mazfg
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Everything posted by mazfg
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Thanks Pete, first thing is to get it out from the car and have a looky and see whats what
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Thanks for the replies...may see if Fitchetts can source me one...?
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My layshaft is knackered on the gearbox and I'm wanting to get it reconditioned. Have thought about doing it myself but don't have the tools and confidence to do it. Wondered if anyone had a ball park figure for how much it would cost. It also has overdrive..which works very well but probably worth being looked at too. My other thought was to buy a recond unit..saw Quliiers do one at £290 (+ £150 exchange) or Rimmers but they're £525 (+ £400 exchange ) Just wondering on comparison to getting my old box reconditioned or just buying a recond unit? and also if anyone knows of anywhere else?? Thanks,
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The thing is I put it back in the way it came out (spline near diff ) then decided to swap it as a few people had remarked it was the wrong way and the manuals / pictures I had said it was also correct that way. .... I'll leave it be for now....as I'm removing the gearbox at the end of the season I'll swapost it again then. .. I bought new flange bolts n nyloc nuts from Canleys for the Prop flanges...they were fine at the diff end but seemed a little short on the gearbox end as the nyloc nuts look like they could do a few turns more for the bolt to be at least flush with the nut.... the originals were longer. I think the flanges at the gearbox end must be thicker!
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Haynes manual shows it away from diff. And picture on Canleys site.
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Well, I got the propshaft back on Friday. Amazing service from Propshaft services. Picked up on Monday, delivered back on Friday. 2 new UJ's(they also have (slim) grease nipples fitted) and a balance. It's even been re-sprayed in satin black which is great. Total cost £122 with TNT pickup and delivery (although I think they only charged me one way!) Fitted and taken for a test drive...wow, what a differenece..wished I'd done this when i first got the car!! No vibration at higher speeds, gearbox seems less whiny too... Also the Prop was found fitted with the sliding joint near the diff end! According to the book, should be at the gearbox end..which is as I've done now.
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Bit of confusion as to what these should be? Canleys has them listed as 5/16" and others are saying 3/8". I don't have mine with me at the moment to check..but wondered what is right?
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Also noticed on the sliding joint, what looks like a blanking plug. ..I presume this is to fit a grease nipple, for greasing?
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Propshaft out. The UJ at the gearbox end was very stiff, a bit if WD40 loosened it up but found it not very smooth...definitely shot and certainly wouldn't have helped!!
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I asked about the while you wait. ..theyre so busy they don't offer that now.....
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So, I've just spoken with Propshaft services.. Balanced and checked with new UJ's fitted £100 with vat. They also offer a pickup and delivery which is handy as I live an hour away, £44 picked up and delivered....total £144.
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Thanks for that...I'll give Propshaft services a call tomorrow. Would be great if they still do a while you wait service abs like the idea of them doing my ujs too.
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I'm going to take my propshaft out and replace the UJ's, but also it needs balancing as getting a rumble around 45-60mph. I was pointed to http://www.propshaft-services.co.uk/" as a good company. As for UJ's what does anyone recommend...non greaseable or greasable types? Is it straight forward job replacing the UJ's?
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I have CD150's on my Vitesse 6 and never had springs on the dampers. As Pete said, the weight of them is enough. Later cars with CD's did have them fitted. I have a document called Tuning Stromberg CD carbs. See picture for an excerpt showing when springs should be fitted and what needles.
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https://www.dropbox.com/s/7f5fhfnjildse07/20160626_154949.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/lqh31lq6ynhnjb6/20160626_155009.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/ec7o2s0fxp1kw6f/20160626_155030.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/gvflczayomerk1u/20160626_155010.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/eaixjazkgmszgx0/20160626_155037.jpg?dl=0
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I'll try and take a picture of mine and show you how it sits... It's much easier with this filter system than the original..but I still get some oil spill
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It can be done, but you need to modify your breather pipe. See this thread from a while back : Sorry , link no longer available
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Can I remove outer half shaft flange and then be able to remove the inner half shaft bearing assembly or do I have to take the whole outer shaft and hub out?
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It would seem the float I mentioned is only used on early CD150 especially for Vitesse's and 2000's in the 60's n 70's http://sucarb.co.uk/triumph-tr4-4a-stayup-float-kits.html Was wondering if this one would potentially work with a tab removed..can't quite work it out from a picture? This is the standard CD150 float when searching anyway.
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Ok, so I may just decide to take the diff out and replace the seals...since I topped up the oil..it's dripping a little more...so I guess needs and might as well poly bush it back on. So, the most difficult seals are the driveshafts ? How about the pinion? This is where the oil seems to be mainly leaking out of.
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I've repaired my CD150 floats a few times and they're still good, but just wondered if anyone knew if these were still available anywhere? http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-515721
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Actually I was speaking to a friend of mine about this earlier...he said the same thing. Isn't there a hole at the top which can get gunked up (a sort of pressure release) I'll have a look later..but other than that it sounds fine..no squealing Whereabouts is the vent and is it that accessible?
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So, my diff is leaking slightly from 2 of the 3 ports..... Having looked at the removal etc...and having a Vitesse 6 without lower wishbones..the job doesn't look too bad. Need a diff and wondered what bushes are worth replacing whilst I'm at it? Preferable poly ones..are there kits? Also worth changing UJ at driveshaft ends? Many thanks in advance
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1-3 are on one carb and 4-6 on the other. If 4 is clean and 5 n 6 aren't maybe piston rings are worn allowing oil in, hence blacker. 1-3 adjust the carb for that to make less rich? If in doubt still, do a compression test wet n dry? Also did you take it out for a good run. Just running on the drive can soot up at idle
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As a thought (and lack of knowledge)...could that needle bearing have come from the O/D unit? Only asking as they both share the same oil? There's an overhaul kit here..but wondering if I do attempt what can of worms may lie in wait and generally what else might need changing? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triu.....VTeAcTY4vfyG6ur8bfHQ