Scimher
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Everything posted by Scimher
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The wipers packed up on my late '64 1200 convertible, a while back - finally got around to doing something about it, so disconnected the motor & wiring, removed the plate, taking out the end of the inner cable, spring contact clip etc. etc. & pulled the inner cable out. There was some rustiness in a couple of places in evidence so I cleaned it off in petrol as best I could, marked the tops of the wheelboxes & rotated them a 180 degrees - they spun easily enough by hand. I sprayed 3-in-1 up the bundy tube + spray grease & coated the inner cable with spray grease. I managed to refit everything, tried the wiper switch prior to putting the blades back on.....seemed okay so fitted the blades - result: exactly the same as before! I removed the driver's blade & could actually turn the wheelbox with finger & thumb about half-a-turn!!! My question is could it be just an inner cable that wants replacing or will the inner cable be okay ie. if they don't snap they will work because they don't wear? I presume that the drivers side wheelbox as a minimum will require changing? Any advice/expert diagnosis much appreciated!
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Well, so much for utilising ratchet straps AFTER the replacement hood/frame-combined have been bolted on - my pro-pal Andy actually had a long ratchet strap handy when I called down at the unit, the other day, that he'd been using on another job. He then took me by surprise by saying that as he was fed up of hearing the words ''tub spread'', 'let's do it now'...SO...biting the bullet we put the strap around the rear tub and Andy ratcheted it in by approx. 2'' - maybe a little more...there was a worrying 'crack' noise from the protesting offside B-post area, at one point...Once released the reassuring thing was that both doors did still latch and hold - phew...The slightly disconcerting thing was that the driver's side was a little 'concave' ie. bowing in a little when viewed from behind - I think that it has levelled out a little now. The door bottoms are still protruding a little but not nearly as much, although a little disappointing that they are not a 'flush fit'... No excuse now not to get the second-hand frame with hood already attached, on. As mentioned the deck lip isn't of the best so want to use countersunk nuts and bolts with washers on the underside. Does anyone know what would be the optimum size/type etc. to go through the sprung washer thingies that secure a tonneau - and where to get them. I assume someone has done similar previously... Finally, she wasn't happy with her owd dad allowing her Uncle Andy to do the equivalent of winching a Victorian maiden into a whalebone corset so when I came to go to the supermarket the same eve., I jumped in and there was a click when it came to start her - no problem thought I as I jumped out to rock her in 4th - odd broken teeth on ring gear...pencilled in if she ever needs another clutch. This time - no chance...was on a slope so bumped her in 2nd - rear wheels locked when clutch let in. Had to take her big sis., the Scimitar GTE. Next day hitched Scimitar to her and pulled her in reverse - just stalled the Scimitar...put her into top - freed, no problem. Normal service has been resumed so I think she's forgiven me.. (clap)
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...Thanks so much for your reply - the original stainless strip is in place & although I've no tonneau cover at the moment, I would like to keep the option open so it's important that I use the correct fasteners which I presume I can source through Canley Classics... ...I'll take your advice & fit the hood & frame first before trying to cure the 'tub-spread'.........(unless there are a number of views to the contrary...)
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I have a replacement 2nd hand hood already attached to a hoodframe (could be 13/60 - can't remember now...) to be fitted to my 1200 convertible. What would be the best method of securing - (the rear deck has seen better days!)?? Also, I'm looking to use ratchet straps to correct the infamous 'tub spread'.......should this be done before or after fitting the hood/frame?
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...Thanks, Dave - will look at that. The new distrib. was a 'pattern-part', I'm sure, but there had been a lot of 'play' in the old Lucas unit so it had to be changed. It certainly cured the 'flat spot' when revving in third. I'll get a distrib. ignition kit & see if that improves things...
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...I've not yet got the new bits on - but, yes, you're right; I made sure to call on my pal & 'half-inch' three different sizes of cable-ties...She's a little 'off-song', at the moment. Died when I parked her up the other evening & instead of doing the sensible thing & trying to re-start her straightaway & then switching off, I left her until the next day - when she, point blank, refused to start. I left her where she was & then thought I'd try about 10mins. later.........& she fired straightaway. Since then I seem to have found myself using more revs. than usual, although she's ticked over in traffic in town. ...I haven't a clue about mechanics or electrics - which may be why I suspect the condenser! The distrib. was a new(ish) item that came off eBay a few years ago. It went under the radar & cost me all of a fiver.
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...For those who might be interested, the float chamber/fuel distribution was a complete red herring! Once my pal got his multimeter out he discovered a loose wire in the distributor - tightened up, the car started first turn of the key......Sorted in less than a minute! The other day, in town, getting back into her the accelerator pedal went all loose. Nothing wrong in the footwell, but opening the bonnet showed that a 'knuckle' joint (ball & socket) had given way due to a split - they're plastic! There's 2, screwed onto a little threaded rod which forms a crucial part of the linkage. I pushed it on a few times but as soon as the throttle was activated it popped off again. Amazed they've lasted so long. Apparently the same as on the Stag - got a couple from Rimmers which hopefully, I'll fit tomorrow! The good thing is that I had been parked near a workshop & a kind chap from there gave me some wire which once used, not only got me home but survived a trip the next day, of more than 90miles!!!! Couldn't do these roadside repairs with most modern modes of transport...
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...Thanks, Pete (I think!) for that frightening & distressing list. A fair few can be ruled out, fortunately! My pal towed her into the unit yesterday teatime & once he has finished fettling a '72 Merc. 280SE 3.5 V8 that will be carrying the bride at her wedding this Saturday, he'll (hopefully) restore her to reliable running order, once again...
