mazfg
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Everything posted by mazfg
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Ahh, on closer inspection, one balance piece can only go in one position, the other though is adjustable. This adjustable piece has a hole in it which lines up with a hole in the front of the mounting face on the fan and then this hole line up with another on the crank pulley......phew....Balance restored.....
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After taking my fan off the crank I noticed to different sized half moon pieces on the front face of the fan below the tab washers. Looking at item 18 here: http://www.canleyclassics.com/images/diagrams/vitesse_plate_c.jpg It says its a 107858 PIECE - BALANCE CRANK FAN on Canleys site. Now thinking should I have remembered how these go on the fan????? How important are they..?? Why do I have one piece bigger than the other... Canleys only show one type? Thanks
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1887 wrote:You could always have it ceramic coated by Zircotec. It'll be permanent and will help with temperature management. Thanks for that.....they're only just up the road from me too!! Just emailed for a quote.....
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Having now taken off my exhaust manifold and seeing the brown rough rusty appearance it has..... I'd like to clean up, wire brush it and paint it black. Would this stuff do the job: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Matt-Black-stove-exhaust-ovens-HEAT-RESISTANT-SPRAY-PAINT-Everbuild-Purimachos-/160727730035?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Other_Fireplaces&hash=item256c1e8773 Is a spray better or would it be better to brush it on?
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Took me about 3 hours, including re-spray. It's not that straight forward and requires removal of circlips and it is a fiddle. I was keen to remove the old grease as it was very sticky in mine and impaired the working of the motor Coil and brushes can be a fiddle to put back and taking the nylon gear out (white gear on spindle as shown) too. These are probably the most difficult parts, the rest is fairly straightforward...
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http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1322058185/s-0/highlight-wiper+motor/#num0 I refurb'd mine a while back, well worth it. Cleaned up, re-greased and painted
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I used poly bush kit when I redid mine. The only components you get are the polybush and a stainless steel tube. I Just greased the bolt that went through when I did mine. Being stainless I hope they'll be no rust, although the bolt was just steel....
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Not sure...but the metal ones are always a bugger to get off....
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Through the engine bay, with a spanner...it's tight but not that tight...
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Yep, airline is the best way I found to free my old rusted pistons. Eventually got them out n fully reconditioned my calipers
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Not sure what seal mine has....
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Just went to check my gearbox oil level on level ground, on removing filler plug what seemed like almost a pint came out. Now prior to getting my car fixed over winter by a garage (welding etc). I did ask them to drain and re-fill gearbox oil, mainly because I couldn't remove the overdrive drain plug and asked them to, followed by a refill. Usually when I've drained and filled, I just re-fill until it just starts coming out the fill plug.... If there's too much in there, what's the repercussions of such...? Thanks,
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2487 wrote:Balanced my prop for £20 that was at a place on Hartlebury trading estate in worcester. Wow that's good!!! Place near me in Oxfordshire quoted £95 + VAT
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I've got a small nik in my left hand side rear quarter light and it also looks like it's slightly comign away from where it joins the main hood as the photos show. What's the best way to repair this, especially before it gets any bigger. Hot air gun and a bit of squashing together? Where can I get a piece of clear vinyl from? Any help appreciated, thanks.
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4535 wrote:Is this what im looking for? Part number 125482P on James paddock? You can, and that's the right part number for them. It was the only thing I didn't change over on mine when I did the front suspension.....might add it on to my to do list.....although the rubber ones that came with the new links are looking fine still
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4535 wrote:I haven't got the standard pressed steel one on I have a orange plastic one which I believe is better? Any truth behind this? Don;t know anything about plastic fans, but if it's better then why go for electric?
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I'd give the electric fan a miss. The rad n standard fan should be up to the job...see this post on the problems with having removed mechanical fan and added electric... http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1340779766/
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It may help to compare to the original to see the differences. Hope it helps! Makes use of most of the orginal wiring. The only addition is a cable from the fuse box into the car, underdashboard to the steerig column. This +12v line, feeds the main horn circuit now and the relay coil.
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I only had one working horn on my Vitesse, although there were 2 horns under the bonnet. On inspection it revealed both were Lucas 9H horns but both were High note ones. The horn that wasn't working was beyond repair. The working one was ok, but was often unreliable when the button was pressed. I bought a pair of snail horns off ebay to replace what I had, fitted them and found them even worse than the original. These drew more current than the originals and therefore I decided the wiring just couldn't take that current 10 amps (the original circuit is crude). So I decided to add a relay, using the horn push to activate this. Using a relay, some wire and crimps, I managed to still use the original wiring to the horns, but earthed the other side directly to the fixing in the bonnet. Now the horns both work perfectly and just a light touch on the column button does the job! I'll post up my circuit diagram, showing what I did with original wiring in the next few days.
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http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=251091340914&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:GB:1123 Complete bulkhead with floor panels, here!
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I had a intermittent problem with mine, in that the right side was a problem. I'd previosuly cleaned up and rmeoved parts of the stalk switch. Found that the contact (which is sprung loaded) wasn't quite making. Ended up bending out the contact metal a little more and now fine.
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One of the first things I did when i got my Vitesse last March. made a real difference I found. Got an Accuspark unit and sports coil, easy fit, slight adjustment on timing and all good. never a blip since.
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Should still start without the vacuum pipe, this only comes into play when advancing ignition at higher revs which give increased vacuum. Whilst idling, if you ever remove this pipe you'll not notice much difference I dont think.
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Think I need more patience.......mine are all chewed up again :-/
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Yes, I remember someone mentioning on here about using a bolt/ screw to screw in and it will pull out a lot easily than the usual polava.