mazfg
-
Posts
653 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Never
Content Type
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Membership & Shop
Everything posted by mazfg
-
Thanks for that..looks awesome! Not sure what "grease buttons" are? I've still got the poly bushes in mine from when they were changed 4 years ago so all good.
-
Thanks for the info. I think the difficulty lies in the central bolt removal..I've heard it can be a pig to remove an often needs cutting out if rusted in!!
-
Thought it was under a bit of tension?
-
My rather cruddy leaf spring is now removed from the car after taking out the diff and half shafts. Wondered what the best thing to do with it as it's cruddy, got bits of underseal on it and general mud n a bit of rust. I don;t want to dismantle it but have a friend who shot blasts n red oxides stuff. Is it worth giving it to him to do that? then pushing grease in where I can? Or maybe just a wire brush to dislodge loose stuff and then a spray of Dinitrol? I though as it waxy it shouldn't impair the spring movement? Thanks in advance
-
So, the Diff's out and the drive shaft and the spring. ( I removed the exhaust in the end ) Now I think I might as well do the bearings on the half shafts and the leaf spring is looking a bit cruddy too. Any advice on cleaning that up..not sure I want to actually take it all apart..just a wire brush up??? Should I give it a coat of dinitrol too? I've now also removed the UJ's...that was a pig...no tapping them out..had to use the vice to push them out...solidly fixed in there!! The N/S was definitely worn and probably the cause of the slight noise I could hear. The N/S drum also binds..wondering if this is a little on the oval in shape...?
-
Well, I refurbished it and replaced brushes. Pretty easy in the end, although the new brushes must be soldered into the unit. A nice clean up and a satin black respray and it come up very well. Tested and all good.
-
Mine not right under the diff..it's to the side of it but just under
-
It mentions removing exhaust too...is this definitely necessary
-
http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/parts.aspx?searchtext=514370P Don;'t think you can drop the whole thing out...the chassis is in the way The driveshaft seals need replacing and I'm going to get a drain plug fitted too and also given the once over.
-
So, once the spring plate and diff is off and the vertical links removed from the spring eye bolt...can I withdraw the spring from the car?
-
Ah, yes I see that now looking at a picture of the spring plate. Only the back studs removed as the front ones will move out through the front of the spring. Thinking it maybe best to just remove driveshafts complete and then diff and be done with it Vertical link bushes were poly bushed about 4 years ago
-
The spring is still attached to the vertical link. The flanges are still togetehr but have slipped sideways slightly as I had to push the car forward. The top ,mounting for the diff shows 6 studs. In the manual it says just removed the rear 3 studs? Do all six studs have to be removed though or just the nyloc nuts. I'm guessing it'll be easier if all studs(6) have been removed? rather than pushing studs through the spring plate?
-
Thanks for that. My only concern is that the flanges on the driveshafts are still up against the flanges of the diff..but have slipped a bit..but can't see how to seperate them enough for the diff to drop down. I'll probably be removing the drivehsafts/ hub at some point anyway as I'd like to renew the UJ's. In the mean time though I rathe the car sat on 4 wheels rather than axle stands...
-
I'm about to take my Diff out. The propshaft is out and I removed the nuts n bolts attaching the driveshafts to the Diff. Is there an easy way to get the diff out without having to remove the driveshafts/ hub complete? They're still up against the diff flanges, but have moved down since I lowered the car again.
-
Best thing is to have a look at them.
-
As far as I know Pete.
-
Gearbox is away being redone. Will update heregarding when I get it back. Cheers.
-
Thanks, for that. Found a little video with a similar starter off an MG. Have now removed outer casing and back plate. Easy when you know how https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kmh2qZgfv1Q
-
As my starter motor is currently out and looking grotty (although it works fine). Thought I might give it a check over, service and replace the brushes. Is it an easy job? Looks a little tricky in the workshop manual description...?
-
Engine mounted normally. Standard engine mounts in the front to the turrets....
-
-
Maybe the plate on the chassis it attaches too isn't correct, hence why it's been offset..because the new one will need spacers to marry up to the overdrive as well as holes slightly lower..else it snags on the prop tunnel. Will have a look today at the chassis plate and take some pics of that.
-
Sorry Pete the above diagram is misleading. ..I have a D type overdrive. ..the pic was just to show the mount
-
How do you mean Pete?
-
Just resurrecting this thread as I have both the original mount and the replacement here together for comaprison. As you can see..they are different and the fixing holes to the O/D are definitely different in height but also the mount is offset. Which shows that I'd need some sort of spacers to accommodate this when fixing to the O/D.....? Not sure what's going on here..? As I mentiones, when this was fitted (with spacers), it was too high casuing th propshaft to foul on the top of the tunnel... (Apologies for the last one, it's meant to show height difference but not too clear unless you look very closely 😀 )