toolmaker
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Everything posted by toolmaker
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what studs were those then?
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hi hazen, i also have missing loose wheel studs on my car front and rear, i have some new studs, be interested to see how you put them in, have`nt thought about that yet. my clamp plates on the crossmembers had stripped there threads, so i opened mine out to 3/8 unf . stronger job. ian.
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all the best for the family, you`ll need a rear seat conversion now!!!!
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thanks i got you, again i`ll have a look when i take the shell off. but on initial looks it seems fine. thanks for pointing that out anyway i will definately look at it.
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hi ken, looks to me like its ok, you need to lift the spring higher to fit the bolt, then when its fastened up the force of the spring will push the whole lot down.
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gearbox surround
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thanks for that advice, i just took these pics, it doesnt look bad. but i know the gearbox bellhousing surround needs repair but i cant get to it until i remove the shell from the chasis. then i can cut that out and make a nice repair panel.
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http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1367750163/s-0/ hi, this is where i got the idea from, again when you look at the % figures the peugeot to me is the way to go. my concern was that the cooling fans would be at the front interupting airflow, but according to experienced people on here it makes no difference. so i am going that way, already have the rad and fans.
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hi byakko, i am no purist, intend fitting peugeot 205 gti aluminium radiator, upgrade wiring to include relays, electric fuel pump and mazda seats, my seats are goosed so thats the way i am going. the rest of the mechanics to me makes sense as it will improve the car. i guess as an engineer thats what important for me. the origonal interior is black and the carpets etc are servicable so i will be keeping that colour although i will be using new door cards etc. and the headlining will be new. the mazda seats i have are from a mk1 mx5 and they are black so will look ok. i am hoping to paint the car myself basically to save money, plus its another skill learnt but thats in the distance. i dont have any intention to sell it. apart from little things i think my next job is body shell off the chasis for finishing the floor and painting underneath. but i am fighting for space at the minute.
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have you run new wires through and tried that? maybe a broken wire fault.
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that looks nice, i will be splitting mine eventually to polybush it. my car is meant to be pimento, but i am now thinking of white. think i will like that better. ian.
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forgot the pic
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hi, i just done my calipers, are your pistons free? mine were solid, if yours are the same, keep the caliper together and heat them to get them out, i put mine in a vice, heated one side up and knocked the piston out with a screwdriver and hammer, one wouldnt budge and i got that one by splitting the caliper and welding a nut on the inside of the piston and removed it with a slide hammer. i split both calipers, cleaned them all up and lightly ground the mating faces to make sure they were flat, be carefull and keep the small sealing rubbers when you split the calipers. then paint and re assemble with new pistons, seals and white brake grease. when putting the calipers back together i used loctite on the bolts. saved just over £100. how much are kids these days i have two ha ha ha .
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hi byakko, bonnet repairs are crucial, my car came with a fibre glass bonnet, i was going to save up for a steel one, over here about £1100, but i got advice from a member who had fitted a new bonnet and said he had so much hassle with it he wished he had just repaired the old one. i have now got a good steel 2nd hand one but i know its come off a gt6 and will fit, still needs some inner repairs but i`ll get round to that later. talking of stress cracks, i found some on my rear wheel arches, i cut them out and welded in new material. but to me they are cause by vibration, now wheather in my case the diff was shaking the car to bits or what i dont know, but i think these body types in general just being bolted to the chasis will suffer from stress cracks. i suppose now when the cars are finished, the limited use wont matter so much. also of course the steel is 40 years old. enjoying the build, look forward to the next bit. ian.
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hi byakko, ha ha , was it "the house that broke me" u.k you tube hadnt loaded it, but i searched the net and put 2+2 together, its not that bad, now does he do a song "the gt6 that broke me" maybe nearer the point. ha ha ha.
