yorkshire_spam

That's great news @Dannyb! Before stiffening/lowering the front of our Spitfire it was pretty skittish and frightening at autobahn speeds - the change was a similar positive experience to what you describe and being able to throw the car into the bends with confidence made it great fun to drive.

I run TT4301 that I got from Moss in 2017 (I think). I found they were slightly too low as standard and added spacers. Moss describe them as "Road Spring Set, front, fast road uprated 330lbs, lowered, silicon chrome, pair" (For P/N TT4301PR) They give great handling and a sporty ride, but for "pootling" about they are a tad low and a tad harsh.

Albion Reiver! 🙂

Although it's about a classic truck, not a car I think this fits the bill nicely as an event theme song:

Just been looking back at photos of previous years, 2015 was our first in the Spitfire (engine failure on day 2) then missed a couple, did 2018 and 2019 with the kids in the Dolomite. Then 2021 was the first successful run in the Spitfire. Last year, back in the Dolomite and this year a partially successful run for the Spitfire.

That folder takes a bit of finding! Here's a link! https://www.clubtriumph.co.uk/gallery/category/36-2023/

Despite our troubles on Sunday, another great event. I still think it's the best over-all event on the CT calendar. Great to see familiar faces as well as those new to the event. Once again many thanks to @reychris, @Velocita Rosso and @Mik for such a well organised event. Hopefully some of the great photos on social media will find their way onto the forum.

Thanks for the offer Mike, I sourced one from Matt Lewis Racing when it happened. As I say it still held pressure and worked fine, I carried on driving it until the replacement arrived and I swapped them over at the weekend.

I'm a big fan of having a whinge when things go wrong with suppliers... but today it's praise where it's due. I didn't fancy butchering the loom or re-soldering connections when it came to replacing the ignition switch on Binny (early Dolomite with 4 pin potted connector) but struggled to find the right early part (216864 Ignition Switch 1850 to WF26607 ) As a last ditch I dropped Mick Dolphin an email and lo-and-behold he has them in stock! I enquired on Thursday, paid on Friday and the parts arrived this morning - great parts and great service! He might not have a fancy website, but well worth trying if you are looking for hard to find parts: http://www.mickdolphin.co.uk/frontpage.htm Support your smaller Triumph/Classic suppliers! (I'm a fan of Paddocks, Fitchetts, Canleys, Robsport etc.) Cheers, Sam

The Spitfire slipped off the jack and landed on the oil cooler... it still worked and held oil pressure!

Park Lane stuff is top notch, worth every penny.

Late 1500 spec numberplate lights? Single piece light used on MK IV and "early" 1500s? 2 "booble" lights on later 1500s? Or am I talking twaddle once again?

They are a snake-oil performance/unleaded/miracle cure for whatever they can persuade you might be wrong with putting fuel in your classic car. See the many adverts on eBay etc. like this: Here be snake-oil

Ref engine oil. It really depends on how you use the car/engine. The 1500 engine is prone to working the oil very hard if used "enthusiastically" by getting it quite hot. If you intend to use the car on long distance runs/events or climbing (for example) mountain passes then seriously consider investing in both an oil cooler AND spending more on the oil (Penrite 20/60, Millers CSS 20w-60, Valvoline VR1 20w-50 etc.) On the other hand if the car/engine will get "light use" any branded 20w-50 will be perfectly fine! PS. Rimmers=supplier of last resort! Support the smaller Triumph suppliers like Canleys, James Paddock, Fitchetts etc.!

https://burlen.co.uk/ Assuming it's a single SU - Burlen every time. I'd only use Rimmers as a last resort if all the other suppliers/clubs can't help.

The time I had a very similar issue on my Spitfire 1500 I had the plug leads in the wrong order. I'd got the right firing order 1-3-4-2, but went the WRONG WAY round the dizzy cap... (Rotor arms goes counter clockwise, I had the leads in clockwise) The effect of this is that it runs on 1 and 4 (correct timing) but mis-fires on 2 and 3 (both 180 deg out)

I suspect it's an age thing, but at my age not a good sign.

My Dolomite has the @trackerjack front brakes. I spotted a pair of Sierra calipers for sale cheap on Facebook Marketplace and thought "oooh I could buy those, refurbish them, new seals, pistons etc. and then if I ever need spares I already have a set ready to go". So I bought them, went to put them on the shelf in the garage where I keep that sort of parts.... moved a cardboard box to get them on the shelf, out of curiosity opened the box, and found an identical set of calipers I bought 18 months before that which I'd clearly forgotten about.

Well on the numbers it's Olaf's turn to try and catch up with Marmite? On the other hand I guess it depends on what you and the crew want in terms of space/comfort!

Sad News! Some consolation!

Canleys, James Paddock, Moss Europe mostly for me.

That's great info @standardthread haven't seen it explained/pictured so clearly before.

To be honest @J J I can never remember the "rules" so I just turn it over by hand in the right direction and watch for the inlet on #1 closing and then the next tdc on the crank is the firing datum.

Just the usual stuff: Check firing order vs dizzy direction of rotation Something down the bore in #1 to check the TDC marker on the pulley Rocker cover off and check that #1 is firing on the correct stroke (check it's not 180 out)

Engine and box going back in the Dolomite: