Scimher

....Before you all jump to conclusions, that is the 'get-you-home-repair' by my professional pal so that it would be easily removed...(I hadn't used her since it was done - as ordered by him..😊.. other than to get her to my friend in the village who is going to carry out an 'in situ' repair...)

...I added a tube of 'transmission molyslip' to my last gearbox, yonks ago - as well as adding one in the diff......( The current one was fitted by my pro. pal & he changed the oil - that box is an all-synchro. Spitfire unit - & it was not changed due to any failure of the original ...)

The good news is that there seems to be large areas that have avoided the tinworm, judging by the original paint still in evidence........such as the boot area. All best wishes - it will be a very rewarding & satisfying result, once done....

Thanks Clive - am so sorry for the delay in response. I haven't been on here for quite some time...(I have also dropped you a 'PM' - if you haven't got it then do let me know....) To bring you all up to date, I took 'Little Sis' round for assessment, last week, to my friend's house. It was lovely to get behind the wheel again, even though it was only a 3-4mile round trip: my friend said that he would try & do a weld repair using a 2 or 3mm 'plate'....I shall let you all know how that goes....

Thank you, Antonia & Nick - The work + a new driver's side floor section will be taking place at the top of the drive of a friend of mine. Unbolting the body, whether the bolts will undo or not, simply isn't an option. The days are getting colder & shorter & if she was to be there too long it would probably put him in the divorce court!!!

Thanks chaps - anyone who has seen dear 'Little Sis' would certainly never pick her as a future concours contender.......or even an 'A1; plus or otherwise! 🤣 I raised the possibility of cutting a chunk of floor out above where the upper weld would be - Peter stated that there might still be a problem with getting the angle right if the body remained in position........just wondering whether judicious use of a jack might ensure the outrigger gets welded at the correct angle?

http://www.fairpoint.net/~herald948/database/chassis.htm ....I've found this, Peter, which indicates that it can be done with the body in place.........Also implies that the outriggers were not a long-lasting component of the chassis, given it dates from '67. Having said that it would have also been referred to in the repair of crash-damaged vehicles, I guess... (If it becomes a case of removing the body - or even lifting it then I think that we shall have to part company after 12 very happy years together......I cannot afford to pay to have that level of work done by a professional & although I shall insist on paying my friend, who has kindly offered to do the welding, some beer-tokens, I cannot expect him to commit to a 'body-off'.............or even 'body-lifted,' job.) Anybody else out there in cyber-Herald land wish to add anything?   

So the body was separated in this instance, Peter - could a section of the floor be cut out to gain access??.........Is it relatively easy to make sure that the replacement outrigger is in precisely the right position before being welded? Just wondered if there were any tips for accuracy (PS. Sorry about hitting the post button twice - perhaps a mod. could get rid of the other duplicate post - I've had a look but cannot see a way of doing it...)

Bit of a crisis! My poor dear little 1200 conv. has had the bracket that holds the 'tie rod(?) to the outrigger, come adrift. My pro. pal 'tack welded' it as a temporary, get-you-home repair. I've looked at replacement outriggers & plan on getting one, asap, from Chic Doig (who seems to have a good reputation for his panels.etc.) Question is.......can the old one be removed & the new one replace it, with the body on? Any help, advice, experiences (good & bad), most welcome as I have amother pal who just happens to be a pro. welder, who has kindly promised to tackle it for me - (I shall give whatever help I can!) Thanks, in advance... 

Cheers, Rob & Steve.....Have also found a repair panel at TRGB Ltd., Huntingdon....

Thanks for the reply & info., Rob.....Who stocks the aforementioned repair panel?

Well done! I cheated - justifiably as the 'hoodrail' had disintegrated & they are rather expensive, so bought a full replacement hoodframe with hood attached - it certainly ain't perfect but blends in with the 'ratrod' look...  

My dear little 1200 convertible, 'Little Sis,' now has a floorpan that is beginning to get rather 'lacy' - in fact I could end up doing a 'Fred Flintstone' if something is not done soon! I can hardly complain as she has lived outside since autumn of 2008 & been 'on the road' pretty much all of that time. Given that she is very much transport I do not want to consider a full floor 'tray - unless it could be grafted in without a major stripdown.... I have a good friend who is a pro-welder who will hopefully let in some new metal for me, post lockdown, so I am wondering if there are smaller, flat repair sections available?