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thanks john, the door gaps for me was a worry with virtually all the bottom end being renewed. of course the repair panels are a god send, but not always a perfect fit. and this shows up most in the gaps achieved. i had to fiddle quite a bit with the drivers side but am very happy with it. passenger side, the b post rad round the door bottom was too big and i had to run a bead of weld round the rear wing repair panel and grind it to give the correct gap. the gap is good but the top 5" the gap widens out a couple of mm and i cant adjust the door to even it up. so i think another bead of weld may be necessary here. bar that the majority of the welding for the shell is complete and i can move on to the next phase. things will slow down again as wife and daughters are back from seeing her parents on the other side of the world tomorrow. better start cleaning the house up. ha ha .
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hello mackro, i have never done it, but i think the electric part of the switch comes off the back of the ignition switch itself, think its held in with a tiny allen screw. you can replace this part and so keep the lock and your key.
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hello, really enjoying your rebuild, your build is very like my own series 3 rebuild jde451l, dont know if youve read it. its good fun making all the various bits and pieces, saves cash too. really impressed with your work, keep up the good work and pics, i too made my own folder pic on here somewhere. i am off to finish my drivers side sill outer today. regards. ian.
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hi brendan, been reading your thread with interest, i have heard in the past that the italian pumps are not so good. one is fitted to my gt6, although i have not fired it up yet. the huco pump that chris suggests looks the boy for the job, i am not one for origonality so its one of them for me. just had a look they are about £55. hope you can sort it out brendan.
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hi jens, i think the sills are ok, they are probably as your cross section sketch shows. the pics enclosed are of an origonal spitfire with perfect door gaps, i have hundreds of gt6 and spitfire pictures of more or less everything i use for reference. my passenger side was ok, the drivers side i did have to add 1/2" of steel to the bottom of the inner sill for the sill to weld to. this would kind of prove out your sketch if you get my meaning. i am pretty sure they are correct.
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last 2 pics
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hi, got the car on its rollers and shoved it over to the other side to put the drivers side sill on. at the minute i have had it set with clamps, took a fiddle to get it best as i could, tomorrow i will weld it on as now i am waiting for the inside paint to dry. first picture you can see the new door hinge captive plates in place, you dont even have to use all the bolts to clamp the door up, much stronger i think. the following pictures try to show the panel gaps achieved, i am pretty happy with them considering the car has a whole new floor and inner and outer sills, and rear wing repair panels, the doors i will be using are much better than the gt6 origonals, they are from different spitfires.
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hi, any of you had this trouble? when trial fitting my doors, the origonal hinge catch plates were stripped, now i made new ones from 6mm plate with the holes kept at 5/16 unf,(not pictured here) they were fine when using an empty shell door, but when i fitted the full gt6 door even when the bolts were tight the door would drop maybe about a mm with the weight. so i made these up which are 6mm plate with m10 nuts welded in, you have to chamfer the back so that the little tabs will fold round the slightly extra thickness, i just used cap head bolts and the difference is much stronger. i also found it much easier to tighten up the bolts with an allen key. they are heavy doors the gt6 door and i think this is a stronger set up. you could argue that the 6mm plate could just be drilled and tapped 10mm but the nuts give that extra length for the bolts. next week drivers sill commences. ian.
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thankyou for your kind comments, sometimes when i see some of the absolutely mint bodies going for paint i think how did they get that like that without spending mega bucks. i use bought panels only if i cant make them, so its a mix and match. end of the day it will be a very sound gt6. i take it bit by bit, after the body is finished then i will think what next, over the last 2.5 years i have i think collected everything i need and more to complete the car. as far as i know, i need 4 tyres, a headlining and electronic ignition although i intend to fire it up on points first. of course i am hoping the engine and box are ok, but i am not that far ahead yet. i have receipts for a new crank and shells 1000 miles ago so heres hoping. the box also has many wiring receipts for the overdrive so i am hoping mechanically ok. we will see. i intend to modernise where possible, ie. wiring upgraded to relays etc. peugeot 205 radiator and electric fans (in stock), and polybushes all round. need the polybushes also. as my seats are not great and i am 5`8" i am going to fit mx5 seats, also in stock. its all in the mind unfolding every day. but i`ll get there. thanks again for the comments. ian.
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and here are my rebuilt brake calipers with new pistons and seals, ready to fit. next job move car over and fit and weld drivers sill.