FGRob
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3141 wrote: Looks really nice. Having just gone through the exercise myself I know how much time and trouble you have taken to achieve such an impressive result. And the clamps do add class to the job. In fact I've been really impressed with all the photos that have been posted. Yep they can take a lot of time but for sure the results are worth it. My Spit is back in storage now and won't be out again for the next 12 months as I've started a new project. It's a chassis based vehicle again but a little older and a lot more basic. ;) I also have a 1/2" lowering block on the rear spring but also fitted Gaz adjustable shocks all road, the front being height adjustable as well, which allowed me to balance the car up ride height wise really well. For sure there are some great photo's on this site, as these cars love having their pictures taken 8) 8)
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This is what I've got fitted, I did use Mikalor as they are far better than the standard clamps you get, clearance is good although a bit on the loud side 8) Hope this helps
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8940 wrote:hi ...thanks for all the replies ;) ...but i'm going to disagree with some of youir comments ....i think you are all being a bit over the top... i believe that any competant police officer , MOT tester would quite understand the situation (old/classic car) and if matters were to go further i'm sure the triumph Auto clubs would come to assist in my or for that case any body else's defence ..i for one will be leaving the plate where it is and today i've even high lighted it by spraying it gold 8) Get yourself over to the Land Rover series 2 forum - then you will understand the problems that are created by conflicting numbers, I'm putting a new chassis on my SWB and that opens up a complete bag of worms you would not believe - best advice given is to remove any problems and say nothing.
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Long shaft MK IV had headrest fitted - I've got them in mine.
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I had the same issue with one of my rockers, even though I had put a new shaft, cam and followers in, I got the bottom of it in the end, it was the actual rocker that had worn on the shaft so it was always going to knock, I did have a small issue with a groove on the tip as well. I replaced the whole lot with roller rockers and put a new up-rated shaft is as well, runs like a Swiss watch now, plus I get the added bonus of extra lift on the valve. The replacement rockers which are current sold come from India - need I say more, unless you can get original ones of course, that's the main reason I changed. Not every ones cup of tea, but it solves a problem which had been bugging me for the past 5 years.
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4526 wrote: Any pic's ? :P As said - great quality and fit - yes they are complete.
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I have a spare manifold with new studs fitted, you can have it for £30 plus postage - I'll take some photo's if you are interested, Forgot to add it's from a MKIV 1300 cc engine - colour is red (high temp paint) Rob.
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If you go the K&N route don't forget to get some stub stacks - it will help air flow into the carbs, here's a link to Rimmer's site but I brought mine of Fleabay http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RL1396
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ferny wrote:AAT or ATB should do you, but unless your car has flat spots when you accelerate then you probably won't need them. Do your pancakes have cold air going to them? Are they the restrictive skinny ones? A yes and a no in that order will make a big difference to performance. Also, fitting firmer springs (forget which it is, red or yellow) can help as well. Yellow is stiffer on the HS2
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7378 wrote:Here's some pic's of the set-up I have, defo two yellow and white wires but not sure about the other one, anyone else have this set-up?? Eventually I've sorted this, the wire mentioned above is pink and white which is a ballest wire as suggested, interest that is also spliced in a similar manner near to the ignition switch but again pulled out of the loom making it easier to disconnect. I've fitted a complete new blade type fuse board (kept the original on the outside as a dummy) and run a dedicated 12v supply to the coil from the ignition, on top of that I've replaced the coil with a Lucas Sports Coil 12v x 3.0 ohm and fitted a Accuspark electronic ingition, fired up first time, certainly feels a lot better, just need to set the carbs now and she will be good to go. 8)
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Here's a shot of the solenoid & coil:
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Here's some pick of the set-up I havem defo two yellow and white wires but not sure about the other one, anyone else have this set-up??
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bhuffer wrote:Have you not got a wiring diagram? That would tell you what colour wires you should have which would be a good starting point. This might help http://www.triumphspitfire.com/images/wiring/MKIVwire.jpg From this the white is the ballast resistor wire nb it is built into the wire not a separate component as in older models and white yellow is the 12 volt from the solenoid. Hi Barry. Yes got a Haynes manual, the diagram you have referenced is identical to the Haynes one, which shows an external ballast resistor fed by the white wire, I've got the white wire with no resistor which is connected to both the coil and relay terminals (yellow & white wires) I think you are right though if this is a direct feed from the ignition switch I need to change the coil from a 12v 1.5 Ohm to a 12V 3.0 Ohm. I'll still take a pic tonight to show this connection. Thanks again. Rob
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piman wrote:Hello Rob, it sounds like a resistance wire rather than a separate resistor. Unless your points are closed you'll read battery voltage with or without a ballast, there must be current flow before the voltage is dropped. Alec PS, I just realised you said a battery voltage of 14.8 which means the engine is running, or your voltmeter is inaccurate? Hi Alec No the engine wasn't running and the charger was disconnected, so I did check the voltage across the battery which shocked me - the voltmeter is not that old so I hope it' not knackered. What colour would the wire be if it was a resistance wire, my car was a little unusual as it went to Germany and had some wiring mods, it was brought back into the UK in 74 hence it being a M plate. Rob.
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Cheers guys for the response. I had another look at the wiring last night, I'm even more confused now, I have three wires which come out of the loom just before the coil / solenoid, the colours look to be 2 x white & Yellow and one white, they are joined by what looks to be a factory connection, certainly not one I've put in. Checking the voltage, they all read the same around voltage - 14.6 v which is the battery voltage, looking at it I wondering if someone has removed the ballast resistor and basically by-passed it with this connection. I'll take a photo of it tonight so you can see what I mean, if the white wire is the feed from the ingition switch than it looks like I might need to change the coil to a 3 ohm coil as there is no ballast resistor fitted seperately of within the loom - I think :-/ Rob.