BAC
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Exactly what happened with mine. The hole got blocked and the oil blew one of the seals. I cleaned the hole, replaced the seal and it's been fine ever since. It was thanks to this forum I found this out.
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According to Canleys the part number is 609412 which list it as no longer available. I put that part number into Rimmers search box and it came up.... http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-609412 It should be ok. Cheers
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How many bulbs are needed to do the dials and warning lights on a Vitesse? I might upgrade the lot as I can't see a thing!
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I used POR15 paint from Frosts for the manifolds. It went on nice and still looks good 18 months later. http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-paint-coating-electroplating/automotive-paint/por15-paints/por15-factory-manifold-grey-paint-473ml.html Frosts do chassis paint too.... http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-paint-coating-electroplating/automotive-paint/eastwood-paints.html?p=3
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Thanks for the replies to my question. My pump does have a priming lever but there's not a lot of room in my garage to get the bonnet open to use it. I'll look out for carb leaks. Thanks
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Can mechanical pumps become weak? When I got my Vitesse 2 years ago apart from the initial start up when I test drove it (it had been sitting for a while) it would start pretty much right away whether hot or cold. Only if it had been parked up for more than a week or two would it take a short while to fire up. Over the last 2 years as a matter of maintenance I've had the diaphragms changed, new needles and jets, spindle and general overhaul and tune. It runs really well but if the car has been sitting for a a day or so it seems to take a while for the fuel to get in the carbs. On the first turn of the key it fires for about a second then it needs cranking for about half a minute. Could the fuel be draining back from the carbs and then the pump struggling to push it back through? I think I have an early pump as it has a glass bowl on top (early GT6?). Would taking it off and giving it a overhaul help or am I better swapping it for the all metal type? Or would it make no difference at all? Cheers!
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I recently bought a lock set which included a lockable left NOS door handle. It was a straight swap. If the handle is locked from the outside you can still open the door from the inside. Comparing the old and new handle it looks like you could just change the button with a locking one.
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I got stopped by the Police last week. I was driving through town on my way home and a Police car was next to me in the one way system, he then pulled in behind me. Having followed me for about a mile or so he put on the blue lights. I didn't know what I'd done wrong. I knew my brake light switch had failed recently but I'd put a new one in -maybe it had gone again? So, he walked up to me and said 'Hello sir, nothing to worry about, I just wanted to have a look at your car. Back in town it sounded amazing!'. We talked cars for about ten minutes. Now my stainless exhaust has the approval of the Police I took my eight year old daughter out in it and went into a multi storey car park and gave it few good revs! I don't know you giggled more me or her!
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That shaft is what mine looked like. Another couple of things I've noticed since replacing it are; Oil pressure seems better. On a run at about 60mph it was showing the low 40's now it's high 40's maybe a bit more. The car would hardly idle at anything less than 1300-1500rpm. I also had to have the choke out for ages. Now it just needs a bit of choke to start but within a couple of minutes it's pushed in and I've adjusted the idle right down to what it should be. Probably some of the best cash I've spent on the car!
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Shiney new rocker gear came..... I pumped the tube with engine oil, then it went in... I torqued it down as per the manual and then set up the valve clearances three times just to make sure. Once I thought all was okay I took off the coil lead and turned the engine over on the starter just to make sure it was working as it should. I re installed the cover and the coil lead and started it up. Wow!!!!!!!!! what a difference! It sounded like a completely different car and what I had thought was a chattery noise from the gearbox must have been the old rockers as I didn't hear it any more. How many miles should I do before I recheck the clearances? a few hundred or a couple of thousand? cheers!
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Pete, That RV6126 part number that mazfg had shown a link to says it is for the 1600/Mk1 2.0on the Rimmers site. Although it is just the shaft, rockers and springs. The pedestals look like they are NLS. I've gone for the full easy bolt on kit that has everything for my Mk2. Hopefully it will come before the weekend and if the weathers nice on Monday I'll go the meet in Weston. Brian
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Another thing I noticed is only one of the rockers (the rear one) has the small hole in the top which I imagine is for oil to pass through like this http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-109023 All the other rockers were hole less! Is that right? Anyway for the sake of an extra tenner I've gone for the complete assembly. I did ring up and ask if the recon gear was as good quality as just the shaft and rockers and I was told it was. If it turns out it isn't it will be going back. Cheers!
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The shaft is dead too. What I thought was just a weak spring holding the front rocker in place it also turns out that the shaft underneath has worn oval. Am I better of getting a recon complete assembly with reconditioned rockers and pedestals like this http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-214559RASSY or do I use my old pedestals and go for new rockers, like this http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RR1312 As Rimmers have a 15% off this week there isn't a massive amount of price difference
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I've had the Vitesse for nearly 2 years and have always thought the engine sounded a bit tappety. On Sunday I met up with some members of the Letchworth Classic Car Club and there were 5 of us with Vitesses. One of them had just had the head sorted out and it sounded almost silent, mine in comparison sounded like an old tractor. So today I thought I'd check the clearances. Out of the 12 valves 3 were too loose, 4 were too tight and the rest seemed about right. The front rocker had a bit of sideways movement as the small spring seemed a bit weak. I then decided to take the rocker bar off and check the rockers anyway. Oh dear................... They've obviously bit the dust so what's my best course of action? Do I get a new set from Rimmers or Canleys? Are they any good? It looks like it's going to cost upwards of £120. any other suggestions where to get the parts. What would have caused this? Overtightening the valves I assume. And are there any tips to replacing them and putting them back in and tightening sequence? Cheers Brian
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You're welcome. Got any pictures of yours?