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...Thanks very much guys - so a sticking needle into the float chamber is enough to stop the little car firing on the starter...(First running problem in about 24k miles & since she was re-commissioned back in Autumn of 2008!) She's mounting a protest! Feels it is about time that she had some much needed TLC...
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My 1200 Herald conv. with the 1296 Dolomite engine - hence single SU, is refusing to start! The other day she was trailered down to my pro. pal who announced that she ran off a more powerful battery jump-start, ran for 45mins. & had been up & down the lane outside the unit. When I went to pick her up I started her & she then died & wouldn't start. He tapped the float chamber & she started & seemed fine. I took her 3miles & back to the supermarket & she never missed a beat. Friday, she started up then died. I took the top off the float chamber & thought the needle, or whatever, that controls the float was sticking. I sprayed WD40 through the fuel intake pipe & put it back together. Since then...nothing...have re-charged the battery & no attempt at firing. There's fuel in the chamber & when the fuel pipe was disconnected I cranked the starter & a 'gob' of fuel pumped through on maybe the second revolution. There is no fuel leak & I'm wondering if that means a breather, somewhere, is blocked?
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...Brilliant! Cheers for that! Will track one down pronto as oil change getting imminent...
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...Sorry to butt in chaps but what would the 'Mann's' reference number be for a 1300 Dolomite engine filter? 'nicmk1est' has given the number of the Wix filter equivalent.
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...Thanks, Steve, for the reply & link......'Mann' it is then as I've read the whole thread. Bit confused about which one with all this talk of adapters - the Dolly 1300 was always just a modern screw-on arrangement, I presume, so anyone know the ref.no? ...(Sorry about the double post - I thought my original together with the old thread had disappeared, hence re-posted it!)
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...I have a 1200 Herald convertible with a 1300 'Dolly' engine in (according to the engine no.). I'm due to give her the annual oil/filter change. In the past I've been given Fram filters by the local motor factors but, last year, it was a Wix' - which I've read adverse reports on. With either of those the car has always exhibited the customary 'death rattle' on start-up with the oil-light taking several seconds to go out, from cold... ...Just wondering what filters the cognoscenti recommend - there is a type with a non-return valve, or summat, isn't there?
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...Resurrecting an old thread - having done a search, this thread mentions the 'correct non-return' oil filter. Having an old 1200 Herald convertible with the 'Dolly' 1300 engine under the bonnet, I'm just wondering what the technical experts would recommend? I've used Fram in the past & the one that is on now is a 'Wix', I think, which I've not heard good reports of... ...There has always been a 'death rattle' on start-up, with the oil light taking a few seconds to go out, from cold...
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...You need to do the inside floorpan, inside the doors & bootfloor, under the backseat & spray or dribble it down every nook & cranny - not forgetting to do the underside of the rear deck (which I did - consequently it has suffered to the point of needing replacement...) It does work - but use cheap, new stuff NOT the carcinogenic, dirty, 'orrible old stuff that people slapped on in days of yore...
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...I used to get an MOT advisory for mine for about 3 or 4yrs. on the trot - & they were considerably more crozzled than the one in the pic....Only had 'em replaced last year. Never noticed any difference in the way the old gal drives....bless her!
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...Try a new fuse-holder box thingy - meantime, if it's one of them-thar things that hold up to 4 fuses etc., move the fuse up or down one obviously moving the 2 wires at either end as well...The fuse connection can get a bit iffy after so long. It might be a short-term fix.
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...Less top-end clatter...
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...1300 Dolly-engined Herald had mayonnaise in early days of me having it - daily use & regular oil-changes saw rid of it. Since covered twenty thousand or so (miles!)
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My late '64 Herald convertible (Dolomite 1300 engine) seems to have a wide rad. but has a multi-bladed plastic fan on the pulley - no electric one. There is no temp. gauge but she has never shown any tendency to overheat - even on the hottest British summer days in traffic...(My early Scimitar GTE also has just a mechanical fan & she seems to cope ok & she does have a temp. gauge that seems to work.) I do wonder whether we get paranoid about cooling & get obsessed with fitting the biggest all singing, all dancing fans out there... They've both had a loada 'gunk' in the coolant 'cos there's a coupla leaks in the rads., as well...!!
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...Thanks Bill.....Maybe that's why there is a noise, presumably meaning the bearing has given up the ghost. Due to have the whole thing changed as mentioned previously...
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....I went a bit berserk on the rear offside with the grease-gun when my Herald was up in the air at my pals unit - possibly 'cos I wasn't meeting any resistance.......It transpired that I'd filled the brake drum with grease!! So beware! Strangely she's been off the road for ages as a result of that rear wheel bearing having gone - (a graunching noise coming from that wheel, anyhow...) I bought a pair of complete driveshaft assemblies on eBay so have the necessary to get the job done. It had been changed with a new driveshaft bearing assembly, complete, 6/7yrs. ago from a well known supplier. It hasn't been neglected, but managed only about 18k miles. The other side has never required any attention!
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...Good advice, Pete. You could always put some 'Slick 50' in, Dave - or an engine 'molyslip' treatment to offset any wear at start-up. I've done 23k mileage in my Herald & religiously wait a few seconds for the oil-light to go out to stop/reduce any 'death rattle'!!
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.....Cheap supermarket 'coca-cola' for radiators the cheaper & nastier, the better.............