toolmaker
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Everything posted by toolmaker
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hi, i have new fuel pipe haging in the garage, and i checked it its 1/2 unf thread.
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hi, not much work being done with this cold weather, however when i was clamping up for welding, i decided while access was good to replace the door fixing plates behind the A post upper panel. i read a few times that these plates strip the threads. rather than open them out i made new ones, these are 6mm plate as opposed to 3/16 as origonal. infact my origonal plates were ok, but i decided to put new ones anyway. they are just held in place by 2 tabs bent up behind the plates. i could just get in to bend back the lower tabs and take the plates out. the top one is a bit of a waggle to get out but straightforward enough. as the new plates were slightly thicker, i angle ground a chamfer on the back to assist the tabs on replacement. the new ones simply slot into place then rebend the tabs up. if you do ever decide to open these up if yours are stripped, say to 10mm. i would use a fine pitch thread and bolts to match as the plates are not really thick enough for an m10 standard thread. m10 fine thread have a 1.0mm pitch. alternatively if you take them out, you can turn them round 180 and re drill and tap 5/16 unf marking them off from the existing holes. -7 up here last few mornings and i dont fancy lying down and welding in that,hopefully next week will be better.
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if you buy a welder with a 3m earth lead, you can do both smithy.
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note, the heelboard closing panel still needs trimming at the top, it will be flush when finished.
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hi, went to weld all yesterday, only to find i had stupidly painted the wrong side of the inner sill strengthner. punched all the holes in today and clamped up ready to weld in next time i am off.
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a good welder does`nt flinch just sizzles ha ha now just waiting paint to dry before completly welding in the floor and sills.
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hello rr, no puncture for 29 years! thats what i call luck. we have had 2 in a week before. i know some new cars have no spare and a bottle of that gas/ foam stuff. but tyre places wont fix your tyre if you use it, not round here anyway.you have to buy a new tyre. a lot of the lads at work buy a spare wheel to carry. i am old fashioned and like the spare.
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hello RR, i have a home made bench folder, it works quite well, but the rest is all hand made. i will use the spare, i would`nt use that foam stuff if you paid me.
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on the both sides there is whats called a bulkhead strengthning mounting bracket. this is a 2mm thick piece of steel, the one on my drivers side had been half cut off and welded onto various bodged repairs in the past. i had a spare passenger one which was ok, so i mirror imaged it and using a bit of heat, anvil and hammer made up the missing one, the home made one is in primer. not exactly identical but it fits spot on. last bit and your all up to date, the car had had a new boot floor put in some time ago, and quite a good job too i have to say. however the spare wheel mounting bracket went out with the old boot floor. i managed to get a sized up sketch of one from mr john bonnett on this very form, and made one up. the round piece on top is just a round hand wheel to clamp the wheel in place. At present, i have now trimmed up the new floor and am waiting for primer to dry before welding fully in. Thats the next job.
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i am not sure what you call this part of the car, its where the rear seat would go i guess , anyway this floor corner was pretty thin so i cut it out and made a new piece, this will be welded in after the heelboard part is finished.
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Hello all, bringing you all up to date, this is as far as ive got so far on the restoration. the seat belt mount on the wheelhouse had started to rot through. this is spot welded on, and the big spot welds had coroded over time. i cut out a big hole and managed to cold form a piece of 1.2mm plate to the shape you can see in the pic. i drilled a clearance hole in the middle and welded it all round on the wheelhouse. the seat belt mount was re-usable so i just cleaned that up and welded it back in under the wheelhouse. now its really strong again.
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yes i seem to remember its a cycle thread, thats what i meant about a die.
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hi, if its the same as a mk4 spit or gt6 one then its 9/16 dia. 26 tpi (threads per inch) dont know where you will get a die from though.
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more pics
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the bottom of the rear wing needed a repair as there were a few pin holes. it was fairly straight forward to make up, i know you can buy a repair panel for this but i didnt need to go so far up, and i dont like to spend money then cut a lot out of the repair panel or car. pics are of the bottom of the wing when cut out, then the repair piece and closing panel. again this closing panel looks simple but it took about 4 goes to get it right.
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more pics
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hi, and i wish you all a happy new year. the bulk head at the front needed repairs. the top part where the wiper motor fits was a bit frilly. and holed where the sill wraps around, also a poor repair had been done before where the bulkhead meets the floor, so i cut this out and made up some repair sections. the top section came out well first go, but the bottom one took a few attemps before i was happy with it. first pic is of what i cut out under where the wiper motor would fit. next three pics are the repair made and tack welded in place. following pic is the repair to the bulkhead/floor piece, this is yet to be welded in.
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drip rail from front
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hi, the front windscreen drip rail had rotted out at the bottom, i decided to renew the whole piece here. first pic is the back of the panel where it has been cut off. you have to be carefull here as it would be easy to cut through the windscreen pillar which is in good condition.there is a cable running down here also which must be an earth as it goes to the roof. its an easy piece to make as its virtually a right angled piece. second picture is the new section welded in place. i just pulse welded all the wayup to avoid heat distortion. behind this new piece fits the actual drip rail. it rots out because the water gets between the 2 sections and rusts away. i have here the new piece held by a clamp at the minute, i am un -decided wheather to plug weld it in or just glue it or self tap so it can be datatchable to clean.
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yes, interesting that richard, as you say its a good idea. notice the origonal other side there is no hole, probably why it rots more in the first place. i put a hole where i have marked it in red.
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before and after
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and another
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pictures continued
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hi, moving on to the heelboard, this is what i found there. chopped out the heelboard closing panel and the box section behind wasnt much better. i cut this out and made up a new section. this was the same size as i cut out. this was initially held with a couple of tacks and made sure it butted up to the b post panel behind the inner sill. when i was happy with this, i made up a new heelboard closing panel. this will be marked and drilled where the box section flange meets it, and plug welded to that.and obviously the floor etc. i am in the process of making and fitting all the repairs before welding them all in together.
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thats sounds like the same one i used, its blue with red inside and like you say too long you have to cut it, but the angle is right and its about £10 cheaper than the tssc.