I thought that there was supposed to be 3psi between rear & front (21 & 24 come to mind...) - with that in mind I run my 1200 convertible with 30psi rear & 27psi front......135x13 tyres currently fitted on 3.5" rims, but I also used the same pressures when I had 5" Spitfire /Dolomite wheels fitted with 175/70x13 tyres!

Thanks for that, Clive - the gearbox is 1500 Spitfire (I think!).....I presume the speedo. is original 1200 Herald (late '64).....There was a message posted to say that someone had a 'mix & match' one - but it was for a Dolomite (from what I remember)

The 'Camac' one is out of stock at the moment, according to the website, Danny - that one is £91.20 a corner.........There is a lovely looking Firestone 'whitewall' at £195.60 each, however....Given the small, niche market, they're priced very reasonably, I would say.....

Just tidying up my old threads & just want to say all sorted & has been working fine for the last 18months+.........See the other thread! Thanks for all help & advice.

I've decided today, with a little spare time on my hands, to go back over my original posts (not many) in the last few years, & bring them up to date. I seem to have 'doubled up' for which I apologise, about some particular problems - this being a primary one! If anyone has a simple, foolproof way of uploading an image that I have on the computer already (now don't get excited, it's not one of those!! 😀)...then do let me know! In a nutshell, the engine gearbox came out, a 1500 Spitfire flywheel with good ring gear went onto the engine (neither of the job lot of two 1500engines - one Spitfire & one Midget were good enough to go straight in to replace the somewhat asthmatic 1300 Dolomite unit.) The starter motor bendix was totally crozzled & all the flywheel teeth were chewed! This started a chain of events that saw one of the job lot of two, presumably 1500, gearboxes replacing the increasingly synchromeshless unit - that in turn necessitated 3.5" being chopped out of the propshaft & a different flange added. This was done at a very reasonable price, locally, by GKN who I cannot praise highly enough! The upshot is that I have my little baby back on the road & starting better than ever & the gearbox is all sychro.....& works. Just need to get a bespoke speedo. cable now. See 'Marketplace' for surplus stuff for sale & the other thread re. this, for talk of the starter motor spacer/shim!    

Job was done with some fiddling & cursing - & some professional help towards the end when I was a bit fraught & knackered (I did it down at my pal's unit, for moral support & company, primarily - but I was pleased that I managed the lion's share....including bodging the bit in the wiper motor that is still working to this day. I was able to use the existing cable,  it was the teeth on the wheelbox that were shot! Checked the lights, put her in for the MOT & she passed first time up (for the first time in nigh-on 10yrs! She'd been off the road from Dec.22nd 2017 to April 2018 (sat outside as usual! What an amazing little car!) After the expense of getting the starting sorted, I haven't put her in for an MOT this year....      

Well.......the starter motor 'bendix'? was totally crozzled & the teeth on the flywheel were all worn at an angle - some areas worse than others. (Have tried to upload a pic. but don't have enough years left on the calendar to persevere any more! 😒) What was interesting was that there WAS a spacer - but it was 0.4" whereas there is one 0.5" (now fitted!) Shims are available from Rimmers, apparently, but not got one as yet. There is scope for one, I think. The workshop manual has the tolerances - doing some research, I came across a thread about this & no lesser a luminary than Bill Davies, himself, referred to the manual to check & said 'how many people refer to a manual when they're fitting a starter motor....' - so if he was unaware, well, I would think quite a few people are risking premature wear on their starting mechanisms!

The replacement hood/hoodframe were replaced as one unit......being an old hood & probably having shrunk somewhat & with the frame/hood being from another car, there is a fair amount of tension - there is no way the rear deck would have coped without the ministrations of my friend.. (many thanks, Mike!!)

That's interesting, Clive - didn't know that.......Previously my car was running 5" Dolomite/Spitfire? rims.. (now for sale - see 'parts for sale')..with 175/70 tyres so the speedo. was inaccurate then. Now, there is no working speedo. as yet as a bespoke cable has to be obtained from 'Speedograph' as my car is now sporting a single-rail gearbox..... Would love to find a cheap set of crossplies in 5.20 size - should imagine any are now fossilised or horrendously expensive re-manufactured items...