yorkshire_spam

If you get a click and it doesn't turn the engine (having eliminated the earths) then I'd say solenoid/starter are the suspects. What you do next kinda depends on your comfort levels in terms of mechanic-ing. I think the TR7 has a similar (same?) starter as the Dolomite 1850 I have? Something like this? Stripping them down and changing the contacts in the solenoid cap is non-trivial but definitely a "DIY-possible" job. It does involve soldering though! If you aren't comfortable with that then you are looking for somebody to do it for you or an exchange starter (very costly from what I understand!) The solenoid caps with contacts etc can be bought new and last time I got some they were about 6 quid a piece.

As @Howard says - start with the earths first. After that I'd be checking the solenoid.

I'd really love to do the event, I've wanted to for years, but the timing never seems to line up. 😞

Sadly skipped this yesterday - no takers

Yeah, annoying but not a massive deal. What makes it that little bit more annoying is I think that's the pump I bought new when I built the engine a few years ago. Swapped it for one of my used "known good" spares.

Manifold gone, diff still here (for now) if anyone wants it.

Replacement BW65 autobox for Binny the 1850 Dolomite has arrived! Sadly I'm away this weekend, so the refit will have to start in the evening next week.

Just passing on information... whether you chose to act on it or not entirely up to you! I've just received the reconditioned bw65 to get Binny our 1850 Auto back on the road. As I've spent a small fortune on it I wanted to be 100% sure that any warranty would be honored etc. so checked with the company what ATF they recommend. They list: Smith and Alan ATF Ford Type F Transmission Fluid Westway Lubricants Ford Type G ATF Transmission Fluid Penrite 10TENTHS ATF33 Auto Trans Fluid Type F I specifically asked them about the Comma AQF I've previously used and they stated that the newer supplies from Comma no longer show the required certification, it just states "Suitable for older vehicles". The "old stock" bottles have the correct "Ford spec M2C-33G / F" stated on them. They've followed this up with Comma but can't get a commitment that the AQF still meets M2C-33G / F, so they no longer recommend it to customers. I'll be playing it over-cautious/safe and using Smith and Alan as recommended. I seriously doubt that Comma AQF is no-longer suitable (the reconditioner suspects they've simply stopped paying to have the M2C-33G / F spec certified) but I leave it up to any of you with automatic cars to make up your own minds. Cheers, Sam

High ambition Jim! I'll settle for making it to the start, everything after that counts as a bonus! 😉

Spitfire for us this time too Mike, as a shake down for the RBRR.

Looking nice!

Lifted the bonnet after yesterday's little run out... looks like the water pump is leaking. 😞 Will tackle that job and a couple of others tonight with luck.

218142 Cylinder head Originally from a 1300 (Late MK IV Spitfire). Gives 9.0:1 CR on a 1300 or 10.2:1 on a 1500 (See: http://auskellian.com/paul/links_files/performance_enhancements.htm#Raise_the_Compression_Ratio) Larger inlet valve - good head to base a "fast road" spec engine on. (I run 10.2:1 CR on my 1500 engine on 98 RON E5 without issues) £80 collected from Halifax West Yorks. Can be posted at cost - message me for a quote. Second head... 515573 1300/Herald 13/60 Head Smaller valves/lower compression head, see link above for more details £30 collected from Halifax West Yorks. Can be posted at cost - message me for a quote.

Fingers crossed it's sorted @Dannyb!

Not cheap, but I sent them an old Lucas dizzy and what I got back was a good as new Lucas dizzy with the curve adjusted to my engine - quality was top notch. I hear mixed reviews of the quality of the new replacements, which is why I went for a refurb on an original.

Might be worth having a chat with https://www.facebook.com/HHignitionsolutions H & H ignition solutions? They rebuilt my Lucas dizzy to a high standard. If they also do Delco - that should eliminate any dizzy faults.

Hi Julian, dizzy body shouldn't wobble when clamped - I think 1 step at a time and try and sort that out before chasing electrical gremlins. Has anything changed since the car was running well? I assume you are on points+condensor not an electronic replacement?

Also... 3.89:1 ratio diff - missing one output shaft, would need strip/rebuild but useful for parts or as core exchange? Free to anyone willing to collect.

Looking good!

Depending on traffic I'll probably get there about 7pm.

Oh that's bad luck @Dannyb, I hope you get it sorted soon so you can enjoy the engine with the new cam!

exhaust manifold and downpipe rusty but usable, free to anyone who collects it

That's really unlucky, but better you find and repair it than the whole car disintegrates without warning on the road! (Trying to find a silver lining for you!)

Consensus seems to be "early herald" 948/1200, early water pump housing without the boss/tapings for temp sender or manifold hose. Free to anyone who collects or cost of postage if you want it sending to you.

Another method I've used is either a known good TR or a beam deflection type (less likely to go out of cal.) linked together with one held in the vice - pull and make sure you get the same readings / click matches the deflection reading.