly until the outcome is final. Even then, not a good idea - but always been good in the past. Got my Metalistik rotoflex couplings from them - almost the last ones.
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They are rubber ones. I contacted the supplier who said he had someone else with the problem last week. I asked what he could do for me bearing in mind I bought mine exactly one year ago and I still had the invoice/receipt. He said that would have been 3 batches ago and as he only had the same now he couldn't help! Considering I have spent a few hundred pounds to him over the last two years I was less than impressed. I shall be calling him again at the weekend for a credit at least and if that is not forthcoming I shall never use him again and the rest of my restoration will be from parts elsewhere. It really gets me down when you're all geared up for making some progress and then you come across crap parts knocked out by someone who doesn't give a fig about the consequences. :(
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I attempted to fix the anti roll bar to the Vitesse this weekend, but when I came to put the drop links on each end, they were too big and there was play between the roll bar and the ferrel around the bush. Has there been a dodgy batch of drop links knocking about? It was less than a millimetre play but I would imagine that they need to be a very snug fit to do their job properly. I had left the original ferrel on from when I burnt the old drop link bushes off and that was a very good fit. Any ideas anyone?
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Apologies for resurrecting this old thread. I am just about finishing off my front suspension and was wondering about this. What about the anti roll bar? Can this be tightened up to the lower wishbone before the engine is put back in place?
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Hi Stu, If you can get to one of the local meetings someone will be able to show you. :) Dave.
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I think he genuinely didn't know that they were different.
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Sorry, just found the answer on a different thread. They are different. Vitesse ones are longer and shallower.