mazfg
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Everything posted by mazfg
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My oil pressure reads 80 from cold at startup and 1500 rpm on the gauge. Idles when hot around 30 PSI, but reads 55 at around 2000 rpm. Never had a problem with pressure just drinking a tad of oil
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I do have the 1600 engine
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Looking at them both i will be going for the super charge oil treatment. There are 2 sizes though 300ml and 425ml?
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My output drive flanges take 3/8" bolts, but my propshaft flanges and the diff input flange is 5/16" My prop is 4.11:1 Vitesse 6 which is the correct one.
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So which one. Wynns super charge oil treatment or Wynns engine stop leak??
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Hmmm..so...oil additive worth doing?? I might go for the Wynns on your recommendation then..?
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Thanks Nick..I think I'll leave it then. This stuff you add to the oil and not the fuel. ..
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Anyone have any thoughts on this stuff? My engine does burn a bit of oil..about 200 ml every 150 miles or so. Definitely see the odd puff of blue smoke..but in general the engine is good, idles fine and happy. Saw this and wondered if it would make any difference?
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Item: 30
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Triple checked it now...after a very long drive with covers all off and not a drop or a weep. Happy and covers all back on. Must be needed a bedding in period..
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I've just taken it out for another spin and it seems to be good now. Any recommendations on where to buy sleeves?
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I'll have a look, it's that black thing on top of the OD. Wish I'd burnished it now before putting it all back...too keen. It looked perfectly smooth, with a mirror like finish. I did wonder though if the new seal lip was in a different place to the old and may sit further out..in which case it was more cruddy further out?
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I'm hoping it may settle down..bed in... When the oil is hot and thinner that's when it weeps. The seals seem to be a standard universal part 513231. I did have a simialr thing when I did my crank front seal that sits in the timing chain cover. Went through about 5 and it still leaked..until I bought a full metal jacket type one from Barnwell. been good ever since. I shall monitor and potentially buy another and try again..bit of a pain but I now know it's only an hour or so job
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Well, here's the tool I made. It made very light work of it in the end. Popped the old seal out really easily too. New one went in square and used a piece of pipe to carefully knock it in. Took it out for a spin..to check...came back and the bloody thing is slightly weeping oil out.... I'd cleaned up the flange ok..could see where the old seal was sitting on the flange and it looked smooth without nicks in it....not sure what's gone wrong..it's a fairly simple procedure..
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Mmmm..yep..I mean impact driver. ..I've a hex to 1/2" adapter on it...I'll give it a go anyway. .but mIghtfield not be man enough. I've just made up a new triangulated bar to use....going to try it all tomorrow morning.
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I think it will still rise up even if against the chassis rail as as soon as it hits anything it'll lever up the gearbox.
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Ive made a bar up fitted to the flange. .unfortunately every time I try to undo the nut, the gearbox rises up when the bar is hard against the floor. .ahh. Seems like I need to find away of keeping the gearbox down. Problem is..it's already raised up to get the socket in for the castellated nut. ...
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I found that out at the weekend..much toing and froing.. Will the output flange come out easily or will I need a hub puller on hand? Or easily tapped out?
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If I remove the OD mount bottom screwas....could I jack it up enough to pass the prop tunnel..thereby giving me access without cutting more metal out?
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A nice thought but mines NOS...
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Usually high point is a worn clutch. Mine uses the earlier spring type clutch arrangement
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I think I prefer the steel bar method attached to the flange. Not sure why it needs nuts welding to it. Surely a couple of holes and and then bolted to the flange will work and then jammed on against the floor
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This was new old stock..so was hoping that might not be the case.. ?
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I just got some info about using a screwdriver to lock the gears by selecting 2 at the same time.: Take the selector mechanism off the top of the gearbox and look in you will see where the selectors slot into the gearbox. Move one in one direction and the other one in the opposite direction so two gears are selected. This will prevent the flange from turning. Once you have finished changing the seal and replaced the flange and tightened up the nut move those parts back before you replace the selector mechanism.
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The clutch is fairly new..so can't be wear