toolmaker
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hello all, well after a long time of not keeping up the resto on here, here is some more. work has been continuing all the time as family and work allow. at present, the welding is almost complete, the following is the passenger side being reconstructed in pictures, the drivers side just need the outer sill on which will be done in the next fortnight, then its body off and put it on its side to catch the new panels with weld underneath. however i realize i am running out of space, so the body off bit will have to wait, i am hoping to put a bigger garage at the other side of my house, this will give me the space i need to finish. the following is the story of the passenger side, it became more difficult than i at first thought as when i got into it i realized the apost upper panel was no good. you can buy a new panel, but you dont get the gubbins thats behind it, so this has to be carefully cut out and welded back onto the new panel. initialy when doing the a post, i lost the door gap, but managed to get this back with the box section that i cut and wedged in from the heelboard to the screen pillar. i judged this gap was ok when the windscreen glass fitted just right .
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hi, .8mm wire will be ok, i just prefer .6 as you can use less amps, but its nit picking really. i must add that the repair panels i have been buying are 1.0mm thick, and the old triumph steel i am welding to is good thick stuff . good luck.
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hi, as in all cars different panels are different thicknesses, but you are right welding too thick a repair panel to a thinner one is not good practice. if you use .8mm thick steel (.032") you wont be far wrong, the various panels are round a bout this. i use this all the time, with .6 mig wire its spot on. hope it helps. ian.
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cheers richard, but thats the whole point i want to do it myself . i have already had great success with changing the rev counter over from cable to electronic at very low cost compared to what these guys charge.
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thanks all who replied, so heres a question thrown in for you, if the speedo gearing is in the gearbox, would it then be possible to fit say a spitfire or dolomite speedo to a gt6 with the gt6 face on it, and retain the later trip meter push button as oposed to the cable? get your thinking caps on chaps. cheers, ian.
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thanks for that again clifty, its just the mind wondering, i will research further.
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thanks, reason i asked is if i fitted a 3.63 to my gt6, wondered if a dolomite or spit speedo would be ok , i would just change the face of the speedo to the gt6 one.
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hi, anyone on here know what size diffs were fitted to dolomites? cheers. ian
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hello rob, like the other guys say, it will be poor connections, you will have to work through it. i am on rebuilding a gt6 mk3, and doing a full upgrade rewire on it. for me it was a daunting task, but as i researched it and got help from a friend and a couple of sparkies at work it became clearer. i broke everything down into single circuits and with help drew up and understood the wiring diagrammes for the various circuits. i bought new wiring of the correct colour codes and amperage for each circuit and blade fuse boxes, relays from ebay from various cars. i have not got round to finishing it yet, but the couple i have tried out worked ok. i was advised to weld, bolt various studs to the chasis body for earth points and take each circuit to those various earth points then back to the battery. instead of being wary, i am looking forward to finishing this part of the rebuild, plus i have learned a lot about electrics which before i knew nothing. it all depends on the time you have rob and how long you want to be off the road. good luck and keep us informed. pics please. ian.
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hi nang, i need to go electric tach because the lucas distributor doesnt have a mechanical tach offtake. i want to change because my delco dizzy looks about dead.
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hi, anyone offer any advice on which is the better electronic ignition system for a standard engine mk3 gt6? i have been looking at either powerspark or accuspark systems, i know i will need to change the tach to electric but i dont mind that. i dont want to go for the 123 set up as i think its to expensive . so which one is best swings and roundabouts? i must say that on the cars i have had over the years, the delco remy fitted to my gt6 looks a dodgy looking distributor . so i am happy to change it. the lucas distributors look better. all advice welcome. thanks. ian.
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hi john, the tabs can be bent up easy enough i can get a driver in there to do it ok, i replaced mine on the drivers side with this method. the passenger ones came with new plates fitted, but i removed them to grind the chamfer on. they are easily bent with the fingers. i will be coming to dorset in the summer but the welder wont be with me, and the skills are not good without the tools, anyway you dont need me you are doing a fantastic job with the special;.
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hi john, the tabs can be bent up easy enough i can get a driver in there to do it ok, i replaced mine on the drivers side with this method. the passenger ones came with new plates fitted, but i removed them to grind the chamfer on. they are easily bent with the fingers. i will be coming to dorset in the summer but the welder wont be with me, and the skills are not good without the tools, anyway you dont need me you are doing a fantastic job with the special;.
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hi again, you can get better access to the tabs from the hole above where the door stay is shown here on my replacement panel
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hi again, you can get better access to the tabs from the hole above where the door stay is shown here on my replacement panel
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hi rubce, you can get through the hole in the inner panel and bend the tab with a screwdriver and get it out, i did mine drivers side. i made some new ones, but i guess you could open the holes to 3/8 unf if stripped, i would use that thread or 10mm fine pitch as standard threads will strip easier. also a good tip is to file or grind a big chamfer on the back where the tabs keep it in place, gives a little bit more adjustment. persevere and you can get it out .
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hi rubce, you can get through the hole in the inner panel and bend the tab with a screwdriver and get it out, i did mine drivers side. i made some new ones, but i guess you could open the holes to 3/8 unf if stripped, i would use that thread or 10mm fine pitch as standard threads will strip easier. also a good tip is to file or grind a big chamfer on the back where the tabs keep it in place, gives a little bit more adjustment. persevere and you can get it out .
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pics continued
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continued
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hi, its been a while since i posted, but the work has been going on relentlessly. i got the drivers side finished. here are a good few pics, everything was more or less straight forward but the heelboard box section took some figuring out and i seemed to take ages over that. pic 1 floor and sill tack welded in. pic 2 the bulkhead patched and welded. pic 3 the door to sill gap, i have not fitted the outer sills yet, this is just held by hand to see what the gap looked like. pic 4 a-post inner pic 5 heelboard pic 6 back of the heelboard showing the sill closing panel pic 7 heel board box section pic 8 heelboard welded in pic 9 welding complete.