PhilD
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Everything posted by PhilD
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Converting standard non sealed beam headlamps to HID is not permitted under UK law, brief script is: HID is only legal if the headlight unit is correctly 'E' marked. Halogen headlight units and Xenon HID units have different 'E' marks. The only way for an HID kit to be road legal is if the whole headlight unit is replaced with one specifically designed for HID or the existing headlight unit is reassessed for compliance and assigned a new 'E' mark. As you can imagine, this is vastly inconvenient and expensive. In short, unless you take steps to do all of this then your vehicle will not be road legal. In the Department's view it is not legal to sell or use after market HID lighting kits, for converting conventional Halogen headlamps to HID Xenon. If a customer wants to convert his vehicle to Xenon HID he must purchase completely new Xenon HID headlamps. The reason for this is that the existing lens and reflector are designed around a Halogen filament bulb, working to very precise tolerances. If one places a HID "burner" (bulb) in the headlamp, the beam pattern will not be correct, there will be glare in some places and not enough light in other places within the beam pattern. - Department for Transport (2006) If you want to reead it all see attached pdf
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Hi, That looks similar to a numbering system I found on my gearbox, the latter part r210712 would seem to relate to a reconditioning date 21 July 2012
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Phil, I do not think either of those straps are correct for a Mk4 Spitfire, from memory the long one was a rootes group strap which the 2 ends holes were bolted to the floor and the centre one used to hang the exhaust. Take a look at Canleys pictures to show how it should mount, copy and paste the 2 parts of the link together for a group of illustrations. http://www.canleyclassics.com/ ?xhtml=xhtml/catalogue/spitfire1500.html&category=fuelandexhaust&xsl=catalogue.xsl
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Thanks I will try Chic Doig as I have looked at all the others web sites and they list the Spitfire with a note saying modification is required
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Hi John, The conversion kits are still available, Moss do them (http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop/viewproducts.aspx?plateindexID=18546) and I think Jigsaw racing also offer them, when using the conversion bracket kit you use late MK3 shocks or uprated options. I have used this kit (it came with the bits in the project I bought) I am told it improves over the standard roto setup.
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Does anyone know who still supplies the rear wing for a GT6 Mk3 with the fuel filler cut out hole?
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Brett, If you do not intend to use the chassis then any GT6 or spitfire will do as a mount, but if you want to mount the bonnet as well to check alignment etc then you need to stay away from GT6 Mk3 and Spitfire Mk4 as the bonnet mounts are different. As for the welder why are you looking at a 190amp? I use a 140 with Argon and that melts car body panels easy if you are not careful and will happily weld 3mm box beams so the 190 is a bit of an expense if you are not intending to weld RSJ's. The Sealey supermig140 cost around £210 delivered but you will have to buy the adaptor pipe and bottle gauge as the disposable cans last only minuets.
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Hi, this is how the GT6 glove boxes go together, which I am sure are the same as the Mk4 Spitfire
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Hi, Yes the conversion kits are still available, Moss do them (http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop/viewproducts.aspx?plateindexID=18546) and I think Jigsaw racing also offer them, when using the conversion bracket kit you use late MK3 shocks or uprated options. I have used this kit (it came with the bits in the project I bought) I am told it improves over the standard roto setup. Most replacement wheel arches do not come with the shock mount or the seat belt anchor point either
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Bruce, While I have not done this myself I have read a number of threads that confirm it works most of the time, that is to pump the brake pedal until firm then wedge it with a suitable piece of wood in the depressed state and leave overnight, it would appear to be something to do with new fluid and master cylinders drawing fluid back. worth a try!
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On checking the Comma web site it is a mineral oil, also Comma is a sub brand of Mobil so the products are of a reasonable quality.
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I have done this a few weeks back also, I routed mine behind the coil and then up to the back of the thermostat housing and in front of the rocker cover although the original route is in front, also used a mini pipe bender I had bought a couple of years ago, these are available for around £6 on EBay delivered, better quality can be bought from plumbers merchants if you are going to do lots of pipework.
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My GT6 is a 1971 model, the fuel outlet looks like this
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The speedo that came with it shows 19k so it would seem it has been around once or replaced, as the project came dismantled I can only confirm the originality of the chassis and engine as the numbers match the heritage certificate I purchased. The car seems to have had multiple owners who have dismantled different bits of it. I would believe the oil ways in the head are in a reasonable state as the flow rate via the back port is good, does the oil ways in the block suffer on these engines?
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My original decision was not to use the external feed based on various posts but to suffer the loss of a new shaft and a number of new rockers caused me to re think that decision, I agree the flow rate now is probably steeling supply from the crank so I would be interested in a solution that achieves a happy medium between the two. Based on the state of the old shaft and rockers the flow could do with a slight improvement.
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Problem found and sorted, spinning the engine over with no rockers and only the shaft and feed pedestal it took almost a minuet for oil to start to drip from the shaft and quite a while to get to the front of it. Fitting the external feed pipe delivers oil in 10-15 seconds and it runs not drips!
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Has anyone come across problems when fitting new rocker shaft and rockers on MK3 GT6? Having stripped and rebuilt the engine (early 1971 model) there was significant wear on the lobes and shaft so replacement was needed, I checked the oil pump and the clearances were in line with the manual so was not replaced. All parts were well lubricated on assembly and the engine was spun until oil light went out before starting it was run for about 5 mins but seamed to have dropped a cylinder or more. On stripping the top to check there was a lot of condensation, a seized rocker and a couple of partially seized yet a reasonable amount of oil around the shaft.